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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 14, 2011 - 08:31am PT
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At the risk of stating the obvious, it's great to see all these hard pullin' climbers crankin' the stuff outside of the realm of cracks.
Woodson's cracks are awesome but they represent a small percent of the area's potential.
Has anyone done "Korean Cowboy" in recent years?
Man...I can't tell you how much work I put into that one.
Never did get it.
Another "Eppi" Classic
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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Homie does seem to have quite a few classics to his credit. Some of my best memories of Woodson are the Eppi guided tours. Home Boy rocks.
Hopefully we'll get a post or two regarding the Korean Cowboy. I believe it has been done recently by someone (speak up), and given that there are some pretty active locals (yeah, you guys) I wouldn't doubt one/some of them has done it, or at least been on it (speak up).
Stacks and stacks of slab/face/arete/mantle problems still sitting out there, just waiting.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 14, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
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Korean Cowboy is a problem I've never been on. Although I know of two people who have done it fairly recently. I actually just mentioned yesterday that we should try it sometime. It definitely looks like a great problem.
There are so many climbs on Woodson it feels like the "to do" list never gets any shorter (only longer).
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 14, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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I spent most of last season with all the guides I could find chopping my way around and clearing out access. I wanted to find as many problems as were listed. I did do Korean Cowboy. I tried it one morning and got pretty close, then went back in the afternoon and sent. Very good problem but not that hard for me compared to some of the others that I spent multiple(many) days on. I'd give it V4 or 12a but of course, subjective. Stealth Bomber is another very good problem but did not feel that hard to me. Supposedly one of the shoe doping problems but all I needed was some wackey tobaccy.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 14, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
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Sh#t Johannsolo, we walked by Stealth Bomber yesterday to take a look, that thing is TALL!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 15, 2011 - 12:54am PT
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I'll echo Eliot's comments and say that Stealth Bomber looks tall. Walked out to it a couple months ago, but haven't gotten on it yet...it's high on the list along with korean cowboy. also would like to get on the "real" eppulator (the dike on the inside of the switchback up the road from jaws)
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 15, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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In the meantime, here are a couple mantles:
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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Gotta love the night bouldering pictures. That's motivated.
What's the light source, a lantern or something? It appears there's a headlamp involved in the first picture (?). Can't tell if the climber in the second has one on or not, but the spotter doesn't so it seems likely there's either another constant light source or it's a "listen to me" spot (vs. a "watch me" spot). Although the sky in the second pic does look like it may just be very late dusk. Or pre-dawn, but nobody would have their harness on that early.....would they? Regardless, cool.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 15, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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We were having too much fun to stop climbing so we hit up some problems on the way down (in the dark). The 2nd photo was our first stop (right at dusk) and the first photo was our last stop. The light was from the camera flash.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 15, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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Here are a few photos from earlier in the day:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 15, 2011 - 02:24am PT
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Is that Darrell in the picture blr? You both fired Cast of Thousand Stones first try? The diagonal line on the back side of Chimney Rock correct? I don't know if you already knew, but there is a cool arete problem on Chimney Rock up the left side of the chimney as well.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 15, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
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That's blr in the picture. That face is in the same corridor as a couple arete climbs we did sometime last season. We finally made it back over there to try the face which has a couple bolts on top.
To blr's left is an arete climb that would be a good highball/solo. There are some bolts on top but the hangers are missing. The landing zone looked like it had been worked on so maybe people have been on it.
Cast of a Thousand Stones was really cool. The start was dirty and crumbly and the climbing after was short but still fun. We "casted" some more "stones" on the start to help get on the problem.
We were looking at the slab on the inside of the chimney but didn't get on it. It looks good. Is that where Johannsolo's chimney photo was taken? I've been trying to figure that out.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Feb 15, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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Doug and Eliot,
Let me know next time you get out there. I'd love to crank into the night with you guys some time. As the days get warmer/longer, Wednesday Night Wide might have to be reimplemented in the near future. Any interest? There's a trail to Boulder 13, and I'd love to try that thing in the near future.
Josh
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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I've been watching the incoming weather forecast, and decided to juggle my work schedule to hit my last window of opportunity for the next few weeks. Nice morning.
Now c'mon people. Surely someone has done Exit Stage Left. Look at that, how can it be resisted? Cough up the story. My story when I did it: hands frozen into immovable tungsten claws right after the crux. Outta my mind trying to hook the slopers getting to the arete.
Somebody do Deport Jonny recently? Looked like a smattering of chalk on the exit holds. From just looking down it I'm still not positive where "Forever" comes up exactly. Anybody done/tried that?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
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Please identify this problem.
Yeah, easy, I know.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 15, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
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For sure Josh, but I think you meant Wed. night "finger cracks" or "thin face," right?
Henny, you got me stumped. Looks like a ravens head though.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 15, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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Hey Eliot, just a bit confused..."Cast" heads right out that tips seam on that smooth face for about 15-20 feet then up to a broken section above to the top. You say the climbing was "short" after the dirty start? Is this the same line you guys followed? For I, many moons ago, self belayed on that and thought, "you have to be kidding me!" When I tried traversing out on that seam. Maybe I was a bit sketched out on self belay but my first impression was that it was HARD!
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 15, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
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Yep, same line Gary. I remember you telling me that story and I had that in mind when trying it.
It is hard, but not as hard as you might remember with your self belay. Try it with a belayer. We also used some tricky beta in the beginning that made it a little easier to come out the roof. The crux was still the traversing seam but it's only a few campus moves to get to the broken section with the bologna slicer edge. Varied climbing...here's a shot...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Wow, I stumped Eliot. But imagine my embarrassement, I can't remember the name of the problem. Everybody walks by it and looks at that knob on the way down. It's the tan boulder on the left side (going downhill) just past the Lie Detector but before the Seminar Wall cutoff. Starts off a boulder, couple of moves on super good tan rock to get the knob.
Please identify this problem (recent hint given):
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 15, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
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Seminar Wall Henny. BTW, the rope looks so tight on Cast that my grandmother could get up it in her wheelchair.
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