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lucander
Trad climber
New England
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Sep 12, 2011 - 05:43am PT
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Great job on Three Wogs, I bailed off the first move on that a couple springs ago.
No pictures on my TR, but just had two great days at Poke-O one some of the best new routes I've done this season. Cooney-Norton and Cosmopolitan Wall are both full-value harder and better than they looks 130+ foot trad climbs, each involving all kinds of intricacy and trickery. We also did The popular Sting, PR Corner (whoa, felt like 5.9+), tr Macho, and wrapped up on Ukia - a 40 foot bolted face that would get *** if it was half a rope length and at Joshua Tree (micro edges, bumps for feet, slabby, golden orange rock).
DL
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2011 - 09:09am PT
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I bailed off the first move on that a couple springs ago.
I bailed off a couple or three decades ago, for some reason I thought it might have got easier. Glad to scratch through this time, but I don't think I'll lead that again.
Sounds like a great trip to Poko.
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perswig
climber
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Sep 12, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
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The anti-Band M.
Where were we?
Great area for beginners and rookie leaders.
Giveaway feature, and giveaway view.
Built this waiting for turn in the 'chimney'.
Proud first-lead wounds.
Dale
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 12, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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911
« on: Today at 09:14:51 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote Modify messageModify Remove messageRemove
Ten years ago yesterday Isa and I left her cabin in VT and drove to cannon cliff. It was dark, misty, windy and threatening foul weather for the first 4 pitches of Moby Grape. It felt so alpine. It was the first time I had been on moby and Isa has a poor memory at times so it was a grand adventure for us both. The cliff was almost deserted. Peter Dowd was on lakeview for a bit with his girlfriend but they were gone early. The canon parking lot was empty. I was sitting at belay just below the fickle Finger of fate when the sky started to clear. That perfect crystal clear colbalt blue sky that we would all see for the rest of out lives as the planes hit the towers had finaly arrived at cannon cliff on the stiff wind that was buffeting us up high above a deserted Rt 93. There was still few high clouds moveing fast against that deep blue. A single police crusier with lights and siren passed southbound. I ate my coconut candybar alone on the cliff, Isa coming up 100ft below me, a flight of military jets were the only planes we had seen all day. I had a sudden premonition that our world was fragile and oue existance on it threatened. Isa arrived and up we went. Lunch on the ledge above the finger, we topped out and then missed the good trail down enduring a henious spruce thrash. It was well after dark when we got back to the cabin. Panicked calls from family in europe prompted us to turn on the TV just as a re run of the impact was playing. We both cried knowing that our world would never be the same......
Yesterday we woke up in the van a few miles from the cliff. Cooked breakfast in the dark and hiked up to moby. A super nice couple that had bivyed there let us go first.. We had the rout to ourselfs again but were well aware of the crowd chomping at our heels. Fourtunatly us old farts were able to get some distance and keep it. able to finish up the climb in solitude and not worried about being passed. it was wind, cold and alpin again but the cliff was crawling with human ants. There was a flag flying atop the remants of the old man. Rt 93was super busy, the Canon parking lot was mobbed and it all felt pretty darn normal despite the fact that our country has streatched its self way too thin and turned way too angry from fear....
Isa following P3
Us at the top of Moby Grape..
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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Dale, I know that cliff, home to New Hampster's most photogenic short 10a. But we can't tell anyone else.
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steve shea
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 08:57am PT
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It's right across the road from Pinkham Notch parking area.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2011 - 09:04am PT
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Well, yeah, that's no reason to distract folks from Rumney.
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steve shea
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 09:36am PT
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I live in Wy,. Rumney is a long way besides there aren't many bolts. When I was in NH this summer I saw a 600'/700' crag nw of Berlin! Any info on that? Also, Chiloe or anyone I'll be in Franconia in Oct., wanna climb? Contact via pm. SS
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cowpoke
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Dale, that little stick person with the basket of berries is awesome.
edit to add a super-mini-northeast TR: Took my 14-yr-old nephew for his first day of climbing, a couple weeks ago. Really fun to see his eyes get big and round with that unmistakeable look of "I never knew this much fun existed!"
