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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Grahm wrote:"Nothing wrong with the guys who find a new crag keeping it to themselves for a while to pick their cherry lines"
And when we get the moderates out of the way, We'll get you to come over and send the hard stuff Grahm.
Soyo dreamin'!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nice job Micronut!!! Thanks for the video
Fun route!
Grahm thanks for the pics, keep em coming
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Sweet video Micronut. Really captures the vibe of early morning sessions and how special sunrises in the Sierra can be.
NoRush - Good guess but, they're not from that area.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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"Randy, are you thinking about 'Think Nothing Of It' (.10b)? Put up by Cam, Lenni and Barry in '03? The first 25' of that route are tough while the remaining pitches are fairly moderate. "
I might be, Dave. Things are really fuzzy for me in the mornings and I'm bad with route names. Pretty sure I've done both, although the route you describe sounds more like the route I was thinking of.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Thanks for reminding me to wake up earlier!
Nice Video, Micro.
I like the Les Stroud camera angles;)
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Hey I'd prolly be interested in that Salsa Fest if it's an open invite. I have a bunch of packets of Taco Bell Spicy Red Sauce floating around in the back of my truck. I could pitch in a few if you need. Born and raised here in the "No" but have never been out to Shuteye. Would be stoked to see the place with somebody who knows their way around. Keep me in the loop if you can.
Scott
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dick,
> Lets see some crack pics.Wheres the "Love Supreme"of s. Yos.?
I haven't been there that much, but from browsing the guidebook and photos, it does seem to be mostly face climbing on domes and some steep walls. Not every area gets a Love Supreme, or lots of steep cracks like Yosemite, Tuolumne, Needles, Donner, etc.
There may be some stuff at Fuller Buttes, and a little at Shuteye.
There's a nice looking 5.11/5.12 roof crack to arete on the right end of High Eagle - The Eagle Has Landed 5.12b.
Also Matt's new route, Storming the Castle 5.11+, on Gray Eagle - see his page for photos:
http://www.southernsierra.org/grayeagle.html
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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"... but have never been out to Shuteye."
Scott, you poor deprived lad. Tollhouse is magical but Shuteye is the next dimension my friend. You are sorely missing out on pure unadulterated heaven. SoYo is truly dah shizzle. BTW, hoping to get out to Tollhouse this Friday with Mrs. Mooch and Tiki-Ger for some slab time. Wandering Taoist comes to mind! ;)
Mark Haymond did several notable roots on T-House back in the 70's. Still active too. One of the OG's of SSCA. However, he's hung up his skates these days. Still hangs off walls with dirtbags like me.
Mark (right) after finishing the FA of Tollhouse Traverse....in skates.
Mark enjoying the ping of iron on pitch #2 on 'Bear Claw Headwall (5.8, A3), Kerkhoff Dome. Love them Frost knots!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Not wanting to screw up this magnificent thread too much - but since salsa has already been mentioned - heard from an Oakeydokian friend that El Cid's salsa apparently poisoned about 15 people last Thursday.
Madera County Health was there on Saturday to check them out for nasties in the food.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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next to the 'Tower of Love,' Dick.
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kev
climber
CA
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Can't wait till spring....
kev
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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You guys might want to bring wetsuits Mooch. I think we are in for more drizzle all week. I'm cool with that 'cause the Sierra Summit Telefest is Satuday and we could use a little fresh. Lets totally get together sometime. Keep me in the loop and we'll make it happen. I'm totally for getting into Shuteye as soon as the snow melts. I have no idea why I haven't been up there yet.
And by the way. Mark isn't t he only one who rolls in style.
Yours truly on a random day at Sierra Summit last year. And yes...that's a cape.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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too nice Grahm. looks perfect for slinging knobs to drill from. :)
usually they're big enough that you can keep running up the route, no drill required and leave the sling in place.
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Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Lake
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Me, a sand-bagger! Look I'am a gate-out lifer. Yah I'm totaly out with it.
Howdy Doody Time should be a "must climb" 3 star. The way I see it, there is at least 35 to 50 feet of sustained 5.9 on the second pitch. I think it should be at least 5.10a. however I did not have anything to do with the 2nd pitch, only the second assent.
The first pitch on the other hand. My wife I were graciously invited to try a line we spoted to the belay bolts. So we did, and OMG it was a bold first. The only piece of gear was just off the start ledge and put in just so I would not crater the trail 20+ feet below the start of the route. Bolts were added later. I have returnd to climb this route every year (if not on the IL).
Sand bagging is more a gate-inners trait ie, "Loaded Gun". O-ya I went there!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Sorry Cam....more like 1/2 a star. That's one of Tollhouse's dirtier routes. Flakes peeling off and decomposing rock....with a nice touch of dirt! Dood...are we even talking about the same root???? Now, 'Think Nothing Of it'....that wasn't too bad....second pitch needed a bit of traffic but all in all....good stuff.
Give Roger Hayashi a call.....he lead HDT. Strong leader I might add.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Love those Tollhouse face routes.........
Frantic Mantic.....I believe??
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Yep, Frantic Manic....all of .10a! I beleive 'Free James Brown' is immediately right to it.
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Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Lake
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Yeah it can be dirty after it rains. It's a water steak but when you add the lose flakes, it's like every time you climb it, it feels like a first assent. There is no guessing how the route felt to the first assent team. You just can't find that kind of quality on trade routes.
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Grahm... I'll take Wall #1 please.
Damn! That's worth sending the wife and kids to Disneyland for a week.
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