Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
|
|
Aug 24, 2012 - 09:38am PT
|
Thanks for the TR, this was one of the places I learned to climb and I'm glad to be reminded of it.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2012 - 09:59am PT
|
Maybe we are still on that darn thing, bush whacking and lichen scampering.
I like that image. Or sitting on the penultimate ledge, still waiting for strength to crawl up that last pitch.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
Oct 22, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
|
Yesterday I went into Whitehorse ledge to find virtually every route wet or seeping except for the one we wanted to get on, the Hotter Than Hell to Inferno link-up. Perfectly cool Fall temps and colors.
I hadn't done these routes in 25+ years, and lucky me I got the sharp end on all four pitches.
I used to camp off an old logging road in a quiet spot in the middle of pristine forest somewhere around the two small sand traps in this pic. Restore the forest! Burn the McMansions!!!
A party on "Hotter Than Hell" on the appropriately named Tranquility slab.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
|
Lovely pics, Edge. That's definitely one of the fun routes on one of the funnest parts of the cliff. I always get high breathing in the afternoon views from up there.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
Oct 22, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
|
I did my very first multi-pitch route, ever, at Whitehorse when I was 16 years old.
Whitehorse has a special place in my heart.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
|
And since this thread has come 'round again, I'll give away the old story's ending. Cowpoke and I did complete the Girdle Traverse back in 2010, on that hot July day.
We were plenty wasted sliding down the rope at day's end.
|
|
perswig
climber
|
|
Oct 23, 2012 - 08:26am PT
|
Pretty pics, Edge. I envy you your HTH day!
Was that crux move into the notch a bit weepy? Always raises the ante a little.
And for some reason I really like that last awkward Inferno pitch, although none of my partners seem to share my enthusiasm. Hmmmm....
Dale
Edit: yep, there's been some chatter about Longstack on NEClimbs, with a reference to the MP database, I think. My summer's been full of 'should go' and few 'did go' places, but the locals seem excited about your new routing, so it'll get added to the top of the list. Glad your new trajectory is working out.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
Oct 23, 2012 - 09:33am PT
|
Dale, the whole route was dry except for one little seep down low on HTH and moving into the vertical crack/ flake on Inferno, both pretty easy to step around. Virtually everything else on the cliff was a soggy mess. For what it's worth, I didn't find the move on HTH into the niche to be nearly as bad as I remembered. Pretty casual actually if you just commit to it without over thinking it.
My partner enjoyed Inferno's last pitch immensely, although I found the feet to be a bit slick; still I didn't think it was an 8, felt more 7ish to me. Outstanding positioning though, and an uber classic link up for sure, made me wonder why I hadn't been on it again for so long, but with all the other stone to be climbed around here there is never enough time to do it all. I spent almost all year developing and new routing on Longstack Precipice, which is phenomenal and only 15 minutes from my new rental home. You should check it out; full route lists and grades are on Mtn Project under the heading "New Durham Area."
|
|
perswig
climber
|
|
Oct 23, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
|
Pretty casual actually if you just commit to it without over thinking it.
Nicely describing a lot of climbing, and a fair bit of life.
Dale
|
|
The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
|
|
Oct 23, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
|
I missed this thread the first time around so am enjoying it now.
I climbed there for the first time this year (eaten alive by black flies Memorial Day weekend). I had never climbed/walked up slab before and the runout pitches of the Standard Route were a new experience. I was much happier leading the arch on P5 with the excellent crack.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 09:39am PT
|
Yo Edge- you must remember when HTH didn't have the last bolt ? Matt was pressured into placing one final bolt because of the "runout" !
I did the traverse WWAAAYY back, my first multi pitch route with Tommy C
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 10:37am PT
|
So that's why HTH felt more run out in the 80s! I thought it was just that I'm a cooler climber now.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
Oct 25, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
|
Yo Edge- you must remember when HTH didn't have the last bolt ? Matt was pressured into placing one final bolt because of the "runout" !
Yes John, that bolt was not there the first couple times I lead it. Definitely changed the commitment level a bit when it appeared.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Jul 21, 2018 - 09:51pm PT
|
NEster bump
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|