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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Wall #1 looks an awful lot like Disneyland to me! If it's virgin, it sure don't need any bolts. A pure plate slingin' frenzy, and/or nuts in those dandy fissures. I'm a guessing a long approach in Shuteye's southern hemisphere, but if I'm actually right, best not to say so on this forum. :)
Does 2.5 hours of continuous bushwhacking get me a medal of honor?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
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#1 is where the Eagles Beak doesn't point the way.
#2 is a companion to a Queen.
#3 is a dreamy location and has some established routes on it.
;-)
Heres some pics of Randomtask I dug up enjoying some Shuteye bouldering...
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Mar 11, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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Savage!
Howz life in NoFo? HA! Got shots of Slayer? Not that I'll ever send anything in the arena of SoYo bouldering hardmen ;)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 19, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
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Hmmmm, have we decided on dates yet? Salsafest!!!!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Mar 19, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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Too rad you OakeyDoke Sledneck you!
I was wondering how much snow was still on the access roads - talked to a two-wheeler on Monday who said he ran into 18 inches of snow at the red-zone on Beasore Road.
Also told me that some local sledders were calling 6 feet at Cold Springs Summit.
Too deep to muddle through with my Jeep for now.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:04am PT
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Look at the size of those chickenheads!!!
Me gotta go.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:29am PT
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HaHa! Too cool Grahm, Leo talked of that kind of approach before.
Ahh Yes the slingable horns. Gotta love the cowboy tactics.
HeeHaw!!
And Leo is Da-Man!
Great pictures BTW.
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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man... now I gotta add snow mobile to my list.
And I thought cams were expensive.
Bet it was uncrowded.
Post a couple more gems from this day for those of us who have old school computers with no flash...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 20, 2009 - 01:54am PT
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but where do you get the snow mobiles. this theory works but just gotta get them tools.
hrm
rad knob ya got there (i bet all the tourists say that)
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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More pics!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Mar 21, 2009 - 01:47am PT
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We had green underwear on!
This might work better for ya Tom, I don't think this has flash:
http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt336/sierraclimber1/Fresno%20Dome%20Winter%20Ascent/
I am now shopping for a used snow mobile! So much good rock thats dry and warm if you can just get to it. The base was about 4 to 6 feet.
Hey Ricky what kinda jeep you got? Any mods?
Heres a pic of the Shuteye Climbers Jeepin Club with Mike, Leo's and my rig.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 21, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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Combining snowmobiling and climbing is just awesome!
Add beers and I think you have a Trifecta.
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 21, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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yeah, that worked! Man, what a killer adventure! Was that the South Pillar route?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Mar 21, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Yup, South Pillar.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread I am working on a Shuteye Guide book. My intent is to have all the major areas, routes and boulder problems. I also plan on including Lewis Creek, Fresno/ Wamello, Willow Creek, and the San Joaquin as bonus sections because they are not in Shuteye proper. I know Tom and someone in the Bay Area are doing select guides to Shuteye soon but I want to do a more comprehensive guide.
I have been climbing almost exclusively at Shuteye for about 5 years and have tons of info but I am still missing bits and pieces.
This is a huge project and I would be crazy to think I can do it alone and have correct names, history and grades. A lot of climbers have contributed over many years to the area. So I am going to need route names, fa party and dates for some routes. The ones I don't get I will leave blank and fill them in after the first release. I won’t be making up names if I don’t know them.
Once I complete a section over the next year with all the info I have I will post it here for a review and hopefully get feed back from those who have climbed the area. Or hopefully get pointed in the right direction to fill in some of the blanks.
To start with here is a break down of the areas. If you know a different name or feel a section name should be different let me know. I tried to give (section names) a different name than the walls to avoid confusion. There are 53 areas so far. I bet there will be around 1,000 routes and boulder problems listed.
If you want to send me a private email its didgeridoings@aol.com
Shuteye Sections - From North to South
(North)
Lewis Creek Bouldering
Fresno / Wamello Dome
Hawk Dome
Willow Wall
(Chilkoot Lake)
Top rope Sector
Half Day Dome
(Hidden Zone)
River Wall "Swimming Hole"
Lost Eagle
Helmet "Unapologetic Statement Dome"
Exile
(Castle Crag)
Watch Tower
Battlement Boulders
(Central North)
Dreamscape
Kings Tower
Queens Throne
Queens Throne Boulders
(Central South)
Shangri La
Short and Steep
Campsite Boulders
Talon
High Eagle
High Eagle Boulders
Aerie
Hobbit
Fifty Five Sevens
(Chiquito)
(Shorty Domes) ( Past High Eagle on the lookout road)
Cat Nap
Next dome up the road, Evolution?
Next one after that, Family Wall?
(Shuteye Peak)
"Look Out"
"Peak Boulders"
(Shuteye Creek)
Electric Eagle Upper
Electric Eagle Lower
"Bastion"
Gray Eagle
Red Eagle
Minerva
(Shuteye Pass North)
"Little Sleep"
Big Sleep Boulders "Sleepy Boulders"
Big Sleep
Voodoo
Crocodile
Crocodile Egg Boulders "Croc Blocks"
Golden Nugget
"Eggs"
(Shuteye Pass South)
Fallen Eagle
Eagles Nest Boulders
"Eagles Nest"
(Eagle Beaks)
"Rock Creek Wall"
Incinerator
North Eagle Beak
Chickadee "Baby Eagle"
South Eagle Beak
(Power Zone)
Power Towers
Hide Out
(San Joaquin River)
Redinger Dam
Power House 4 Boulders
River Gorge Boulders
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Mar 23, 2009 - 08:35am PT
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River Wall? Are you referring to the wall downstream from the parking area for Lost Eagle, G? Hmmm....I think out of respect to the original FA's, they actually refered to thast wall as 'Skinny Dip' Wall. Check with Tiki-ger and Nate D.
As a side note, hoped to make the Helmet named as 'Dark Helmet' a) since there already is one out on the western side b) it was referred to as such because it looks like the helmet similiar to the one in Space Balls....obtuse and dark. HA ;)
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Mar 23, 2009 - 09:12am PT
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Mooch and Grahm, Skinny Dip Wall was coined by Jerry Anderson and his wife. My son actually got the FA of the center route before the bolts. 'Dog on a Log' 5.9. Couple of nice boulder problems up canyon too. I'll get the names and numbers for the other routes.
Hidden Zone, I likey
gj
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Mar 23, 2009 - 11:37am PT
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Ok, Thanks guys! I updated the list for Skinny Dip. I believe Matt did the first work on the Helmet so we should check with him if Dark Helmet is cool.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Mar 23, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
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G -
Talked with Matt on Saturday and mentioned Dark Helmet. He didn't seem to have a problem with it....unless he still wants to refer to it as "Unapologetic Dome". :/
Also, I saw in another thread that Tom was curious about folks leading Pennies on The Patio (Moro rock). Is he including Sequoia NP stuff in his No. Cal climbing guide? Just curious.
Wut up Savage!?
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Mar 23, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Nice work on Wamello by sled! Great adventure value I'm sure. Prolly quicker than driving. Thanks for the photos. Hope to hook up with all you guys sometime. See you 'round.
-Scott
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