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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
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nice to see views in the Notch!
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John Burns
climber
Pothole, Utah
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Mar 22, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Yesterday I climbed a .4" wide fingercrack through a bulge, at a secret public location. It felt like an FA from the number of brick-sized cobbles I cleaned, but who knows.
5.9+
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John Burns
climber
Pothole, Utah
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Mar 23, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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^McDevitt, your couch is being neglected here, ok? Rad!
Last night I jumped on a local 5.6 sandbag for the first time. I was happy to have gear for the first few moves but by the end the placements were such that I might as well have been ropeless. Funny.
Makes me wonder why I hesitated when first I saw it, alone in hiking shoes. Loose rock, I guess? So that they would not be able to call me a fool in the local paper?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Mar 24, 2015 - 08:35am PT
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"like"
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Mar 25, 2015 - 08:17am PT
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Not today, but Saturday.
Top-roped three new projects about 120' long and clocking in at a modest, but pumpy-cruxy 5.10c-d. Great stone, completely new wall, good views with an alpine feeling due to the steep drop below and having to rappel in.
But now, a dilemma presents itself.
To bolt or not to bolt...
The routes are probably just about safe to lead on gear (good pro at the cruxes, not tooooooo long runouts on the easier bits, almost solid rock throughout), but the area is sporto-bolted otherwise. If I do not bolt it, no one will climb it (the local rock climbing community is in the single digits). If I do bolt it, I will feel sorry for destroying a great trad line. Any suggestions? Beyond yergunnadie and tradisrad? I know that already.
Lasti
p.s. I am willing to start new thread if deemed necessary.
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John Burns
climber
Pothole, Utah
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Mar 27, 2015 - 09:57am PT
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Pics or it didn't happen Lasti. ;-) Seriously though, if bolting it is the only way to get people to climb it.....people suck and you should keep your line for those that climb in the traditional manner. I vote nay on the bolting.
Last evening's solo-TR. Had a close one with that apparently difficult task of LOCKING THE BELAY 'biner.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 28, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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I been lusting after this groove for a time and then some. Finally dragged a rope out there.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 28, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
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Back to Cannon Cliff. Still very much winter up there. brought my friend Tyson up the Black Dike for his 1st time. Tyson at belay on top of P1 My view from belay on top of P2 Tyson approaching belay on top of P2 P2 belay my view from the top of p3 :)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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Trad you are killing me. Winters over here. 85 degrees today. Been messing around on a really steep limestone bouldering cave. Will get some pics eventually but spent most of my freetime over the last week cleaning it up.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 28, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
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Thats crazy that winter is over. the year I lived in jackson was the absolute coldest of my life! I split for VT on April 15th 1982 and it was -5f
nothing wrong with sunny warm limestone though:)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 28, 2015 - 11:11pm PT
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Great BD pics, having flashbacks from 1975. You folks are climbing well!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 29, 2015 - 12:28am PT
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Eh, still have to complete another pitch and name it. But it is damn good!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 29, 2015 - 03:31am PT
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Todd, we cheat like hell. we have screws that go in easily one handed and big grippy things on the handles of our tools. Oh yea, we climb with gloves instead of mittens:)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 29, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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What a difference a day makes! Yesterday winter in the mountains. today cragging in Ryans back yard:)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Got up the Tower with Jack today. Summiting for the 7th straight month, 6th for Jack. Would have had my year in if it wasn't for my shoulder injury last summer where I didn't do anything but ski from April to late July.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 29, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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where I didn't do anything but ski from April to late July.
and this is why you rock, Mike.
Thrutched on some V5s today. Sweet. s
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2015 - 07:18pm PT
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BCB been thinking of heading to the front range sometime in the next couple of months. Are you still in Ft Collins? Maybe we should hook up sometime and do some climbing.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 29, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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Th' expense of spirit in a waste of shame
Is lust in action; and till action, lust
Is perjured, murd'rous, bloody, full of blame,
Savage, extreme, rude, cruel, not to trust,
Enjoyed no sooner but despisèd straight,
Past reason hunted; and, no sooner had
Past reason hated as a swallowed bait
On purpose laid to make the taker mad;
Mad in pursuit and in possession so,
Had, having, and in quest to have, extreme;
A bliss in proof and proved, a very woe;
Before, a joy proposed; behind, a dream.
All this the world well knows; yet none knows well
To shun the heaven that leads men to this hell.
Sonnet 129
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