Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
jonnyrig
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
|
There being just us two, we backed off a couple lines that were very loose and/or poorly protected. More to do here though.
|
|
jonnyrig
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
|
Nice wall Ron. Tad, im jealous. Nice lookin rock up that way, and real snow!
|
|
Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
|
Do you know Ty/e Neff or his story?
I don't, but he or someone with the same name put up some climbs on Tom's Thumb (Susanville Ca. area) in the late 80's after I pioneered the place 76-78.
I knew Tye when I lived in Susanville and then I moved to Plumas Co.
We climbed a bit together...Pigeon cliffs, your thumb routes, and other assorted choss outcrops from Chester to Taylorsville.
I've climbed just about every route worth doing on that Thumb of a rock there.
Also a bunch further back in towards the reservoir (Antelope) from Genesee V. mostly on other obscure (tiny) formations.
Quality varies...mostly choss.
Which is why I moved to Truckee...well via Delhi:-)
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
|
Delhi Dog, Ron & Tad that is Amazingly cool coincidence! The One and only Ty Neff!?
Ron, how does he spell his name?
Delhi, tell more did you ever meet his son Gus?
Tad that, ha ha, sucks, why didn' you climb all of that chunk when you had the chance? Just kidding but no stupid symbols if the sarcasm don' t getcha' the climbing will!
All that I can say as of now is that his son and I were inseparable for the kidz very tough teenage years, Ty was no longer in the picture. His Mom, a photographer who traded darkroom time for climbing time.
Then they moved to Los Gatos
I would see the Blue Gus one more time
he was in the Gunks and by the fates,
let two black six month old puppies get
out of a house on the edge of greater Gunks range, in mid summer.
That meeting was a test the I badly failed and your question
Makes me regret my stupidity for losing my temper.
I have been trying to find any of them, father and son, without anyone saying anything till you now.
Where is the written reference ? (Not mnt prjct)
His mom's new married name was Donna Compton, and she might know, her husband was Kevin I think but am not %100, sure, she climbed he played guitar.
Ty remains the question though , he left me a message once on a answering machine, it was a hoot. Now that I have kids I realize how bitter sweet the words were.
I had fostered in his son a climbing style that he was also a strong proponent of. and that he was calling to thank me for banging pins and forcing mixed lines in the middle of no-where as if they were front and center some where, Gus had shared that I had turned him into a Popsicle when the ice in the back left corner up there set up blue , Gus turned blue, Gus had a blue streak in his hair and my language was blue, so pardon if He, Ty, The Father, not the step-dad, Was Blue also!! it was a five years to late for the concerned dad routine, and a funny message.
This is my current girl friend she's sweet on me and I climb all over her
All most all of the rocks that I am posting are on public land and have been cleaned & climbed by myself
Some climbed on top rope, the ones below I have led. . . &&&The views when approaching Raven's Crest, Sugar Hollow&
|
|
jonnyrig
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
|
|
|
Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 10:28pm PT
|
Must have been around '85 or so...
My soon to be wife got a job teaching in Susanville. I came along for the ride and did part of my student teaching in Janesville.
Moved on to Greenville to work, then Taylorsville, then Bangladesh, then... other places.
Ti was married to another woman at the time, a nurse. She now lives in the GV area remarried. I see her every once-in- awhile mostly at the World Music Fest in July.
Ti...never saw him again after that so no I never met Gus. At least I don't think so.
We did do some weird sh#t though BITD that involved rocks and chalk. I remember climbing with this 1 legged dude and he'd dip that one leg into a chalkbag...
I spent many days wondering Plumas Co. looking for rock worth climbing. Not enough snow or climbable rock though...use to get tired of going to Grizzly dome. Guess I was spoiled from my days in Yosemite and the high country.
|
|
Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
|
yep...choss
too bad 'cuz it looks good on first viewing.
Found better rock up around Lake Davis...
edit....420 perfect:-)
|
|
jonnyrig
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2015 - 11:10am PT
|
Who wants to climb at the Sphinx area near Gerlach on saturday?
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
|
We are planning on heading out there is weekend but Sat is looking pretty wet right now. Sunday might be a better bet. Will keep ya posted.
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 05:21pm PT
|
I'm planning on being out there both days if possible. Probably do something unheard of; repeat as many established routes as possible with a direct finish to our first one. Climbing with my son Max, but would welcome a third to our party. I didn't get enough affirmatives for the campout, so kinda abandoned that idea for this weekend.
|
|
pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
|
I'm going to pass this time, Dr's appnt next Tues - want to see if there are positive results
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
|
Hey Laine, any new routes by you guys since last report?
