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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Feb 11, 2007 - 11:50am PT
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The solution is in today's SF Chronicle!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 11, 2007 - 03:12pm PT
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I bet Werner's got one of those things for rescue rigging. This just shows how useful climbing gear can be when you open your mind to the full potential of uses.
Back to the Mooselette:
"As for the number of biners with tight bends, take another look. Of the 6 biners...one of them is completely fixed (due to the limiter knots on the middle strand). So there are really only three biner interactions at high angle.
It isn't the number of biners with tight bends that matters for friction, it is the number of tight bends in the system. When I look at the Mooselette diagram, I see three movable strands at the power point biner, one from the left anchor to the lower limiting knot, one from the right anchor to the lower limiting knot, and one from the left anchor to the right anchor. These three strands plus the two bends at the left and right anchor biners make for a total of five friction-inducing bends in the system, as well as whatever effects the binding of the three powerpoint strands produces. Moreover, I wouldn't completely discount the friction contribution made by the other two biners; it depends how you rig the Mooselelette.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Feb 11, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Regarding the Mooselette: Yup, three moving strands through the powerpoint. What I'm just not clear on is whether or not it matters how much each strand moves. Because two of those strands move only like a millimeter per foot, and typically in the same direction as the main moving strand.
GO
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raymond phule
climber
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Feb 12, 2007 - 07:23am PT
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Nice rig rgold. It should be easy to use. Friction could definitely be on issue with this and many (all?) 3 piece setups.
"now that we are learning how bad the cordelette is, even with just two equal length arms"
The worst load distribution in the equal length arm test was 39%-61% i.e. the force in one of the arms was never less than 39% of the total force. I dont belive that this is that bad.
I think that it should be interesting to see tests performed for a 3 anchor rig, both static and equalising.
The link you posted suggested that friction playes a large roll in a setup like yours. It is hard to say what happens with a larger load and dynamic case. I think friction plays less of a roll then but I am not sure.
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