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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 10, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Invite Sprock to join you ("why, are you coming apart?")
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
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The late Bill Waggs did the FA of "Chewy's Lookout" (5.10b) maybe 10 or 12 years ago, naming it after his dog "Chewy". An ex-Marine, Bill worked and worked as a contractor around here to amass a retirement nest egg. When he got the loot, he moved to Arizona and promptly came down with cancer that took him rather quickly. Nice guy. Tragic ending at about 50 y.o.
Bill's friend Eddie Tharp did the FA of "Mother Lode" (5.11b) about the same time that Bill did "Chewy's Lookout" and used to lead it all the time before he moved up to the Gold Country about 10 years ago where he's still putting up routes near Consumes. After Bill passed, Eddie inherited Bill's dog Chewy.
There's also a 5.10d TR to the left of "Mother Lode" that anchors off that big tree on top. Nice at the bottom, sort of dirty finish.
So that's about all I know, Blue. I know that Eddie and those guys hand-drilled all the bolts there without using a Bosch or a Hilti.
Charlie Milligan is still around the Bay working as a tree surgeon. He and his wife have acquired some property up in back of Mariposa with some bouldering rocks scattered around his backyard. I think Josh Fengel works with him sometimes. I see Charlie out at the new Diamond Heights TR area between the Hostess and Last Temptation Cliff.
So there! I wrote you a book on the subject!
PS- I did "Pearls Before Swine" independent of the Mother Lode Gang. Sort of like a Valley face climb with mantles down low.
Bruce Morris' beta on Aquarian Valley and Devil's Canyon is priceless. Almost as good as the quality of climbing there, the best on Skyline Blvd (Hwy 35).
He should write a guidebook.....oh, yeah....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
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Dr Sprock is in limbo, man. Lost the connection.
Sux.
Prolly be in the perimeter around 9ish.
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cleo
Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
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Oct 11, 2015 - 11:00am PT
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Contrary to popular belief the current rangers are not neo-Nazis.
Are there new Rangers, then? Don't mind the rules so much, did mind the scary, threatening behavior...
Edit: the scary, threatening ranger was J. Rule. It happened 6-7 years ago and still stands out in my mind as the scariest encounter with an LEO I've ever had.
3 women and a baby. Walking out, no lights (because it was still light out), under canopy, just arrived in parking lot. J. Rule was screaming at us and threatening jailtime. I'm not kidding - jailtime... for being in the parking lot a few minutes after actual sunset.
That was my very first visit to CR.
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Oct 11, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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Lol.
"Hey guys, over here" bump.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 11, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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FYI: State Parks Ranger Jason Rule has been transferred out of Castle Rock State Park:
"Goodbye Jason"
"Jason Rule, the longtime Park Ranger at Castle Rock and Portola Redwoods State Parks is moving on. Jason has been a champion of the parks since he started in 2004. During his term, he has seen many changes in the parks and the State Park system including the sever budget cuts that almost closed his two parks. Jason was instrumental in working with the Portola and Castle Rock Foundation to start the now-robust program of volunteers who augment the rangers with trained “boots-on-the- ground” hikers in both parks. We wish Jason the best as in his new position with the San Luis Obisbo CA Park district. He will be missed.
To learn more about Jason, click here to read PCRF Director Barbara Harriman’s interview with Jason."
Since the click doesn't seem to work, here's a transcription of the pdf orginal:
"The Portola and Castle Rock Foundation wants to thank Jason Rule for his 11 years of service in the
Santa Cruz District of the CA State Parks Department as he ventures off to a new experience in the San
Luis Obispo District of California Parks!
When asked about his transfer, Jason said it comes with both excitement and sadness. "There's a
heaviness leaving this area - the community has been great to be a part of. Leaving friends and
colleagues that I love and respect is difficult. Yet, I'm looking forward to moving on and working with a
new crew. I even bought a house, which I could not afford to do in the Bay area. II
Jason applied to become a park ranger back in 2001. In November 2003 he received his invitation to a 27
week academy resulting in a Park Ranger position in Santa Cruz District of the California State Parks and
Recreation Department. Over the years Jason has since patrolled Castle Rock, Portola Redwoods, and
Big Basin.
I asked Jason what education and training is required to become a ranger. He said that the requirement
is 60 college units, but that being said better than 80% of the rangers have college degrees. Jason was a
biological science graduate.
So what does Jason love most, and find most challenging, about his job? He said the two are the same.
"The diversity of the job is the best part and most challenging part of my job." When on duty, Jason
has the responsibility of patrolling the parks, collecting and depositing fees, answering the phones, and
interacting with the public to give them direction and answer their questions. Quite often Jason is called
to assist when there's an accident on Route 9 or 35. "Every day is unique. The hours can be grueling,
sometimes working 15 to 24 hours when the need arose." When a storm brought down power lines and
trees all over Skyline and Route 9, Jason had the responsibility to inform residences and help them
navigate the area where the roads were open. Jason said the peanut butter and jelly sandwich provided
that day by our Cal Fire team was one of the best sandwiches he's ever tasted.
