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Avajane
Trad climber
Seattle
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What a huge loss to his friends and family, and to the climbing community. I didn't know him, but I brushed past his life several times over the years. Once on Fairview Dome in the mid 80's, he cruised past me solo while I was at a stance. He was very polite and gracious as he excused himself. Of course he didn't know it, but a few years earlier (79 or 80) I was stuck in Tuolumne and had put up a note looking for partners to climb 5.9's with. I got a reply with his name on it saying "I only climb 5.11, after pre inspection." So I guess he did climb fleetingly with me - and only on a 5.9.
He was "the" climbing hero of my generation, and we feel his passing deeply. It seemed like he was always climbing the hardest, the fastest, and the boldest on the biggest stage at the time, Yosemite. Most climbers like myself couldn't try to emulate him - we could only shake our heads in awe. So much of what he did was so ahead of it's time.
If I ever get to do another first ascent I will name it after him, as long as I get the balls up enough to do it in good enough style. His was the best!
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Couple of thoughts that struck me as I keep coming back to this thread.
You don't hear any creeps saying that what he did was stupid or reckless. JB was just that solid. Anyone who's seen him climb knew he was solid.
Also, I'm straight, but after seeing a grip of photos of JB, I have to say, the man could rock the short shorts!
Hope you're smiling down on us John - climb on
TC
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amyjo
Trad climber
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I was just thinking about Bachar this afternoon out at the Leap.
Putting my foot so carefully, remembering him putting his foot so carefully, way the hell up at Joshua Tree. So brave, so doing what he had to do. That 4th of You Lie post. Brave again. Tonight I'm hearing that saxaphone out in the parking lot. So sorry.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sitting here in the dark, eyes open, mind open...thinking,..wondering. What were his thoughts that day?
How do I feel? My family doesn't understand,..can't make them.
I barely knew him....from a long time ago.
I wouldn't have expected to feel SO much at this time, but it's strange....and I do.
There are times that stand like towers, where you don't forget.
I'll always remember where I was:
The day my father died.
The day John Lennon died.
The day Jerry Garcia died.
The day John Bachar died.
I didn't expect this.
The Lure of Little Voices, by Robert Service, 1/16/1874-9/11/58
There's a cry from out the loneliness -- oh, listen, Honey, listen!
Do you hear it, do you fear it, you're a-holding of me so?
You're a-sobbing in your sleep, dear, and your lashes, how they glisten --
Do you hear the Little Voices all a-begging me to go?
All a-begging me to leave you. Day and night they're pleading, praying,
On the North-wind, on the West-wind, from the peak and from the plain;
Night and day they never leave me -- do you know what they are saying?
"He was ours before you got him, and we want him once again."
Yes, they're wanting me, they're haunting me, the awful lonely places;
They're whining and they're whimpering as if each had a soul;
They're calling from the wilderness, the vast and God-like spaces,
The stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole.
They miss my little camp-fires, ever brightly, bravely gleaming
In the womb of desolation, where was never man before;
As comradeless I sought them, lion-hearted, loving, dreaming,
And they hailed me as a comrade, and they loved me evermore.
And now they're all a-crying, and it's no use me denying;
The spell of them is on me and I'm helpless as a child;
My heart is aching, aching, but I hear them, sleeping, waking;
It's the Lure of Little Voices, it's the mandate of the Wild.
I'm afraid to tell you, Honey, I can take no bitter leaving;
But softly in the sleep-time from your love I'll steal away.
Oh, it's cruel, dearie, cruel, and it's God knows how I'm grieving;
But His loneliness is calling, and He knows I must obey.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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I just heard about this shocking news tonight, on my way home from the Sierras. First, I found out my brother in-law died yesterday evening when his car crashed in Malibu Canyon & then 5 minutes later, I get a flood of text messages. John Bachar died at the Dike Wall @ Mammoth.
I could not believe what I was reading. My very first climbing trip to JTree, John soloed Bearded Cabbage like it was 5.8. I had never seen such boldness before & I was amazed that he could be so calm, yet so bold. Later on, as I got to know him, I saw how focused he could be, but he could be a silly, goofball a minute later. He was priceless. Goodbye & RIP my friend.
WBL
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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I only met John a few times when I was much younger, but was always struck by his graceful relationship with gravity, his playful bond with stone and his passion for working magic in the mountains as naturally as possible. The pure wildness of his legacy and the magic he created together with so many rock monoliths will surely live on for the ages in a funky mountain beat carried on by Sierra winds, those incredible thunder clouds and the folk who like to crawl around where its steep.
I know it must be hard for those closest to John, he was truly a hero to many of us in the community of climbers
E
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Damn- I was out soloing the last two days-
even as a recent entrant to climbing I was was soon steeped in the lore of jb. Of all the elite that have gone down while I have been involved (4 years) this one is the heaviest in many ways for me-
life is a deadly thing
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dave gill
climber
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Tragic news.
I only met John the once, but was immediately struck by his generosity, his passion for climbing and his incredible story telling ability. Here's a video extract from the interview we filmed with him in July last year:
http://steepmedia.wordpress.com/2009/07/07/john-bachar-1957-2009/
My deepest condolences go out to John’s family and friends.
