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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Some of us actually had girlfriends at the time, and so not all necessarily had the hots for Tami.
Yes, the Little Smoke Bluffs - a nursery for Peter C. and others. From 1978 through to the mid 1980s he spent hundreds of days there, soloing up and down routes. He rightly believed that if you were going to solo up things, you ought to be able to solo down them. It helped to form a very sound base for later adventures. A lot of well known climbers may have similar places in their roots.
Self-bumped, so as to comply with Eric and Jay's order to bump history threads.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 24, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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From my first trip to Squamish (81/82?) with Bryan Burdo, I remember meeting a group on the spur of the old highway under the Chief. There was Tami and... some others. John Stoddard must have been there because he later left a note to Bryan on our windshield. I think he climbed Cruel Shoes.
One rainy time in Leavenworth we saw a car with a rat drawn in the condensation on the rear window. Next day we weren't the only ones who thought of at least one dry climb.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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Some things never change.... (hee hee hee)
Bomb Shelter, on the east side of Grand Central Tower?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 24, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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That picture of Simon T., Tami K., Peter C., and A. Nother a few posts back is something special.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 24, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
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I thought it was Hamish with Tami and Peter at Peshastin. Of course that might be mistaken.
I do remember that Peter, who I knew was into doing much longer things, said something complimentary about Bombshelter when I asked him how he had liked it. Definitely a good-energy person.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 24, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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It is definitely Bombshelter. At the time, it would've been rated 5.10+.
Jim Donini did the ffa. Great route until it turns into vertical kitty litter.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 24, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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"Wrong
Henry Barber"
Really? That's interesting. I didn't know Barber had even climbed at Peshastin. I'd always heard it described as a Donini route.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
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Washington Rock Climbs (Smoot, 1989) says the FFA of Bomb Shelter was by Barber, in 1974. Earlier guidebooks don't provide FA or FFA information. Jim Donini is on ST occasionally, and may be able to comment - if he sees the thread.
Still no guesses regarding where the picture of Bruce F. was taken? (About 30 posts back?)
As far as the red button goes, one word: gondola.
Bumped per Karl Baba and MisterE's command.
Later I may post something about bolt chopping, convenience bolts, and Penny Lane. We haven't had a good thrash about such atrocities lately, though I'm afraid that no rap-bolting was committed.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2009 - 02:43am PT
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Tami and I conferred tonight, and decided we simply MUST know who klk, BJ, and pip the dog really are. Please send PMs.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 03:14am PT
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we simply MUST know who klk, BJ, and pip the dog really are
uuuuse the Taco, lazybones
BJ
has signed a recent post of his
klk
has >900 posts, that should give a clue
I like:"people are mining the couch for quarters to get airfare to the place you live (Vancouver)"
pip
Please do not tempt him to risk his membership in the UNnamed climbers club.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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OK, found Mark. What about the other two?
Plus there are two outstanding puzzle questions that no one has interested. Hint: The photo of Bruce F. is from the Valley. Where?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 25, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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Sorry, didn't mean to be anon. I guess my full name is in my profile on a couple of the other sites. klk=kerwinleeklein
there's a couple period photos (at larrabee) on the shining sea thread.
haven't posted much on this thread cuz i didnt get to squamish until '80 or '81. bud miller (from b'ham) was my 1st partner there. i climbed mostly with scott young, jean bonner, andy b, gordie a bit. peter a fair bit, hamish a few times. tim and stuart, later. tami will remember me only as a grommet.
i knew randy a bit, perry better. joe b and that crew. doug fir, etc. jim c of course. anders, i think we met once, but it would've been only briefly and ages ago, and the memory is pretty fuzzy. lots of sq memories, but they'll presumably fit better into an 80s thread. most of the pix are lost, unfortunately.
lived in vancouver on and off for a year or two. haven't climbed at squamish since 89 or 90, my last trip. then i was mostly hanging at pet wall. got back to lighthouse with scott a few years back.
i run into peter on the eastside occasionally.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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The photo of Bruce F. is from the Valley. Where?
Anders, even I recognize the dark formation uppermost in the pic, but I passed on my turn.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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Bolting controversy. Picture puzzle, Yosemite oriented. I'd have thought for sure those'd generate a few more bites.
Here's the photo again:
Anyone?
With regard to Bomb Shelter at Peshastin, Jim D reports on another thread that "Mighty Hiker, I climbed in the area but a little later- around 77 or 78. If Bomb Shelter is that 11- in Peshastin I believe it was freed by Henry Barber and considered the first 5:11 in Washington."
I think Jim actually lived in Leavenworth then or a bit later.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 25, 2009 - 08:04pm PT
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Knob Hill (not sure what route, though - I don't think it's Pot Belly)
compare to a shot from 2005:
Pot Belly
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MH2
climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
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Clint has turned his powerful searchlight on your game, Mighty Hiker.
