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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 08:36am PT
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It's interesting that the newest Vedauwoo guidebook (Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn) re-establishes the 5.13a grade for Lucille, whereas the earlier guidebook called it 5.12b. Some other climbs that I'm familiar with have been downgraded in the new book: Left Torpedo Tube from 5.10d to 5.10a; Right Torpedo Tube from 5.11c to 5.11b; October Light from 5.11b to 5.11a. Big Pink stays at 5.11b. Not used to seeing hard, older climbs actually downgraded in newer guidebooks. I'm assuming that .13a is what Jaybro and Mike originally rated Lucille (I should know this).
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Quick, name three 5.10 offwidth cracks that are harder than Left
Torpedo Tube.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Bummed to not be there to cheer you on Eeyonkee.
Uhh...
God Speed
May the force be with you
Good luck
Break a leg
You can do it (think Adam Sandler movies)
Send it dude
nothing but a thang
get er done
Prod.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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You're not coming Prod?
sheesh after all this hype I was hoping you were up for a lap.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Gotta work Goat.
I've been waiting for a permit from Boulder County since June 29th. I'm picking it up today and working 6 days a week for the next month or so...
Prod.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
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That's right, Scuffy, last time I did Left Torpedo Tube was with you. Whaddya' think - .10a? If you mean of the .10a grade, I'd say Main Street (Vedauwoo),Honeymoon Chimney (Utah desert), must be one in Yosemite.
Gonna miss you and Christa, Prod. Thanks for the sendoff!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Hey Grug, if you coat your chest hair with polyurethane and come it downward before it dries it will act like human velcro. Sorry I won't be there. Get er dun!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Phil, you're just jealous of his manly rug, my wife loves mine.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Hey, Grug, I initially said 'easier' when I meant "harder", then edited.
I can't think of a 5.10 offwidth that I have done which is harder than
L Torpedo Tube.
Left Torpedo Tube is, I think, harder than Maria's (5.10C) Vendetta (5.10b) Steppin Out (5.10d).
Same rating for Mainstreet and Left Torpedo Tube?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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Main Street is 5.10a, and ...hard, almost certainly a sandbag. Left Torpedo Tube isn't .10a. Maybe it was a typo - kind of a big one though, considering the relative prestige of the climb.
Also, for the record, Big Pink is a sandbag at .11b.
-Edit - Thanks for the tip, Philo. And I'm off.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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This thread has left me completely exausted but it will all be worth it when you succeed in your endeavor (means when you climb Lucille, the one at Vedauwoo). I would like to thank CMac for believing in me and not pulling the plug during the excruciating parts. It wouldn't kill you to wish Grug well on what has single handedly saved your website from bankruptcy. Make sure you bring your pillow Grug and get a good nights sleep or you don't stand a chance in hell. I await your telegram, good luck, have a great time!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Site 12 you deadbeats...
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Prod
Trad climber
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News? Update?
Prod.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Go crush Grug! Have fun everyone. I look forward to the photos!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Particularly if the Stout Silverback took any of my Sage advice.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Grug is currently experiencing the best of the blues
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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As I posted on the HH thread, you lucky folks at Lucillefest, check the
sky tonight--major solar disturbances, might lead to the northern lights!!!!
Go Greg, GO!!!!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Well?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Well?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!