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Sep 13, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Steve, Is the crag you mentioned a slabby dome basically above the town of Berlin? If so, I remember eye-balling it several decades ago, but not being too impressed as it seemed low-angle and somewhat broken-up. However the main problem, and the prime reason that I never returned, was the overwhelming stench from the paper plant below. I'm sure that the locals were so used to it, that they didn't notice, but it sure chased away us outsiders. I believe that the paper plant is either no longer functioning or has cleaned-up it's act, so it may be much more tolerable there days. Undoubtedly routes have been done on that piece of rock over the years, but it is unlikely that it has seen any serious development. It is just one of many reasonably accessible but little developed crags in northern and eastern New England--just that bit too far from "civilization".
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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Nice all! Thanks for sharing!
Perswig, what ever happened to your adopted (and released) varmint?
GO
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
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The paper mill was defunct for a few years but I believe it is being reborn as some sort of alternative energy power plant.
I bet Chuck Woodman and Jack Dorsey (North Woodstock) know all about the routes there. Ty neclimbs if you want the 411.
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steve shea
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
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Al, no. But I know both the crag and the smell you speak of. The smell is gone with the demise of the mills. The crag I saw is maybe 10 or 15 miles nw out of Berlin. I can't remember the route #. It looked really clean and south se facing. I started to hike up but the bugs were really bad that day and did not have my stuff anyway. I grew up in Franconia and finally did climb on the crags at the top of Lost River pass. Really good! hope I'm not giving away any one's secret crag but it is good. I can't find any info on that either. Al, wanto to climb in Oct? SS
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Sep 13, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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Steve- you need to get in touch with Bayard Russell, maybe through cathedralstyle, his blog
He did a really sweet looking 11 out in the woods near berlin. Also tons of stuff off Sucess pond road 500-600'
You could even go to some spots in western maine.
Square ledge is pretty good with an easy walk in
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Sep 13, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
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Hi Steve, In that case I'm not sure of the formation you noticed, but as John/Slabbo said there are plenty of little-known but interesting options not far from the North Conway "honeypot". I remember climbing a couple of good routes a few years ago with Steve Angelini (not FAs--they were already established)on a dome not far over the state line in western Maine---3 pitches each IIRC. I'm likely to be pretty tied up in Oct., Steve, but there is always the possibility that my schedule could open up for a day and I could do something spontaneously. Try me again when the dates get closer. Alan
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Sep 13, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
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THE Steve Shea ??? Supecouluir BITD ?
You need to check out the Captain, off Saywer river roadin crawford Notch
It's SO awesome, trust me 600' and so good. not many routes 3-6 pitch 5.8 and 11a a3 hour in
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steve shea
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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Slabbo, the Supercouloir was a long time ago. I was by sawyer rd a lot this summer. How do you get to the crag? It sounds great. Thanks. SS
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perswig
climber
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Sep 13, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
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Cowpoke, that's a pretty little buttress; looks great for a first outdoor climb or lead. This season's been pretty low-key, but I agree, introducing a new climber to our world is fun, too.
GO, our food stash for Hester failed to dwindle after the first several days, so either she eloped with a smooth-talking dirtbag boy squirrel with his own supply of organic, free-range, MSG-free granola ... or she entered the food chain prematurely. I kinda wish I had notched her ear as a wee thing to at least try to ID her when I've been out there since.
Chiloe, great shot of the arete. I led that several years ago before I realized how soft I really am and have always found an excuse not to do it again.
Nick, nice memories and pics. Isa's a babe, too.
Dale
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
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For nor'eastern types, the new Climbing has a nice photo section on NE 5.10s. Some of my favorites are there (great shot of Atlantisf), and prolly some of yours too.
Wallface and Moby Grape make appearances too in a separate article about long 5.8s.
I'm realizing that the art of climbing photography is to make things look harder than they are, instead of looking easier than they are in the typical belayer's-eye-view up or down shots that I take.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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Indian summer weather in the NE last weekend, I'm sure just about everyone got out. Here we see Cowpoke and JimE on the Gallery Arete.
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