Here is Ian B, son of one of the Squamish Hardcore, climbing in the same vicinity in May 2007.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 26, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Ding ding ding!! Yes, Clint is the winner. The photo was taken somewhere on the upper part of the Knob Hill cliff. I was soloing up some modest route, and grabbed the shot. Bruce is the person who nicknamed me Mighty Hiker. And I guess that Knob Hill is a good cliff for people with Knock Knees. Both my brother and I have them, and are regularly mocked for them by a certain climber-cartoonist. She ceased and desisted when we threatened to hold her down and tickle her until she wet herself.
The Little Smoke Bluffs became something of a core to our climbing community. The place you'd go first in early spring, and last in late autumn, and sometimes in winter - when everything else was wet. Sometime in the early 1980s the "Smoke Bluffs Morals and Ethics Committee" was invented, in a sort of tribute. What happened was that some Vancouver climbers - few if any lived in Squamish then - started to go to a peeler bar, the Cecil, on Wednesday nights. Essentially to drink, and yak about climbing. It turned out that no one watched the peelers, plus the beer was cheaper at another bar - and perhaps, as more women started to be involved, we didn't really want to be at a peeler bar anyway. So sometime about 1981, we started going to the Ivanhoe instead.
The Ivanhoe is a bar quite close to what is now the bus station, in the centre of Vancouver. In a fairly gritty neighbourhood, not far from both Chinatown and the notorious downtown east side. The area has since improved a bit, but then wasn't so great. But the Ivanhoe let us take over a corner every Wednesday night, and we usually had the same waiter, a big guy named Ian. The management and the usual patrons were probably a bit puzzled by us, but all was well. A few times the more adventurous of us visited the American down the street. Another seedy hotel with a bar on the ground floor, and a sinister name. It was the local biker bar.
The Smoke Bluffs Morals and Ethics Committee met every Wednesday night in these unpretentious surroundings. It's a bit blurry now, but I believe that at one time or another, all the world's problems were solved there. Except for some of the knottier/naughtier climbing problems, where a great deal of smoke and heat was evident, but not necessarily a lot of light. Still, it was a great common denominator, and a chance for everyone to talk about what they'd done and planned to do, see the gang, and at least try to sort things out. Usually nothing important, in retrospect - at worst, minor transgressions.
I wouldn't claim that we were all angels, or all got along smoothly. Not likely, with an energetic bunch of (mostly) adolescent (mostly) males, doing something we were passionate about. There were real and imaginary rivalries, we sometimes got on each other's nerves, and there was the odd hissy fit. But the Ivanhoe provided a sort of leavening, and social scene, that we otherwise only tended to get when a big group went to Leavenworth for Easter or Thanksgiving, when we'd camp together and have fun.
Sadly, we stopped going to the Ivanhoe in spring 1986. Expo 86 was in Vancouver, and essentially took over the neighbourhood for six months. After that, we never really reconvened. Maybe we were all growing a bit, too, and our lives were diverging as they tend to do.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 28, 2009 - 12:43am PT
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"...some where on Knob Hill..." tsk, tsk, tsk, do the classics not get done anymore?
I believe the thin crack is the top of Knob Hill Rapist, 5.8 FA 1973 Chuck Pratt, Tim Auger, & Jerry Anderson
the other one is the top of Deception Gully, 5.9 FA 1973 Chuck Pratt, Tim Auger, & Jerry Anderson
we, Eric Gable, Gary Carpenter and I, put another route up there, a bit farther east, called Bumblies on Crumblies, fastest bolt I ever saw go in, and it held a hard fall by Eric too! (so BOMBER!)...
I think Eric might have at least one more up there... and Grant was looking around for new stuff too....
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MH2
climber
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Feb 28, 2009 - 03:30am PT
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other one is the top of Deception Gully
You aren't saying you can identify the climb in the May 2007 picture, are you?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What happened was that some Vancouver climbers - few if any lived in Squamish then - started to go to a peeler bar, the Cecil, on Wednesday nights. Essentially to drink, and yak about climbing. It turned out that no one watched the peelers, plus the beer was cheaper at another bar - and perhaps, as more women started to be involved, we didn't really want to be at a peeler bar anyway
Anders, the Cecil wasn't a peeler joint when we first started going to it. I think I probably first went to the Wednesday night thing in '75 or '76, and at that time it centered around the British crew that had emigrated to the Vancouver area. John Howard and co. The move to the Ivanhoe came because of the Cecil's decision to bring in strippers a few years later. I doubt any of us objected too strongly to the stripping, but the loud music that came with it made conversation tough.
And next time we get together (at Wayne's place?) I'll arm wrestle you for the right to claim the first unrecorded ascent of what later became Digital Dexterity.
Hmmm. You're probably still bigger than me, so maybe arm wrestling is not the best choice. Maybe beer-drinking. I was always better at that anyway.
In any case, I was wandering around the bluffs one day with John Wittmayer and Corina. They had some project in mind, so, with nothing else to do on a pleasant Saturday afternoon I started up a thin crack. They got back from whatever it was they were climbing in time to take this shot:
There wasn't any sign of a previous ascent.
D
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