Northeastern edition TRs 2

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lucander

Trad climber

New England

Oct 14, 2011 - 12:15am PT

Been good here in the Gunks, still climbing in a tank-top on classics like Bonnie's Roof and Ant's Line, as well as not-so classics like Amber Waves of Pain and On Any Monday.

For the hell of it, here's a shot from a recent trip to West Virginia. Climbed 20 pitches, highlighted by The Undeserved - which was arguably one of the best single-pitch trad routes I've been on. Here's a picture on a less exciting climb, Strike a Scowl.

cowpoke

climber

Oct 14, 2011 - 07:28am PT

Another highlight from that beautiful weekend: Chiloe leading to the top-out at Great Head.

(not pictured: JimE being eaten at the belay by hungry flies)

GOclimb

Trad climber

Boston, MA

Oct 14, 2011 - 10:49am PT

Nice pics. Thanks for helping to scratch the itch a little.

GO

perswig

climber

Jul 24, 2012 - 11:34pm PT

Decided to put this here, a cul-de-sac of a thread, visited mostly by locals. If you've stumbled in by mistake, thanks for stopping by.

Friday took the dogs for a mud run...

and then strolled out the Rockland Breakwater.

Finished in 1899, cost $750,000.
700K tons of granite, 43 feet wide on top, 175 feet wide at the sea floor beneath the lighthouse. 4300 feet long!

Saturday, Troy and I headed up Pinnacle Buttress, a tradition we missed the last 2 years.
Girl's socks, check.

An intimation of tomorrow - a glider cirling Mt. Washington in the clouds.

Sunday, spent the morning at the Owl's Head Transportation Museum.
Truck and Tractor Day.
I'm not a gearhead, internal combustion's alchemy to me.

But, man, I love details.

Personal responsibility.

Sometimes things are better a little offset.

Just before I left, I looked and saw another silent coasting ghost. A pilot doing a dead-stick approach and landing, 270 degrees of course correction and a beautiful touchdown. Hope it was a drill.

Dale

cowpoke

climber

Jul 25, 2012 - 07:52am PT

Right on, Dale. Nice bump of our local thread with an excellent addition!

I've never (hiding eyes shamefully) done the Pinnacle Buttress -- looks fun.

Hoping to get out today...with the low humidity, almost feels like fall this morning.

Cheers!

perswig

climber

Jul 25, 2012 - 08:47am PT

It DOES feel like fall.
And the gravity feels low. Hope you take advantage!

Dale

TrundleBum

Trad climber

Las Vegas

Jul 25, 2012 - 12:36pm PT

@ perswig:

Being a Marblehead, wharf rat, kid, I like your shot of the break water.
Is that 'Rockland' ME ?

perswig

climber

Jul 25, 2012 - 01:26pm PT

Ayuh, TB, that would be Rockland, Maine; if you haven't been, it's a pretty harbor, has a ferry terminal to serve Vinalhaven and Northhaven, and this cool breakwater.
Rockland's got a reputation as a small drinking town with a large fishing problem, although you've got those in your neck of the woods, too...

A short story about the breakwater.
Many years ago I bought a 20' retractable-keel Macgregor and decided to keep it in Rockland. Kind of a wallowing pig of a sailboat, but cheap, had a little v-berth, good for daysailing and occasional gunkholing, I thought.
Now, my experience at that time was limited to ponds and lakes, but how hard could coastal sailing be, right?

So, my first few forays are short affairs, around the horn to Owl's Head, out to the closer islands, easy-peasy.
Then I get too big for my britches and take her up to Rockport and Camden and come back much later that day. The sailing's great, the weather's beautiful, and barring the appearance of a pea-soup fog getting home's a cinch.

Until I get to the breakwater.

And realize that the wind has shifted off-shore.
And has built.
And the tide is at full dump, being squeezed between the lee shore and the breakwater.
I'm screwed.

This boat had a tiny sail area, tiny keel mass, could not point to save my life in the BEST of circumstances. And given my limited finances (and more limited foresight) I had only installed an electric trolling motor as a kicker to help negotiate the marina to and from the slip, counting on my nautical prowess to handle all other eventualities.
Screwed.

