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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 27, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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SO Kinda of you to care! I am glad that I was able to get your attention.
Now that you have Made It yours again you can have it back.
This is the vibe we prowled around with [Click to View YouTube Video]not the harder Slayer, set that would follow a few years later, and pulled down twice as hard as the decade before, and so it goes, over and over ..
This is an old song done well the all important thing is to be able to return to a fun place that is not torn down.
Now I am all for cleanining and spraying about what a great climb or sixteen moves you found that you just sent. Good for you. I am sure that It is yours , all yours, thnx for all the work and chalk that you have contributed.
The quote from Ray Olson, was to highlight that this is an old and often revisited debate.
The Number One Rule Is Don't wreck the place,
(The f- bomb, dude. DON" PHUK THE PLACE UP)
I am a long time shadow of my former self but I care what happened back in the day
And I still care today I am all for climbing In any style that blows your hair back.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I was serious about aggressive cleaning! good for sight in many ways,
if the climb teaches more as is, with moves that reward the skilled and bold ,
but give puase to all due to the over all serious nature of the entire experience,
leave it be to teach the lessons it has to share.
climb past as lightly as possible, "DancePast Flakes" (loose, 5.9+ R)
,No One wants holds snaping under full yard on- press to match toe to thumb stand up,
If you want
to pry and hammer off flexing flakes find a quarry or rock that has no history.
Get down in the weeds with you?
not gonna change a thing.
You will do whatever you want that is clear from what you have to say about what you do.
I don't care what you do or think We are not all that unalike as I have said . When I see myself in uglyness I like to point it out.
BUDUM, DUH BUMP, you know the drum stroke to emphasize
A bad joke ,
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crøtch
climber
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Mar 27, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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Recent posts are a sad departure from the stoke levels seen on this and previous Woodson 20XX threads.
Here's some of my homies getting down amongst the trees and boulders.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 27, 2015 - 05:21pm PT
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More climbing less wanking.
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Friend
climber
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Mar 27, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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Ha, nice posts guys. Plasticmullet, thanks man. Drop me a line if you get the jones to climb. I’m sure we have some mutual friends.
Right on KW. "Yohanistan" made me laugh out loud, I do hope that name can be used somewhere, sometime.
Cerro Terry definitely has a ring to it and sounds like a well-deserved name. It was more the context of it in the above posts that made me wonder.
More climbing is right. Unfortunately it looks too hot for me this weekend so it’s gonna be nothing but slander and lies from me until temps cooperate.
Cheers all.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 27, 2015 - 11:49pm PT
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Oh for f*#ks sake. Gnome person, you care about how things were "back in the day?" What's back in the day for you? 1983?! bwahahhahah!
Sand person, since when the f*#k is West Ridge a "secret area?" And "Cerro Torre?" wtf? Goddamn it who the f*#k are you spraying wannabes?
I have seen this exact same dipshit woodson newbie piss-match cycle so many times in the last 45 years I've lost count.
Andrew and John deserve full respect. But this muthaf*#king bitchfest ain't over until I, the american legend and last of the real-deal woodsonites, motherf*#king say it's motherf*#king over!
bitches don't know.
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Sanstone
climber
San Diego
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Mar 28, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
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Thought this horse was dead, but I guess it's still twitching. Must say I've gotten some legit laughs off this thread, even if I started out seething. Like KW said, those guys came up with the Cerro Terre thing, not me. I just call it "The Boulders". One thing that is hard to fathom from this thread is how few people have gone up there over the years. I'll address a couple things for Friend and hopefully this subject is over.
1) Compliments on your climbing ability and current fitness level.
2) Your discretion on naming spots did not go unnoticed.
3) If not for the damage on the arête, I would have never posted anything.
4) Last week I saw a 4.5 Red at the base of the Woodson crack.( For real)
5) The name of the " Weed" crack is "The Tennis Raquet Crack" established by myself and Steve Belford circa "82.
6) I have no name for the Woodson crack as I'm sure someone did it long before me.
7) I'm aware of about 4 places on the hill where epoxy has been used by me on the hill. I stand by those reinforcements. They are subtle and would be surprised if anybody would even notice. Certainly not walking by as you desribe. However, if you see something that represents an ethical violation feel free to Yo-Hawnn it off.
8) As far as yanking the vid, your call.
In the end, my "allegations", were not petty or cheap, they were accurate. You were on the hill within 100 yards of the damage during the same week. The perpetrator was accused and he confessed. And at least he was Yo-Honnest!
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Mar 29, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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Oh Boy...Here we go again! "Gluing is OK"?
