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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2015 - 07:34pm PT
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The Phoenix Rock Gym has limited wall space left to be had, but I found another place to put a few display cases above the lockers. Since the two other display cases are loaded with mainly schwag, I created a eye candy display with a few fun wide crack devices.
The gear display is located above the lockers and another cabinet will be placed just right of it. The new schwag display is at the top of the stairs that lead to the old gear store, which we are now using as a climbers lounge. The other larger schwag display cabinet is located over by the beginner climbing area in the gym.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
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For Superbowl 49, downtown Phoenix was transformed into “Superbowl Central,” downtown Phoenix’s Super Bowl party, (just a few miles from my house). A huge 30’ tall x 100’ wide climbing wall was built symbolizing the the north rim of the Grand Canyon, with a waterfall in the center symbolizing the Colorado river. 20 climbers could climb at the same time for a cost of $5.00 per climb. The wall is called the “Grand Canyon Experience.” After the Superbowl was over the wall was donated to the city of Phoenix for future use somewhere. When the wall was being dismantled, many of the climbing holds were donated to Focus Climbing Center for their assistance with the climbing wall during the Superbowl event. So as employee Cody was washing the holds, he came up with the brilliant idea of donating a few of the holds to the museum. Through owner Joe’s approval of course! So big thanks Cody Abernathy for keeping the history alive! Awesome!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Feb 17, 2015 - 12:28am PT
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Marty my friend, in your "Gear display - left, Phoenix Rock Gym", your “Seizemo” was not made by CMI in 1970. In fact, it is a Seismo made by CCH (Dave Waggoner) in 1986.
All the rest just makes me think that you are THE Maestro! Hat off Marty for all your impressive work!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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Stephane, Thanks for the correction. When I was putting together the display I was looking through all of my CMI info and I could not find the Seismo listed anywhere. Now it makes sense! Because the Seismo is Colorado Custom Hardware. Wow 1986 and I thought it was as early as 1979. Thanks again Stephane!
Another question with the same display case, center far left by Goldline cord (tagged "Germany"), Salewa wide crack device that is two pieces held together by a large cotter pin. What is that item named and year created?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 07:34am PT
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What is strange is that on my cams display board the Seismo information is correct. For some reason my brain changed the info. I call this a Marty blonde moment!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Feb 17, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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The Salewa Panther-Klemmkeil was made in size 0 and 1 in 1980.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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Pysanka
Ukrainian eggs
Tools of the trade. I aways start with the Goldschlager. My mom and dad taught me how to make Ukrainian eggs when I was one year old. Fun and easy! Let me show you how its done.
Pick out a few colors and a few rock climbing company beer glasses, and prepare the egg dye.
The technique is to draw on the egg with melted beeswax. So what you want to stay white you cover with the beeswax. progressively you move up the color scale of dyes continually covering the egg with beeswax.
I am going to make four eggs so you can see the process. Two of the eggs I drew a pattern on with pencil and two of the eggs I will just freestyle. The best way to make the eggs is to not have a plan.
Here are the white eggs with the finished wax pattern ready to dip into yellow dye
Under the wax is white and yellow patterns, ready to dip in orange dye
Under the wax is white, yellow and orange patterns, ready to dip in red dye
Under the wax is white, yellow, orange, and red patterns, ready to dip in blue dye
The blue dye turned out a bit dark so I will stop here on the process. This is what the eggs look like once the layers of drawings are completed.
Using the candle flame, slowly melt and wipe over and over the wax off of the egg to reveal its cool design.
And this is what the finished eggs look like. Start to finish the four eggs took me just under six hours to complete. Even though I made mistakes the eggs always turn out cool, unless you drop it by accident.
This is the side view of the eggs. At this point I use a Dremmel tool to make holes in each end of the egg and blow the yoke out. Put the egg on a nice stand in a safe place, and it will last forever.
Happy Easter everybody!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Scott Newell sent me a few boxes of old catalogs, and within them is many gems!