I spend the better part of four hours "tacking" into that wind, with the troller running full-bore hot and the battery draining by the second, and seeing my reference point on the breakwater barely move a micrometer in all that time.
After what seemed forever, after adrenaline was waning and fatigue kicking in, and as it was getting dark (not sure if I had wired the running lights, even), the tide ebbed, the wind ebbed, and we limped into the moorings and floats with a massive respect for natural phenomena, prior planning, and appropriate horsepower.

It took me many days later to realize the smart money, once in the predicament in the first place, would have been to swing round the break, anchor and wait - still be late getting in, but all that energy expended saved for another day's adventure. Tunnel vision, stubborn streak, dumb - or all of the above.

I still have mixed feelings about that breakwater.
Dale

cowpoke

climber

Jul 25, 2012 - 04:01pm PT

wow = great story, Dale! very glad that all ended ok.

Just back from a half-day at Cape Ann with Sammy. Not much worth driving more than 30 minutes for, but quickly becoming my favorite greater Boston spot. Several moderate cracks that remind me of the precipice at Acadia, albeit much shorter...probably high-balls for the braver of heart than me.

"Dad, I hate this helmet..."

"I know, but check out those jams, eh?"

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2012 - 04:28pm PT

Nice, guys. I have yet to make one Northeastern climb in 2012, but maybe that should come some day soon.

cowpoke

climber

Jul 25, 2012 - 04:48pm PT

looking stormy for a few days, but let me know, Chiloe...I'd love to get together if the forecast improves or after it improves

perswig

climber

Jul 25, 2012 - 09:27pm PT

Sammy clearly found a no-hands rest!

Dale

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jul 26, 2012 - 10:45am PT

I have yet to make one Northeastern climb in 2012

Your rack and rope are barking to be taken out for a walk!
Get thee to the hills, pronto.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jul 26, 2012 - 10:50am PT

*perswig: nice job reporting back on truck and tractor day.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 01:45pm PT

Your rack and rope are barking to be taken out for a walk!
Get thee to the hills, pronto.

It's even worse than that. I have a couple of brand new ropes bought last fall that have not yet seen the outdoors.

cowpoke

climber

Aug 9, 2012 - 03:28pm PT

It's hot (again) today, but Tuesday = perfect day for a stroll up Cathedral with two teenagers.

Teenagers on ledges:

Starman

Trad climber

Sterling, MA

Aug 10, 2012 - 11:26am PT

Hey cowpoke,

Just updated a right coast thread on Tuesday at N Conway with my daughter, Sammy, and nephew, Jake. Strictly speaking, I guess that doesn't really count as 'round these parts.

Lately, closer to home, we have been spending half-days up at the north shore/Cape Ann with a couple Farley trips sprinkled into the mix.

And, you?

Nice shots! Looks like a fun day -- Funhouse (maybe) to Upper Refuse? Great for the Smaller People. Enjoy those sweet times while they last -- once their off to college (if they go) things change a lot. But the bonds are formed strongly on the rocks, IMHO.

And, ya... NC/NH environs (even Maine and NY/CT etc.) count as local to me :)

Live 12 minutes from Crow Hill but hardly ever go there over the past few years. Recently bought a Micro Traxion and started going solo to CH at fringes of day. Liking it a lot! May get out to Farley (SSSHHHHH) this Sunday??

Recent empty-nester's just getting free again; spending time at Rumney so the Lady can get back on the sharp end (and it's coming back for her now...) Also checking out "other" crags in NH this summer, such as Humphries and Attitash, etc. Nice to see new lines, without the waiting lines lol! Handren's new guide is the inspiration.

Have climbed all over NE in all seasons :)

Take care man!

perswig

climber

Sep 22, 2012 - 02:30pm PT

The four horsemen of the climbing Apocalypse (work, injury, weather, domestic turbulence) have conspired to make this a lousy rock season, but a bright spot yesterday...

Dale