When asked about the greatest changes he has seen in the park system, Jason replied "Budgetary cuts
from the State level have led to difficult outcomes in the field. I even received a couple of IOUs from the
State. Getting positions filled once available became difficult. The Parks Department doesn't have
budget minimums like schools and prisons and it's difficult to communicate how much is needed to run
a park. During the recession all the State Departments were fighting for a piece of the budget. That's
when they were slating both Portola and Castle Rock State Parks to be shut down. We're still dealing
with these mandatory reductions set by the State. II
One of the bigger operations Jason has been involved with was working on the coast on the 4th of July.
Pre-2008 the rangers would be on the sidelines ready to respond to emergencies. Since then they have
taken a substantially greater role in providing a safe environment. It has gone from chaos and danger to
family friendly and a good time for all
Off duty, one of Jason's favorite events is to visit his sister's 2nd grade classrooms at Orchard Elementary
in Modesto. Jason knows that many of these children have never had the opportunity to go camping.
Jason gives an hour talk using a slide projector (which fascinates the children). He embellishes his talk
with animal skins and skulls. The kids are thrilled to see Jason in his uniform and hear his stories. He is
touching their hearts and imaginations."
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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He was an as#@&%e, J. Rule. And I always give LEO and Rangers nothing but respect. They are the LAW in the park, you'd be a f*#king idiot to not take them seriously.
Some people just abuse their authority, they forget what they're there for.
Platypus and Shady Rock were outstanding as usual yesterday. I'm worn down after doing Plat-a-pussy and the mantle on Slot Nose. I need to get back after it, been taking it lite lately...
My son John got some awesome cave bouldering in though with the guidance of PhotoEz. Ez is bailing to New Hampshire to literally start a new life and family. That kicks a$$$$$$$
I'll miss him. Good climbing partner. (See my Wamello Dome TR).
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reach
Trad climber
Brisbane, CA
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Oct 12, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
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Some people just abuse their authority, they forget what they're there for.
One weekend morning I was driving up HWY 9 to CR. It was early as we were trying to beat the crowds. I was doing the speed limit or a little over; essentially normal driving. Then a ranger truck fast approaches from behind, tailgates me for a number of the sharp turns, then passes me going up hill in a no passing zone. He must have gotten stuck behind another "slow vehicle" on the way to the parking lot because when I parked he was just getting out of his truck with his coffee cup in hand.
Seeing that he was not really hurrying for anything important, I said "Good thing you passed me." in a sarcastic, passive aggressive, you're a dick kinda way. He made eye contact and did not saying anything. Reading these comments makes me glad I did not push my luck any further.
My default is to completely respect these guys, for sure. Don't get me wrong.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
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I need a freakin' belay!!! Who wants to climb this weekend?
I can go anytime really, but the mornings are better for parking and getting on route before the freakin' guides show up!
Let's do it! Don't make me go out and try to figure out how to solo-climb and figure out all the rigging.
C'mon!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 06:26pm PT
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Yeah, Cosmic, me too. I could camp on ledges with you and have a blast.
Does that sound gay-ish?
F*#k, I think I'm gonna have to figure out this rope-solo thing. All my partners have bailed. I must be a dick or something.
So be it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
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I'll use my mini-trax for ya, Dwain! So smooth in the backyard, and bites the rope hard when tensioned!
I think me and John will roll out early and set up on something simple, maybe Henry and Otis so I can place gear and get some jams. I could prolly walk away from decking out if 'all else fails'. Maybe hit Last Tempatation after that.
Monkey Brains or something is out right, on the face past 'Charlie's Angel'. Gnarly 10b or something that is very real. I wanna stick that f*#ker. Been a thorn for a while.
I usually cruise 10b faces with minor degrees of trepedation. This one is weird for some reason.
It must be done, I have a new project!!!
Everyone bails on this rig to right, into an o/W chimney thing. Off-route!!!!
I wanna stick this thing. It's only f*#king 5.10b....or something like that.
What's super-awesome is that I can mini-trax this thing. Good fixed lead bolts and top anchors. Base has solid anchors.
I'll attach pics to this project.
EDIT: I may be thinking of "I Go I Know Not Whither". Good stuff. I know the route when I see it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
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I'll have John get some pics, Dwain. Stacy is a little sketched, but we'll be fine.
I may downgrade to Stevens Canyon Boulder for a trial run. It's all good though.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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A lot of people get tooled at Castle Rock...."Athlete's Feat" is pretty stiff for 11a and By Gully kicks a lot of ass for it's grade.You're especially vulnerable if you think the soft ratings on the sport climbs in Boulder Canyon are representative. After you get tooled have a beer at the Hungry Toad, a really neat British style pub in Boulder.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Umph slot is piss easy especially since it ain't even on "Castle Rock" .
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Must be getting old Steve, I mean't By Gully.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Lots of Castle Rocks out there...
... Cali Colo WA what ever...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 10:21pm PT
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Yeah, I'm just sitting here listening to it all. It's all good.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Back at ya, Todd!
never made it CR this weekend, yet. Fishing is getting in the way.
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