We'll miss your company out there Bob.
|
|
jonnyrig
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
|
We are game for saturday, weather permitting. Sunday I have to be in Tahoe. Hoping to go camp out there for the weekend some time soon, maybe move a few boulders out of the road. Good luck at the doc's Bob!
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2015 - 11:03am PT
|
Rick - Nothing since that orange and black route I did with Tyson and Patrick which I posted up several weeks ago.
I've been planting seeds of how cool the area is in the minds of local climbers (no details though). Given the moderate nature and cool setting, it could actually see some action. Maybe in a year or two we will be ready to do some sort of press release of a tentative electronic guidebook. Tyson is really good at making that sort of thing.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
|
This is a place that I have just re-gained access to, IT Doesn't look like much does it?
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
|
& These are the way the camera saw it
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
Where'd the cheese go at?
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
|
Gerlach sounds sorta like broccoli, but i dig it.
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
|
Laine, let's just make sure that Tyson includes the Gnome's and the Cowboy's routes from ranges a bit further east. Perhaps Cosmic can be enlisted to illustrate the twisted nature of the climbs.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
|
First I phoned Cosmic and woke him up to say thanx for sending snow my way in mid-april,
Then I begged extra time to just down-load & up-load, NO photo shop . . . Yet.
whoot whoot ! I was able to climb, ground up - on sight - old school: three placements,In 148 feet.
( I was without any tools of any kind Not even a nut pick )
(Darn-it I did not bring the pinz n' hammer) wait that is after this at the startNice packs?Any one ever use the mom-jeans porta-sack?
my old friend who now says he would prefer to be called "Blind Lemon Jim"
Here is the start This sort of shot I usually post only if there is nothing elseOr asz well there he is in the treesI am really trying, the pics are what they are and I am glad to have them,
here this is pulling through to the middle of the crux: to a stance only ten feet from the top, maybe it will clean up?
( The pictures? probably not, and the route, yeah, it has a death flake that I left and some hollow sounding rock . . . )
the Bulging white outside corner, covered in Lichen leads out of the corner, the moves to the crux top-out - Bullit Hard Pudding Stone conglomerate a number 1 hex and a opposing number 4 stopper, at the lip, stand into the bushes and brambles, Watch out for the indigenous Bottle plants, they grow like that, right on the edge. . .
whaddya 'spect
It is New Jersey!?
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
|
After,
the call to that weirdo - Who sleeps anymore?-
The traffic closed in and seventy minutes of white knuckle NJ rush-hour driving ensued, with a lite dusting of snow, not sticking, but making the drive bumper to tail pipe,
This is the Sawmill River Parkway, red lights are announced by billboards, red light notices, 500 feet before the intersection of six lanes funneling into two, fun
Does any one remember, the legend, "Mr Sir", Jack Mileski, and the description his driving in NJ traffic?
People do this every day !!? The crux of the day will be the rush hour drive home mthrfkr Friday !
The rush starts at three and so no way to beat it and when I get home thin rations and no beer!
The blind photographer, wants to deny that he had a conniption and more than once told me
The equivalent of - get down from there & your gonna die , what will I tell your wife?
So
The name; Stress Test seemed to fit. Also this climb climbs right off the base of an old ski slope turned convention hall and park.
The climbing here at this part of the area is the lesser of the crags as far as difficulty but the ease of the approach and the availability of parking along with great view from the family park area, also were part of the name, the climb is center stage in front of old ski area ,
but no one climbs here.
That is to say climbs here the way it needs to be climbed - as in throws up new routes with volleys of 'Trundle Thunder' 5.10/b r, the other part f the Stress Test was to see if we raised any buzz.
The likely hood that the seam had been top roped was not borne out by my search for, moved rock,drift, brushing or anchors , rope cuts thru dirt etc. but the base was clear and the slab start had a very easy step up start. It was 5.7? easy 5.8? Three moments of really don't mess up here, 5.9? It is hard to tell until some more gardening, any-way, very R/X the way I led it but with three pins/bolts it could be G
I left a four foot long 100 pound block shaped like the head of a Marlin. The thing was so loose! that I feel bad that I left it. The thing sits at the end of some thin face moves over hollow rock, and a bit of a stand up Leaves it in your face.
Don't grab it!
The block sits with the spike side blocking good gear, it should go it is a death block!!
(I did not touch it but it is a perfect 'handle bar' hold if you only climb in a gym)
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!