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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 13, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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Easy descent followed by difficult police chase. It sounds like quite a pitch.
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John M
climber
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Jun 13, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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The slab is proper 5.9 friction - not 'it's a bit tricky in wall boots so we'll call it 5.9' - it's Ron Kauk and Dale Bard 5.9. It's also run-out straight off the belay. Mark will stroll up it in good conditions but it would be a different ball game in the wet.
Mark, what shoes did you have with you? Just curious as to how well they would climb full value friction.
Plus the wetness factor had to be a deal breaker.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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I had a pair of new 5.10 Verdes. The shoes are new and new to me also.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jun 13, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Bolts.... Just a few....Take out the X factor....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 13, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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Woo-hoo! PTPP Blend New Guinea Dark coffee from Mark Hudon! NOBODY roasts better coffee than Mark, that's for sure. Yes, please - ground for Dr. Piton's Shagadelic Big Wall Coffee Press.
It is inconceivable to me how that second pitch could only be rated 5.9. I had to come out of Free Climbing Retirement to do it, and it scared the p|ss out of me. There was very severe factor 2 fall potential straight onto the belay - it is definitely deep in the DFU zone.
When Neil and I climbed A.O. Wall last year, I got him to lead that bit, since I figured soloing it once in my life was more than adequate. He went up and left then right, which looked a bit easier than the way I did it, which was going up right then coming back left. Gads, I've got sweaty hands just thinking about it.
When are you arriving in the Valley? You know where to find me, right? Got the phone number?
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Jun 13, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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Bolts.... Just a few....Take out the X factor....
That is NOT the answer!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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I would, and did, call for a rope before ever placing a bolt on that slab. Drilling never even crossed my mind.
No, Pete, send me that number.
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BillWright
Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jun 13, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Hi Mark,
Just seeing this thread now, as I haven't been here in a long time. What a story. I love that you called for a rope at the top and I fully understand why you were crying. I would too, but I wouldn't have been there, as I'm no Mark Hudon. What a great call to make. Challenging yourself on big adventures is awesome and the stuff of life, but there is more to life than just one adventure and you had to come back to your girls.
We need to climb together again. I was just out there on Sunday doing my impression of a boat anchor while Hans Z-hauled me to the summit of El Cap. With I had known you were there beforehand, as I was just out for the day.
Rock on, Mark. I look forward to your Shortest Straw ascent!
Bill
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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Bill, l'll be there Sunday morning, getting ready to hump some stuff up to Shortest Straw. Certainly not real early and after the NIAFM (Nose In A Few Minutes) activities.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 13, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Is it true that Hood River Coffee and El Capitan Pictures are sponsors of the NIAFM team, and that at this very minute they're being outfitted with appropriately colourful togs at the mountain shop?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 13, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Anything but Red Bull.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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Who said I do any guiding?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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2 stoves and one pair of glasses? Live and learn, huh.
I know, eh? and they did they made the wrong lens so I'm still down to my one spare pair.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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This was part of the anchor where Iron Hawk meet NJ Turnpike. It was a mish-mashs of 1/4 inch bolts, rivets, pitons and a 3/8". Nothing a couple hours, some epoxy and two 3/8 inchers can't fix, too bad I didn't have the time.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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Markus, Mark and Marc.
Markus was the guy who fell on Tribal Rite and pulled a block down on his head, neck and back.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 15, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
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Are those belay glasses?
:)
Edit; on a serious note, my Dad is fifty seven and is getting back into road riding (cycling) like a fiend. He went from 150 to 130 in two months. He's averaging around 20 mph on avg 40-60 mile rides. Two hundred fifty miles a week minimum. The man is a machine, he's just built for it. I equate my dads return to cycling to Marks monumental ascent.
I think it's the consolidation of thoughts into a singular goal that they are both experiencing, and it seems to come at this age for people who have been athletes all their lives.
Hats off to you, Mark. You're an inspiration.
Hope you don't mind my analysis.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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Nope, if anything, I want to help convince people not to quit reaching for their dreams. The dream might sometimes need to be modified but keep getting out there and doing what you love is my point.
I ain't dead yet!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Yes, that was them.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jun 30, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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Mark,
Just read this entire account, proud work up there dude!
Thanks for all the anchor work, that is incredible.
Good fortune on yur next wall, and bring spare lens, fer god's sake!
Yur Pal,
Thor
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