A few more Chouinard and Black Diamond catalogs to add to the others shown earlier on this thread.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Apr 30, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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Scott Newell - thanks for donating!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
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Dief, the owner/janitor of the Phoenix Rock Gym was going through the dusty archive shelves again, and came across this old relic. Every time I sat on the top of Pinnacle Peak or the Monk on Camelback mtn, I would ponder at the one inch metal stud sticking out on each summit. The stud on Pinnacle Peak looks like somebody cut it with a cutting torch, and the Monk stud looks sawed off. I guess somebody in 1982 installed two of these large multi-use plate anchors, and they were removed shortly after. This is the anchor from the Monk.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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Josh at PIKA remade his Ibis and Spoonbill hooks, now in larger sizes. Yeah, they are monster big! A nice addition to the other PIKA hooks already in the museum.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
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Back in November 2014 I visited local climbing legend Tom Taber, who started climbing in the mid 1960s as well as collecting gear. Tom is well known for his many first ascents at “the Overlook,” a fun basalt crag in Oak Creek Canyon near Sedona AZ. As usual he showed me that his pitons are longer than mine and these I cannot have, (but I really want). But I was still able to score a few items for the museum, Czech ring angle and a Bashie made by Lee Dexter. Tom is also known for his amazing bottle walking abilities.
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Cool stuff, Marty! Thanks for all you do for the climbing community, and thanks for updating this thread.
Rich Jones
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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If you are into climbing competitions, there is a lot going on in Arizona. Back in 2007 it seemed like 95% of the gyms returning members were adults, but now with all of the large youth teams training at the gym, the percentages change to something like a 25% youth- 75% adult ratio. These days the 14 year old kids are showing the adults how to climb the 5.12s and 5.13s, and the rise in the youth teams have encouraged the demand for more climbing competitions. Yeah! The AZR team is huge, Rock Phenoms team is large and Rocks & Ropes/Bloc team is large, and more and more kids are joining the teams every day.
The Arizona 2015 year starts off with select youth and adult climbers going to the ABS Nationals which finishes off the ABS season. USA Climbing has two competition season programs offered to youth climbers, and has a separate adult open competition at the Nationals level. ABS is the bouldering season (American Bouldering Series) which runs from September to February, and SCS is the rope climbing season (Sport Climbing Series) which runs from February to July. The youth climbers have to pay a membership fee, attend two local sanctioned ABS or SCS competitions to make it into the Regionals competition. Win Regionals then go to Divisionals. Win Divisionals then go to Nationals. Win Nationals and show that you are one of the strongest kids in the USA.
Focus Climbing center in Tempe started 2015 with their 4 comp series. The comps are created for youth and adult climbers. Wednesday evening comps, great for testing your skills. Robert Olson attended and said the comps were fun with lots of focused energy. Joe Czerwinski was the host, routes set by Jack Lester, Justin Wagner, Cody Abernathy, Joe Czerwinski. Climbers received cash prizes and gym memberships.
January 14 Redpoint Routes
February 11 Onsight Bouldering
March 18 Speed Bouldering
April 22 Dyno Competition
March 7, the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe hosted a local youth SCS competition. Since this comp is early in the SCS season, USA Climbing allows us to have a redpoint rope competition, over the onsite format the climbers will see for the rest of the season. The reason we choose to do this is because the redpoint comp kids get 53 routes to choose from. The onsight comp kids will be only seeing 3 routes. For the competition we set 53 routes rated 5.7 - 5.13. Two hours climb time, top 3 completed routes for score. Since the comp is centered around youth, 75% of the routes were designed so the reach was no greater than 60 inches. Two of the 5.12s were set at 57 inches. My reach for example is 90 inches, so now imagine it is only 57 inches and course set a 5.12 where a youth and a adult on the same route will agree to its rating. This type of course setting is an art that many course setters do not have the patience for. I can mention names of many setters that helped teach me this art, but the measuring tape is the one in the end that always told the truth. If they can reach the holds, we have seen 8 year olds climb 5.12s. Totally amazing! I was the comp organizer, Robert Olson and I shared being the comp MC, and Cody Abernathy was lead course setter. Climbers received USA Climbing SCS ribbons to 7th place.
