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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 10, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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oh man, Fletch, I thought I ran into you at the Meadow's shoot! way too many people met this weekend for my poor brain that never was good at remembering names...
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Nov 10, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
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hey ed, although i introduced myself to you in el cap meadow on sunday, you seem to have my name wrong. your references to a rick snyder in your pictures, i actually recognize as being me, steve schneider. and then the wife, she actually is heather baer, but don't worry, i can hardly ever get it right either. ciao, shipoopoi
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 10, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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#10 STEVE Schneider (?)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:00am PT
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hi Steve, yes I remember, but you panic'd me! too many names to keep straight.
So sorry for the missed ID...
I called Kevin Powell, Michael Powell probably an hour after being introduced by Lynne. It is truly embarrassing to me!
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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Ed, and Lynn, it was nice meeting you in the auditorium on saturday. I also finally got to meet Karl Baba.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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nice to have met you too, 10b4me (another Steve!)
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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I'm real bad with names too.
Who's Steve Schneider ....?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:08am PT
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Steve Braun's brother.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:10am PT
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ed, more names to the face
2 marianna florine
5 pierce florine
6 jeff cunningham(rad videographer)
9 Schree yeager
30 Nick Rosen
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:21am PT
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Also, shout out to 10b4me
AND Mike and Tara ..... told ya once I remembered I would never forget you guys. Tear up Tucson ..:D Mi Casa Yo Casa, Lynne
just call
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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6 of the FA team at 50th Anniversery of Ascent
George Whitmore, Allen Steck, Wayne Merry, Wally Reed, Ellen Searby, Rich Calderwood
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:57am PT
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Making this event was wonderful and a fun time was had by all in the midst of so many remarkable climbers.
Steve G getting sigs from some of his heroes.
What an honor to meet these men. Having dinner with Mark Powell and the Reeds was great fun.
Chris Jones is such a fine fellow.
And these characters are too much fun (Haan, Breedlove, Pettigrew, Hartouni). Can't wait to see them again.
I hadn't seen Schneider in years. And meeting Ellie was an honor.
Don Lauria on the left and Rick Sylvester. Hearing Rick talk about those Bond movies was a treat.
This perfect rainbow was over Reed's on the way back to the airport after the Meadow gathering.
Can't wait to see you STers again soon!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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Yo, Mimi
Grate to meet you ! Come on by.....Really, Lynnie !
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 01:09am PT
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Hey Lynne! It was great meeting you in person even though we didn't get to visit very long. I will surely look you up next time we're in SoCal.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 12:05pm PT
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Thank you all for coming and making it a wonderful experience.
Ken
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Roger Breedlove...It's nice to finally put a (handsome!) face to a name. The rest of yous that I already know, it's fun to see you all out there having fun. Thanks for posting your pictures.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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Hi Ken,
Thanks for organizing the reunion. It was great to see the 50's climbers, none of whom I had seen since the early 70s. It was also lots of fun to see old climbing partners.
But there is one burning question: Did Wally Reed really tell us on Saturday night that after he pulled on and broke one of the early hemp ropes, that he climbed up to the broken end on those ‘pitons’ and started prussiking?
I don't know if I want to hear that that is what happened or that I heard it wrong.
Best, Roger
Amendment: So, where were you Melissa? Peter and I were sort of disappointed at the newer, old climbers turnout, not that we ran out of things to say after 35 years.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
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Hi Roger,
That is what he said. That was a part of the story I had not heard before. That sounds terrifying.
It was great to meet you finally.
Ken
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 11, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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That is (almost) unbelievable. Is Wayne or anyone else still there to confirm it.
Nice to meet you also, Ken
I had a nice chat with Rich Calderwood. It turns out that we both had freed routes on Phantom Pinnacle. He and Mike Borghoff
freed the left side, Regular route, in 1957 at 5.9, and Mike Graham, Jim Bridwell, and I freed the Center Route in 1976, at 5.10d.
We also talked about the psychology of committing to long climbing projects in the midst of real life.
Rich told me that he was very unsure if he wanted to commit to climbing the Nose while his wife (Cookie, I think) was caring for their new born. He agonized over it. Finally, she convinced him to go. But he was not comfortable with it, and it continued to worry him as they climbed in September and October of 1958.
In the November push, he ferried a load up to the upper camps and spent the night but couldn't reconcile himself to his decision to stay. The next morning, without discussing it with his climbing partners, he bolted, leaving all of his remaining gear on the ledge. As he said, "...burning my bridges. I couldn't prussik back up."
As I was listening, I realized that I had had two similar experiences, which I shared with Rich. When I finished graduate school, I was hot to return to climbing and had planned to go the Moose's Tooth to climb with John Lee, my good friend in SF. We had purchased all the gear and supplies we needed, bought the plane tickets and arranged for a drop off. M and I had also had our first daughter six weeks before. We flew back to my parent's house in the Bay Area to visit and I prepared to go climbing.
Finally it hit me. Life had changed. I couldn't just leave my wife and new baby and go off risking my life for some fun. I backed out and paid off the cancellation charges.
I also recounted my experience of backing off my solo of the West Face of the Captain. Things were going fine. I was moving fast and climbing really well. And then I skipped taking a swig of water and a handful of gorp between pitches and got a little lost in the cracks after the big traverse. As I was hauling, the bongs I had tied to the underside of the bag got snagged and busted loose, clanging to the bottom of the face. I didn't need them to finish, but within a few seconds, I decided to go down and just started reversing everything. It took most of two days to get off.
Rich had been listening intently. Then he leaned in and told me that when he had ferried up that last load, he had passed all the goodies to the other climbers and was left with a tall can of juice. He pantomined poking holes in either side with a can opener and then taking a big, satisfying drink. He covered the top with a napkin, stuffed it into the crack, and bedded down for the night.
The next morning, he grabbed the can of juice and took a big swig.
He gagged on a mouthful of ants.
That was the instant he decided to go down.
Seventeen years separation in our experiences, plus another 33 years in the remembering, and nothing much had changed.
We both had a good laugh.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
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Cool stories Roger,
Ken
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