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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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I don't know Ron... Looks like you may have missed your golden opportunity. You coulda made a mint and been set for life if you would have only marketed that "custom" harness. Anyone interested in making a fashion statement would have had to have one.
Mike - that's a good picture of Skip's Arete. Nice.
Re: Laker Girls. Good deal Johnny.
However, maybe it's nit-picking but, uhmmm...
Several days, cool temps, hit the moves perfect, shoes one size too large (not sure I would have thought of trying that), the perfect dosages/mixtures of heavy fuels, and exactly the right background song. Sounds like a trivial 12a there.
Seriously though, good job.
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Since he was wearing my shoes I suppose I should get partial credit for the ascent? Or does that mean that I should be able to do it in my own shoes?
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Did John W Call that 12a did he? You guys are killing me. I actually put some effort into Laker Girls, then I couldn't even do Detroit (only 1 try), which "feels" to me like 12a. Laker Girls is harder...
Sorry I don't get here very often. That wasn't me in JT near Echo.
And yes I was being sarcastic, we did some more work on the landing for Death Vomit. Bring one pad and your good.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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Here's the quote:
While working it, I was thinking it was mid to hard .12 but on the send, it felt like .12a.
Now, I've been around long enough that the words "while", "was thinking", "was" (second time), "but", "like", and "12a", all in the same sentence raise a red flag. I see what's coming so I took a pre-emptive jab. (Just trying to give a good natured hard time.)
Bad Boys seems to be consensus 11d/12a. I only tried Laker Girls one time but that was enough to see a difference, a harder difference - IMO.
On the other hand, ratings can be a bunch of smoke and mirrors anyway so it doesn't really matter much.
And yes, your shoes should get you up Lakers Girls. I plan to borrow them if I try it.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Now, I've been around long enough that the words "while", "was thinking", "was" (second time), "but", "like", and "12a", all in the same sentence raise a red flag.
Not to mention the key verb phrase, "working it."
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Damn right I had to work it and I clearly stated so. I can't think of any hard, technical slab climb that is onsightable, especially without chalk on the holds, if you can even call them that. Almost all of them seem impossible first try as there are no visible holds. You slowly find the subtleties, body position and hand and foot placements that make the sequences possible. Then, if everything is perfect, it all comes together and you're at the top screaming at the top of your lungs. The best feeling in the world that no one can take away from you.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Great Job Josh and crew.
Many thanks!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 12:20am PT
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Cool, Josh. Paint removal is a job (having done it). Luckily Woodson hasn't been overwhelmed to where there is/was a ton of it to do.
Johann - Fact about you being up front regarding what was involved. Call it what you want. It's cool that you sent it.
On the bottom line, ratings don't matter all that much anyway. They can be hard to make sense of, and we sometimes seem to take them way to seriously. Perhaps the most useful aspect of them is that they give us something to endlessly debate when bored or unable to get out.
The best feeling in the world that no one can take away from you. Yeah, the rush of a send that was personally difficult to achieve. I want me one of them.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 10, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Bump for Woodson!!!:)
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 10, 2011 - 02:18am PT
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Gotta throw this in there just because it feels good just looking at it!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 10, 2011 - 02:39am PT
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MP wins the Jr divsion and a rope at Woodson BITD. I forget the year...Mike?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 10, 2011 - 09:38am PT
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Johannsolo, Have you had a chance to tick off "Syncopation" yet?
It's a very cool problem and well worth doing.
It's an "Eppi" classic located in the outer S.E. reaches of the "playground"
It's rated an ambiguous B1.
Would like to hear what the V rating might be?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 10, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
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I think it was '81 Ron cause I hadn't yet turned 21...(Even though I'm drinking a beer!)
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 10, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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I just got on Syncopation last Sunday mainly after seeing your earlier post. It was pretty hot that day and it faces due South but was making progress. The pinch up on the arete was just not sticking good enough. I was pulling on and smearing with my left foot just above the overhang. I could then bump my right hand up to the pinch but got stuck there. I see in your second photo the left hand going up on the arete. I'm stuck working in Northwest Ohio for the next few weeks where it was -10 this morning. Definately on my list though as it is a great problem.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 10, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Your post photo is Stem Jem Mantle? HARD and BA. How about Iron Man mantle up at South ridge?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Feb 11, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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Watusi, I was cleaning out some files recently and found a flyer along with the list of problems for the Great Western Bouldering Contest....Oct 18, 1980....location to be announced. Was that the one ?
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blr
climber
socal
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Feb 14, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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Pretty hot up there today. After warming up on the Painted Boulder, our group found some shade on Hard as Nails, which Eliot fired off solo. After a little exploring, we then settled on this thing, which none of us could finish. Anybody know what it is? It's in a corridor on the outside of the switchback by Double Scoop.
After some tips shredding, we moved down to "Cast of a Thousand Stones", which is a really cool line. Eliot and I did a bit of work on the cheatstone start and then both sent first try. Sorry, the site won't let me post the photo.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 14, 2011 - 03:45am PT
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Hi Lynne! Yeah that was the one...It was one day before my B-Day, (10.19.1960) so I would be almost 20 in that shot...It was a big day for me as I got to win Junior Men's, while my all-time hero JB walked with Senior Men's, and my long time friend and Super Climber Mari won it for the ladies...I sometimes get a little misty remembering some of those times for sure...Peace, MP.
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