March 21, Queen Creek Boulder Comp #2 held at Oak Flat in Superior. Outdoor competition on dacite boulders. 6 hour climb time, top 8 completed problems for score, 400 problems to choose from. Comp packet, shirt, food, camping, fun, massage table, feats of strength competitions, large raffle. Large amount of volunteers, rescue staff, Director was Tony Cadorin and lead course setter was Mother Nature - somewhat tamed by Greg Varela. I was totally packed and ready to dominate at the comp but woke up with a nasty stomach flu. I tried all of the pharmaceuticals: the Echinacea, amoxicillin, Day Quill, Night Quill, the rest of the time Quill, chicken soup, then added the religious treatment using authority through the blood of Jesus, outside in my back yard flogging myself as I used internal centering for healing, and then by noon, I was throwing in the towel and unpacked the truck. The flu won! My friends called later throwing salt in my wounds by telling me how totally awesome the comp was. I was so bummed that I missed this comp! I met with Tony a week later for lunch and he surprised me with a first place QCBC glass cup, and the second and third place QCBC medals for the museum. Thanks again Tony!
March 28, AZ on the Rocks in Scottsdale hosted a youth local SCS competition. The comp was onsight format: 4 minutes on, 1 minute rotate, 4 minutes rest, 3 routes (Regionals format). Also speed climbing time trials were held. Ashley Anixter was the event organizer and Kody Alsadi was the lead course setter. Climbers received USA Climbing SCS ribbons to 7th place. Great routes and fun comp experience for the kids.
April 18, Thrash & Dangle Fest at the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe. This comp still holds as being in the top 10 best “everybody climbing comp” in the USA, and every year we put even more into it! Thrash & Dangle Fest was created to show climbers that climbing is a lifestyle. Not individual companies or rock gyms competing against each other, but everybody all in one building together having tons of fun! I will put the 2015 T&D story on a separate post when I get the photos together. 3 hour bouldering comp, top 5 for score, 129 problems, 7 sponsored routes, 7 climbing side events, comp packet, shirts, mfg tables, massage tables, food, shirts for the many volunteers, HUGE raffle and award ceremony. 96 sponsors. $10,000 in prizes. Participating in side events gain extra raffle tickets. I am the event organizer where Robert Olson and I direct the comp and gather prize donations along with Erin Orwig. Robert was the MC and Justin Wagner was the lead course setter. Climbers received cash prizes for Open category, product prizes for Age category, MK Productions ribbons and trophies, and Desert Rat Forge 1st place wood PRG plaques. Totally awesome comp! Thanks again to Three Ball Climbing for creating the Ninja Monkey Obstacle Course, and thanks to Four Peaks Brewery for the 26 kegs!
April 25, Beta Boulder Blast III at the Beta Bouldering Gym in Flagstaff. Local bouldering comp that is totally awesome fun! The whole gym gets stripped and reset for the comp! Great routes on large features and awesome climbing angles! Separate youth and adult comp. Adult Advanced finals showdown between the top three male and female climbers. 3 hour bouldering comp, top 5 for score, 63 problems to choose from. Shirt, food, raffle, Dyno exhibition, and party following the comp. Event organizer was Amylee Thornhill, MC was Tim Melnick and the lead course setter was Thomas Maxson. Youth climbers received mfg prizes and Advanced finals climbers received cash prizes.
April 25, Rocks & Ropes in Tucson hosted a youth local SCS comp. The comp was onsight format: 4 minutes on, 1 minute rotate, 4 minutes rest, 3 routes (Regionals format). Jason Mullins was the event organizer and Luke Bertelsen was the lead course setter. Climbers received USA Climbing SCS ribbons to 7th place. Great routes and fun comp experience for the kids!
If you are in the Youth SCS competition, Nationals is July 9-12
So thats what was happening on the comp scene during the spring of 2015 in AZ. Nothing is announced yet for the summer or fall months, but last year in the fall there were a few more fun comps. The fall also starts the ABS local competitions at the rock gyms.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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In 2005 I received a box of historical climbing items from Derek Marshall in South Africa. Derek is the owner of SKY climbing company that makes bolt hangers. In 2004 I gave a shout out to many manufactures that I was nearing 1000 different bolt hangers in my museum. I just needed a few more to reach 1000. I believe Scott Miller relayed the message to Derek, and Derek responded adding 40 more different hangers to the museum. Derek also included some homemade climbing gear items.