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darod
Big Wall climber
South Side Billburg
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What a terrible loss. My deepest condolences to his friends and family...
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TMO
Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
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My heart really goes out to Tyrus and Johns family.
Someone once told me; You can never "get over" the loss of a loved one or "move on"... one must learn to live with the loss and the memories.
I never knew John but certainly new OF John, and never realised until now what an influence he was to me.
I implore you all- Honor the hero's among us while they are here to bask in the glow of it, life is too short, shower them with the love they deserve!
I keep reading and re-reading the words of the indomitable John Long;
"He completely dominated the cliff with his grace and confidence".
Troy Moss
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radair
Social climber
North Conway, NH
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Very sad news. Thank you all for the fine photos, both new and old, especially Phil Bard's shots.
A very influential man. Condolences to his family & friends.
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mattly trent
Trad climber
bear valley
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A great light has gone out............I was awed by John and his style.........talked to Brenda Lugo yesterday and she was devestated! Never got to climb with John but on a few occasions got to play music with him, always wanted to record something with him..........going out doing what you love is the best way to go! John, you have inspired thousands to push forward.....good on ya! time to put some Coltrane on. Mattly Trent
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captain chaos
climber
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I'm left speechless... and am overwhelmed by flashbacks of good times I've had with John over the years. Since I just learned this news, it still hasn't sunk in that he is gone. I'm especially sorry for your loss Tyrus, this will not be easy for you. If there is anything I can do to help, please do not hesitate to contact me. Sad and speechless... your fathers good friend- Craig Calonica
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Words fail. Peace to his son and all those directly involved.
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morgan nutting
Trad climber
sacramento ca
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Met John Bachar when I was living in Bishop. He had always been one of my all time climbing heros. Couldn't have been a nicer guy.
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Niekolaas
Trad climber
Utrecht, The Netherlands
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very very sad news, my condoleances to everybody who loved him!!
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midi510
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes
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I've waited to post, just being with the reality of what has happened and reading the other posts. Enjoying the photos too. I won't be writing this to John, he's not focused on the internet now. It's for those who just didn't get enough of John while he was here.
I didn't know john like most of you did. Yes, I'm a climber. Having grown up in Mammoth how could I not be. The first time I encountered John was early '80s, I was just seconds off Vice Gripped/American Wet Dream when when John came running off the route. A quick nod or hi and he was off in the distance. No doubt to another route. With common friends and moving in similar circles, we never really met until after he moved to mammoth. In the mid '90s my [then] wife Kathy who worked with Val, was telling me of visiting them after work and how this guy was a really good and pretty well known climber. There were even posters of him hanging around. The backyard set-up too. It's interesting that after admiring him as a climber all those years I would come to know him more as a parent than anything else. I couldn't believe when Kathy told me they were having a baby. She said not to tell anyone. I don't even know if John knew at that point. I was one of the first few people in the world to know that John Bachar was going to be a father. I think I was the first person to ever baby sit Tyrus away from his home. Definately his first overnighter. Tyrus had me and my (4) kids in stiches at dinner freestyle rapping.
I can't tell you a lot about details of john's life, when we were together we mostly just shared the space. We were comfortable just being together. If we talked it was most likely about microphones or recording techniques or a mechanical design. One day he came to me and said he needed a trade show booth. They cost about $4,000 and weren't very strong. Could I build one for half that and make it better. Well, it was a rush job and I wish I cold have made it to my usual standerds but Salt Lake City was happening and I finished it just in time for them to pack it up and hit the road. I'm sure many of you have seen that booth. I made some money, but was mostly just happy I could put some love into his new venture. It even survived the crash. (Which I thought was the "instead" of what has just hapened.)
Super long posts a drag so I'm cut it short(er). I'm don't care for people all that much, but I can honestly say I loved and liked John. Whenever we talked in Vons, I wanted to just go off together and talk about something important. Or just give him a hug, which I never did. We really never got down to the good stuff. Maybe it didn't need to be spoken. Val, if you're reading this give me a call 914-0999.
Kirk
p.s. I can't leave this without relating how more than once I would be out somewhere towards Crater Flats cutting firewood and after shutting the saw down, hering sax notes wafe through the forest and knowing - who else could it be but John.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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We'll miss you, Johnny B.
You have been an inspiration to this era.
We're sending you good energy in this time of passing.
your friend,
John Middendorf
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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ouch, pretty bummed out here. john was no less than my total hero for the way he climbed and stuck to his guns. while on the rescue team in the 1980's in the meadows, he influenced us to make some of the sickest runouts ever. as far as i know, my route "burning down the house" that i put up with kurt smith has still never been repeated. for kurt, scott burke, scott cosgrove, john middendorf, and others, his ethics instilled a sense of pride that to climb these runout routes, one had to be fully commited in the mind as well as the body.
in later years, when i talked to john by phone, i could tell that having a son had mellowed him into a kinder, gentler, john bachar. i'm so sad that i will never get to talk to him again, but his legacy will last forever. whoever has ventured onto the bachar yerian knows what i am talking about. john, you were the greatest, thanks for teaching us that climbing is not just about the difficulty, but that it is also a cerebral path to enlightment. ciao for now brother, steve schneider
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