How hard are the climbs that have been "glue reinforced"?
Is it possible that the next generation may "send it" at 5.16?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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I know Rick, right? Ethics creep. If a hold snaps, so be it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:23pm PT
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Glue this, ya big fat dicksmokers.
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Sanstone
climber
San Diego
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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EDIT: Just thought of something.
Since we're gluing, can't we just glue those flakes back on that got plucked off?
There are actually two holds where that would be appropriate.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
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And it sounds like you'd have no compunction about doing it. Poor form, broheim.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Mar 29, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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Since we'er gluing,can't we just glue those flakes that got plucked off? I would have to say NO!!!! You had your chance.
you can not repair you're lack of technic to pull it off! YOU broke it!
you had your chance...leave it for someone else...and move on.
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Sanstone
climber
San Diego
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Mar 29, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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How hard are the climbs that have been "glue reinforced"?
5-10
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Mar 29, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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How hard are the climbs being "glue reinforced"?
Answer: "5.10"...This is exactly my point.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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Damn son. I thought we were talking about...well, something more than 5.10 choss heaps. Dropped my smoke in my coffee when I read that.
Just makes the whole deal that much worse.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Sanstone, its good that you stand behind your actions, but gluing, even the most careful, craftsman-like gluing is a bad thing. Its altering the rock. Rather than find solid rock to climb we bend nature to suit our needs? I know from experience that it sucks when you find a awesome new line and a crucial hold comes off, but that doesnt mean you should glue it back on. If everyone did that then there would be glue patches all over the place.
The argument for unethical behavior is often "but i know what im doing". Maybe, but you are opening the door for a whole lot of people that dont know what they are doing. There cant be an elite that has special priveleges, one set of rules applies to everyone. If Johnny Gymrat comes up and sees a bunch of glue reinforced flakes then whats to stop him from gluing flakes to blank faces to make his own routes? How do you explain to him that this type of gluing is ok but that is not?
The sport is being rocked by legions of gym climbers who have no idea whats right and whats wrong, and they are going to take their cue from what they see. The best chance we have of preventing the spread of bad practices like gluing is to not do it, not condone it and not justify it.
You were railing against people who are resorting to unethical and detrimental means to bag as many routes as they can. If a hold breaks and makes the line unclimbable then its no longer a route. Time to find something else. Gluing it up just so you can have another route is different from what they are doing in what way?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Yes...nice 2 cents Ron!
" If Johnny Gymrat comes up and sees a bunch of glue reinforced flakes then whats to stop him from gluing flakes to blank faces to make his own routes? How do you explain to him that this type of gluing is ok but that is not?"
Couldn't of said it better!
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Sanstone
climber
San Diego
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Quote HThe sport is being rocked by legions of gym climbers who have no idea whats right and whats wrong, and they are going to take their cue from what they see. The best chance we have of preventing the spread of bad practices like gluing is to not do it, not condone it and not justify it.ere
100% correct.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Thank you Sanstone.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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May 31, 2015 - 12:51am PT
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Whoa, Terry is on supertopo?!!! I miss your company Terry, and I mean that...lot's of fond memories. And hey, don't give me any credit, nor include me in any list of notables on Woodson, for I've always been a tag-a-long since day one. I've always followed in the footsteps of other's accomplishments and enjoyed their efforts. I've never placed a bolt, established any first ascents, nor done much trail work. I'm just a cheap customer enjoying a free ride, thanks to you all.
As far as making mention of "The Boulders," as you always referred to them as when you persistently wanted to take me up there (lol), here on ST, I did that purposely because of the awesome memories that I had from the few tours that you gave me up there, and wanted someone else to get the opportunity that I did. I knew how sensitive you were about them, but I guess I just couldn't keep my mouth shut any longer, now that I've decided to step away from the sport...yep, I think I'm done...I think. If you recall our conversations way back when, my stance was that, even if your area was brought to light, because of the relative obscurity of the area, the population of climbers would be kept to a minimum, thus wear and tear as well. As far as what happened already, I guess I would be partially to blame for that. Btw, is that "Chronicles" face the one you had me rap off the one "bomber" bolt at the top, and I kept giving you excuses as to why it wasn't safe, or was that another? If it was, all I can remember is how EXCELLENT it was after I did it! And what was the other south facing, dark colored face that had a, what was it, one bolt runout lead on it, 5.10d was it? Holy moly, remember how stoked I was after that?! This excitement was what I lived for when climbing. It wasn't the hard work like you, and others on here, have done, are doing, and will do for climbing in the future. Praise God for you guys!
"Cerro Terry"...lol, that made me smile.
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