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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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It waz 55 and freezing yesterday.... Yaipher and I made the 1.2 hr drive down to the OC and went to SENDER ONE....climbed all day and went late into the night.
I can't waite intill this winter weather passes.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mike. the start to that thing looks pretty darn scary!
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Bad Climber
climber
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Played on this--Texas Canyon, CA--a couple of days ago--photo a little doctored:
BAd
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2015 - 08:07pm PT
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No doubt trad there is no way I would touch that thing, but my buddy Keith regularly climbs 5+/6 in the south fork. I think he said he had not been out for quite sometime. It was not even 6 inches thick at the bottom and very brittle ice with temps in the low teens. I was well protected in the cave at the bottom and felt great following it clean. You could not swing or kick for the first 20 or so feet and just had to smear your crampons. It was then a long way to the belay and the second pitch was deceptively hard. Looks like you guys are getting some good conditions over there. It seems like winter is just starting around here as it has been so warm for the last two months.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Ya its nice to have ropegun once in awhile:). That was crazy Jan for you guys. hope you get a good snowpack before its over. that drought sh#t is scary stuff. going on an exploritory mission today. have to ski accross 1.6 miles of lake to see if a climb is in enough for me to have a chance climbing it. the lake crossing scares the crap out of me. Going to put the gear in a sled and have a tool out and ready in case someone goes through.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Wild and Crazy adventure. Skied across Lake Champlane and climbed Drop Swim Or Die.. the lake ice scared me pretty good. sunk in several times with water comming up through the snow arround your skiis! Kind of spooked by the time we got over there and then that thing looks absolutely horrifying when you get up close and think about leading it! Somehow I managed to get it clean. The ice ended up being in better shape than it looked though most of the screws on the steep parts hit air... Snow squalls and white outs on the way back as well as at least 4 soft spots where our skies got wet:)...looks far away and somewhat baked but we drove all this way so lets have a look:) ice looks better but super steep and candled! Where the heck is my Ropegun? after much procrastination and a we bit of prodding from my lovely sherpa I hiked the 1st pitch. steep but fun and good ice Isa follows the belay was bomber and sheltered:) I must have still been spooked because i used 4 screws on the belay;) The pillar out of the cave was steep and delicate, all the screws hit air and my foot blew twice;)
The last easy bit to the trees rapping down, OMG we climbed this thing? the ski home was spooky with whiteouts, snowsqualls and more soft spots in the ice—
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mike, every time I look at that shot of the start of your climb I get the willies! Rad stuff!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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I finally lead my first "hard" pitch of ice yesterday. I've been timid about leading ice, mostly due to the creeping doubts about the activity in general. It is a rhythm sport, the more you do the more comfortable it feels. I live far enough from the ice that a 20 pitches a season is about the most I've ever done. Kind of hard to develop a rhythm. Anyhow, yesterday seemed like a get on it or hold your peace until next season type of day. It also seemed like a day where I either start getting on the sharp end or sell the tools for another pair of skis.
It felt great the whole way, deliberate, moving fast over the first part to avoid the deluge of water trying to soak my britches. I know this is a very moderate climb, but a big milestone for me. Isn't that what makes climbing unique? The personal quest.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2015 - 07:16am PT
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Nice
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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SweeT! Looks pleanty exciteing to me:)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Leading ice is all about
#1 believeing that you can do it.
2. being strong enough and dialed enough to be able to hang out on steep terrain and place gear or climb through to better etter ice and place gear there.
that being strong and dialed combination is what helps you with #1. Being able to believe you can do it.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Great assessment Trad.
My reluctance is due to #1. I simply didn't have enough mileage under my belt yet to bolster my confidence.
I think this was a turning point for me, I'm stoked.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2015 - 03:33pm PT
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got a couple of short steep ones in today. Super warm tempsin the upper 50's. Total hero ice. More tomorrow then off to MT on Wednesday.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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thebravecowboy
climber
banana-jammin' in tennis shoes
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Damn, Jay! Didya get it? 'course you did.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Well... The photos are better than the story....
Can't get 'email all clean, all the time....
It's barely March, still shaking out the cobwebs..... :)
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