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WBraun
climber
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Dec 28, 2007 - 09:36pm PT
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LOL, OK Chris
But can he rap?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Dec 28, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
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Radical,
“Point well taken and I have no problem with that to be honest.
But my job is making snap decisions about people when their lives are involved - and I'm very good at it..
So I'm confident I'm probably right or at least partially right.
Easy to be loved when your a teacher or leader and that is the point of my post.”
You know what, that’s fair. I don’t agree with you, but on both our parts that’s unlikely to change and probably won’t be able to change outside of real life interactions. I would also argue the point that teaching and leadership are more difficult than your initial appraisal, but ultimately that’s not what I came to post about in the first place. Thank you for your concession to not speculate publicly about Mark in absence of first hand experience. I do wish you well. =)
Snyd,
Holy crap! Is that the real Slim Shady?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 28, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
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If he can't rap, does he just downclimb?
My comment about "nobody" thinking of freeing the Big Slab in 1982 should have been more at, "Nobody had made a serious attempt at freeing the line". In other words, there wasn't a bolt belay anchor at the top of a first pitch.
I guess they could have belayed and retreated from hooks.
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Peyton Hassinger
Big Wall climber
Raleigh, NC
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Jul 15, 2008 - 01:29pm PT
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"Incidentally, where are the tall claims of clean/hammerless ascents of Zodiac these days?"
Pete: FYI my brother and a friend did a clean ascent of Zodiac shortly after the Hubers cleaned most of the fixed gear. It is do-able.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Nov 11, 2008 - 09:22am PT
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Bump
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 15, 2009 - 01:30am PT
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I gotta bump this again - one of my top 10 threads ever.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 15, 2009 - 07:07am PT
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Look, the bottom line is this; Mark & Richard’s mistake was they were outsiders from So Cal. And didn’t spend the time necessary blowing,asking and begging the Valley boy’s (SAR) aka the stone Nazis of the time, for permission to do the route that none of them had the ball’s to do in the first place. THEY JUST DID IT ! And it just pissed off the whole little valley world.
I was there! I heard all the bullshit first hand and was a eyewitness.
Oh and for all you as#@&%e that don’t know what the f*#k you talking about and weren't there.
Blow Me. You know who you are!
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Aug 15, 2009 - 10:07am PT
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So, has there been a second ascent?
Did Ammon and PP do this route?
Trying to find a TR.
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Btown
Mountain climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Mar 12, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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Wow, I have now been reading this topic for like three or four hours. Fascinating story, really. Now I admit I dont really have much to offer here. I am not an aid climber and, sadly, have never even been to Yosemite. It seems like a big portion of this argument could be solved with a SA. Now, much of this back-and-forth was going on in 2005 and I am writing now in 2011. Has anyone repeated this route? I am guessing not because I haven't heard anything about it. I imagine news like that would spread quickly.
Side note: I read a funny April Fool's post (I cant remember if it was here or on Mountain Project) that claimed two spaniards climbed WoS free, spray painting the good holds all the way. HaHa!!
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tooth
Trad climber
The Best Place On Earth
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Mar 13, 2011 - 12:28am PT
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If the crappers hadn't done their thing, had the 'locals' accepted the climb, we would have had other people accepting that it was possible in their minds, and would today have seen not only a second and third ascent but more routes along these lines...
Just like the 4-minute mile.
If someone had crapped in Roger Bannister's shoes and influenced society to think that it was no fun, bad style, or too scary to run then it could have been at least 30 years before anyone else would have seconded a 4-minute mile. Like sport/bouldering etc, people simply would have started running off-road, or uphill without fully pushing the limits of track running.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 13, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
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What an amazing time for this thread to suddenly come to life.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 13, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
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The crapping was over the top. but somehow the four minute mile analogy seems a bit specious. imaginative though.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Mar 13, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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I'd like to know who the crapper was. I suspect from all the secrecy, it wasn't your average joe-blow climber but someone who was a bit "respected".
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Mar 13, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
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What an amazing time for this thread to suddenly come to life.
Thinking about a go, Pete? Get some hot-shot like Honnold or Caldwell to free the bottom section and you take over up top.
Get 'er done!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Mar 13, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
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Say it. I never even heard a rumor of who it was. That always surprised me.
You know, if you're going to state you opinion so strongly, what could you call that person who keeps his deed a secret except a hollow coward?
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 13, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
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If someone crapped on me intentionally, they would be kidnapped in their sleep and forced to eat my poo. Crapping on someones rope is vile and disgusting. Out the crapper and make him account for his shame.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 13, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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Dr F, be chill, no need to call out the Bro's. . .Anyway I was at the base and needed to relive myself. . .
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Mar 13, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
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I don't care who did it, although I've known since that summer.
I want to know how they did it. I mean, saving it up, holding in and letting it out at just the right time? That's takes talent, serious talent.
Performance art, really. Like a real-time spackle fresco.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 13, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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Three Locals, two shitters, one of them couldn't go as he'd been to a cheesefest the night before, he dumped a can of beans instead.
As to how? ever had breakfast at the Cafe?
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