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Mimi
climber
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Feb 20, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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Holy moly, coplateau! That collection you posted is magnificent! Thanks for taking the time.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 20, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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fricken awesome slideshow- keep on it rolling,please
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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Ok- here are some more I forgot about. Ice climbing at West Elden on one remarkable winter. The color shots are all on Baxter Cracker and the slab below it, and the B&W is somewhere on the far right end, almost to Twilight Zone.
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 20, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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A few more random ones I ran across.
Golden Valley, near Kingman- Bax climbing
The main man himself- Scott Baxter
Dali Dome at the Syndicate Stronghold (Christmas Tree Pass)
Hosebub Whiteout on the Hackberry Wall
Bax on the Walnut Creek Wall first ascent
Nice light on King Crimson, Sedona
Second to last pitch of Dresdoom on the first ascent
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
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Bad Ass!
Thanks for the contributions, coplateau
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 20, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Freakin A, about time you chimed in Bud !
Nice shots, and btw, I was doing a roof mantle.
In case you're trying to keep your anonymity....
Here's a little story about ice climbing at Elden, names changed to protect the anonymous.
So, Elden forms (late '70s) and my good buddy Hernando starts trying to drag out me there. I don't know man, that stuff looks sharp and pointy, I say.
Hernando continues to rave (I guess it had formed the year before or so and he'd done a bit then.) So, he talks me into it, lends me some gear (I think I had my own axe and crampoons.)
We drive out to Elden and get out of the car (duh...)
Hernando hands me some gear, gives me a 30 second lesson in strapping this sh#t on and pops on his crampons.
He's excited to be out and quickly ditches me to run up to the ice. Pigout the wonder dog is quickly on his tail; that animal could smell blood long before it even happens.
Meantime, I'm back at the parking lot being a total dweeb and trying to figure out how all this weird, dangerous crap goes on my feet. I mean, you used to have lace this stuff on to your Galibiers. At least I could still touch my toes back then but other than that, it was pretty humorous watching me trying to get this stuff strapped on. Kinda like a noob trying to get into a harness that's been all twisted up.
I look up just in time to see Hernando jump on the ice and do two moves up. He's raving about how good the ice is, plastic fantastic stuff, when suddenly his Humingbird comes ripping out and there's a hellacious noise of metal jingling and crashing and ice breaking and Pigdog starts jumping and barking and it's freakin bedlam.
I notice that there appears to be some redness to the white ice and Hernando is sitting on the ground holding his head. I do the limp dash over there with one crampon on and one off to find blood everywhere !
Hernando is holding his hand over his eye and blood is streaming down his fingers. Pigdog the wonder dog is going apesh#t.
I mean totally whack. This dog is running around everywhere licking up the bloody ice. He's barking, whining and eating and just having the time of his life.
In the meantime, I'm thinking Hernando has just lost an eye to this evil sport.
He uncovers his face and says that he thinks he's allright.
I look and there's this perfect circle cut into his face that totally rings his eye. The backside of his Humingbird had a sharp open circle about an inch in diameter that had kicked back and whacked the f*#k out of his head. A tool designed to take a chunk out of ice makes pretty quick work of facial flesh.
We scoop up snow and plaster it onto his face and pretty soon the bleeding stops and Hernando says he's feeling ok. So... we do some really shaky ice bouldering and then head home.
I gotta admit, I used to be a pretty sick fxxx because on the way home, I look over and see this perfect circle cut around Hernando's eye and just start laughing uncontrollably.
I'm sure it was just nervous release and not really rude dark climbing humor.
The next day a sign appears at the Alpineer:
For Sale:
1 Set of Salewa Rigid Crampons
1 Chouinard Ice Axe
Naw, I made that last bit up. I kept my gear but I do have to say that with that being my intro to ice climbing, it never became my most favorite climbing activity.
In the meantime, Hernando has to walk around Flagstaff with one of the most bizarre black eyes you've ever seen. And as it started to turn colors, it had the look of the raccoon from hell.
And that's the story of my first time on ice, in AZ no less.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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This seems like as good a place as any for the sneak peeks on the cover pages for the two new guides (obviously there's still some adjustments to be done):
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 21, 2009 - 12:48am PT
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Wow, in my next life I'm gonna give Arizona a try!
It was the scene of one of my first attempts at peak bagging. On the way from Chicago to LA in '62 we stopped at a rest area for lunch. While Grannie and Mom kicked it in the shade the bros (both 8) and me (12) headed for some 'peak'. We never made it to the base. We all came back within about 15 minutes festooned with chollas. We were particularly perplexed by the ones adorning our Keds. How to get them off? I swear this is true. I came up with the idea of burning them off! We waited until the heat was unbearable and then knocked them off. That was the only way we could shed the Keds! Then we could work on the stubs with pliers. The twins had it the worst. Despite some serious lip trembling I don't recall either of them really losing it.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 21, 2009 - 12:54am PT
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Impressive Reilly. Them jumpin' chollas were still ruthless 20 years later with Nike waffle bottoms. Had spikes embedded almost throughout my college days. Got used to em. They always managed to fester out on their own, didn't they?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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Mimi,
Being young and tender, us that is, they seemed to come out fairly easily. Being OCD I made damn sure they were all out before we got back in the car!
It never happened again until I was demonstrating their jumping prowess to my wife who had never seen them. Of course, I then got to demonstrate my extraction prowess; DOH!
Reilly
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:05am PT
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I heard tell of Ice like that in Elden but never saw it, even when there was snow on the ground. Prolly bad timing on my part...
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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No Jay, another bit of evidence of global warming.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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MC, (MC?! MPC?) and steelmonk, just came across your posts from the 11th, It's not likely, March is a 22 day work month for me, this year, I'll be lucky to get out alive, as it is. but it won't always be like that, and I'm jonseing the supes and Zonerland!
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:16am PT
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Granite Mt. Future SushiFest.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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Now That, would be a venue!
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 21, 2009 - 09:48am PT
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Thanks for the little trip down memory lane, Pablo- I had forgotten all about that little incident until now. I do remember that it bled quite a bit..
But I resent your reference to the "pigdog"- Pika always held you in the highest respect (as he did for anyone who might kill him). Does he look like a pigdog?
And BTW- I found the youthful shot of you that Grossman posted adorable- you were such a cutey! Sorry that I only met you once you were old and crusty..
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coplateau
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 21, 2009 - 10:16am PT
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And Jaybro- it probably wasn't your lack of persistence that kept you from finding ice at Elden (or pretty much anywhere in Arizona). What made that year remarkable was the sequence of events: 1) heavy snowfall on an El Nino year, followed by 2) a really wet rain event, and then 3)super cold temps setting in for a few days. The result was an ice-sheathed Elden, that stayed around for several weeks, even though temps warmed back up to normal, mild Flag conditions. I looked for it again and again over the years, but never saw anything like that one winter.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 21, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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Damn Larry!!!
You keep showing up like that and I'm gonna have to start carrying an avalanche beacon and shovel around the house!
A warm ST welcome to the illustrious Don Bosco Moraini, haute alpine sleuth, enforcer for the Syndicato Granitica and desert demi-god. The guidebook is in the house and so is the man's extensive slide collection as adventure's Eye of the North!
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