This collection of gear is homemade created in South Africa by Allen Luck and Craig Bester. Allen and Craig started climbing on the Buffalo River in East London independently of any other climbers. They did not realize that climbing gear was available in South Africa, thus they made their own gear which was copied from gear seen in a library book. For shoes they used Ninja Tabbies - webbed boots with separated big toe. Once a local Mountain Club was formed in East London, they crawled out of the woodwork at the inaugural meet. Allen and Craig opened up 15 routes on their homemade gear before they purchased new climbing gear. By 2005 Allen and Craig established over 400 routes each.
The laser cut stainless steel nut tool was made by Vincent Eagan in South Africa. The strange cut out shape is a baboon sitting on a rock. The company name is Paplo, which in Latin means baboon. Vincent also made chalk bags, rope bags and gear slings. The picture below is the harness Allen is rappelling with in the photo. It is made out of a seatbelt from an automobile. Snap the seat belt buckle together and off you go! Just don’t touch the buckle quick release button as you are climbing at any time!
The shoes are Rock Sport Mantras, the only shoe by 2005 that was manufactured in South Africa. The Chalk bag is homemade by Allen.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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The seat-belt harness is awesome.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2015 - 04:29pm PT
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I was digging through my storage and came across one of my bolt hanger display boards. Back in 1999 when I was a home husband changing diapers, I put together 20 or so display boards of bolt hangers, hooks and hand drills. This is one of the hanger boards. The first photo is the overall board, and photos below are closer up sections of the board. I posted this also on the "Bolts from the wayback machine" thread.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2015 - 10:41am PT
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These are a few FISH catalogs from the 1990s. When I first started climbing and collecting gear, I discovered a unique company named FISH. I was the excited collector looking to score some FISH hooks and ordered them from the climbing store. After 9 months had passed the hooks would magically appear and Keith, the owner at Desert Mtn Sports, would present the prize items to me. The moment always felt like confetti and balloons should have been falling from the ceiling. It didn’t matter if you prepaid for the FISH item, the prize was actually receiving it. Over time I developed a system to ordering and receiving FISH product items. First order the item, second is to keep the faith for 9 months and through the cosmos let Russ know that you are indeed worthy to own a FISH product, and third is the confetti and balloons dance. Thanks Russ for the fun over the years. Hi Susan:)
I never was able to land the FISH zebra Swami. Two years ago Misty Mountain Threadworks completed that order and surprised me with a Zebra Cadillac harness.
Tear……finally……….it’s awesome!
Pitch three on Moonlight Buttress that leads up to the rocker block has a broken bolt which required us to use a Doubloon. It is a wild feeling hanging off of a single thread on a bolt that broke when you have quite a lot of gear and ropes dangling off of you. The Doubloon actually worked amazing. The only downfall to the Doubloon is the sharp scoop would eventually cut through the sewn webbing. PIKA Mountaineering came up with a solution by putting their webbing in a separate hole. PIKA is the item with the yellow webbing. The climbing party above us didn’t have a Doubloon so they used tent poles as a clip stick to bypass the broken bolt. There are a lot of tricks to be learned for good aid climbing.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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For the last two days I got to hang out with Terri Laine, who is and has been the schwag manager for Patagonia Clothing for the last 30 years. She did not draw the logos, but is the director with everything involving working with the artists, creating company banners, stickers, frisbees, product labels, lip goo labels and basically a touch of her is in every Patagonia product. She has been creating beautiful historical shadow box displays for Patagonia, and has now become the Patagonia archival manager. We toured the insides of the Karabin Museum but her main interest for sure was the Chouinard display at the AZ Hiking Shack. In the photo you can see that Terri has found Chouinard gold. Terri mentioned that a Patagonia gift box is on its way to the Karabin Museum........tear!
Thanks for the fun Terri!
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