Figures on a Landscape

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rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 19, 2016 - 07:48pm PT
I put out a guidebook in April '80 Dee ee. I moved to AK in early '82 and never was involved in any updated guidebooks thereafter. If I had still been in the guidebook business and you had reported it to me I can assure you I wouldn't have ignored your good efforts. Where was the route anyway?

BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Feb 19, 2016 - 08:46pm PT

Save your tears for when Trump has his truth filled tongue hopelessly enmeshed around your paltry nuts in a gordian knot. That is worthy of tears, not this 38 year quest for some hollow glory that is just not yours.

Hahahahaha

who said the innerweb can't be fun?!
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Feb 19, 2016 - 10:35pm PT
OK Rick.
I'll try and figure out where it was. In my records I only have the date and name.(9/81 Rebel Music (3 o'clock Roadblock)). 5.9R with Tom Smith.
It was quite aways to the right of Fantasia and that stuff. The biggest blank area of 1981.

Maybe if I can find the old guide......not that anyone cares.

The week before we climbed at Eagle Lake Crag and the week after we were at Sugarloaf/bun.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Feb 20, 2016 - 12:01am PT
I really can't remember when it was 81 or 86 seems more likely the later with BIG Al and his girl Katie Wilkerson. ( I also flashed Silent Scream,----)
. I was tagging along in typical Gnome fashion. The locals had been having fun trying to see if I'd cheese grater or crater - Go cartwheeling off the end of the traverse.
I did neither, linked the last 2 pitches. Then went on & led Solid Gold the same day.

I was a floor resident at Gordos for two weeks? I can't be sure. But the locals will know.
Scott Cosgrove was there at Gordos. I think part of the time?
I remember meeting Scott and trying to get him to share a rope.
He declined day in and day out eventually soloing my objective
in front of me, -the Right Ski Track-


- Both , Figures . . . . & Solid Gold. . . Some real estate
A proud day to be sure.


My old Gnome memory....not that I was blessed with a good memory chip anyway, and buds
did not help the cause.....
The things I remember Most were that the locals still were not impressed or maybe they were. It was at a time when in the the Olympics were in LA? ( now I'm not sure of year again, '84?)
I fancied my self a barer of the vulgarian torch from the Gunks.
I wanted to name a climb The Ole' Limp Prick Rings.
At the time Big Al an' Gordo knew politics And Randy Vogel.
I don't think Randy smoked or liked off-color names, Todd told me that. So we had come up with a name - politically correct, and relevant to the news of the day.
It was when then Pres Ronny Ray Gunn, had started to call his line item veto power
- Pocket Veto - -https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pocket-veto/105859263
That is how the name was picked Gordo And Big Al and I named it.
but I led the FA of that Rigg - without the bolt, we had agreed,I think, Gordo went back & added it ?
I was glad the bolt was there the next time, (the next year? ) that I did it.
It was solid 5.10 & very R/X on the FA, without the bolt.

The things I can rember was that Cossgroves spelling was weak on his 3X5 cards, where we recorded FA's for Todd to pass to Randy . I can't remember if I met Vogel?
If we met it was when he came over to the Gordo Ranch to pick up the 3x5 cards with the harvest of new routes on them, is this ringing any bells?
the date of 1988 is the Retro-bolt date.
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Jun 16, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
Figures on a Landscape

If a memory foundational to identity is proved false, then who and what and where are we?

By Brad Rassler

http://sustainableplay.com/figures-on-a-landscape/
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Jun 17, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
LOL!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 17, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
Great stories on this thread- I'm only a tiny bit into it and already like a handful. Especially enjoyed the inner dialog on yours Scuffy.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 17, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
Wow. A good line I never reached but always admired.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Jun 17, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
Dave and I are psyched for the upcoming 40th anniversary ascent, assuming we can remember how to find the Astro Domes.
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Jun 17, 2016 - 09:01pm PT
after new information from Wikileaks....

I'm positive that Yabo and Cox actually did the FA!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 17, 2016 - 09:20pm PT
Dave and I are psyched for the upcoming 40th anniversary ascent, assuming we can remember how to find the Astro Domes.

They are off to left of the turnoff. Or maybe to the right. They are those little pointing things. If you need help ask Todd.
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Dec 6, 2016 - 11:30am PT
Reading these stories about FOnAL remind me of one of my funniest (translate as "stupidist" - is there such a word?) moments ever.

My friend Lou and I had climbed the first pitch, and were going to bail (don't remember why - it was well within both of our limits).

The climb originally had a belay point at a flake, that others deemed unsafe and had bolted another belay point slightly lower and to the right of the original anchors. I don't remember how we did it, but I rapped off the anchors at the flake and reached out and clipped the lower anchors for Lou.

From below we decided I should hold the rope in case he fell, so he wouldn't have to endure a big pendulum.

Being the strong man that I am (ha) I grabbed the double ropes from below at the base of the climb and facing downhill, I placed my feet against a big log to brace myself.

Lou started climbing down, and as predicted, promptly fell. As he swung down he yelled "falling," and as agreed I pulled the rope tight with all my might to lessen his fall.

Suddenly, the rope stretched and then tightened, much like a rubber band, as it launched me into the air downhill. The placement of my feet, while well-intentioned (it seemed like a good idea at the time) actually caused me to create more force in the rubber band effect, and I shot about twenty feet face first into the logs, boulders, and bushes below. I came out of it looking like I had fallen into a cage full of squirrels, little nicks, scratches, and gashes all over my hands, arms, and legs.

From his vantage point above, Lou later recalled watching me as I flew like Superman down the hill. It seemed funny, despite my pain, as he stifled his laughter recounting what he saw.

You know the old phrase, wasn't funny till someone got hurt.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jan 4, 2017 - 09:15am PT
Happy New Year to the visionaries, Randy and Dave!

G'damn Fry!!! Yabo did it first. Vogel and Evans took the reins and finished it off in a fine style, even with the added bolts. Quit yer weeping over this pile.

Save your tears for when Trump has his truth filled tongue hopelessly enmeshed around your paltry nuts in a gordian knot. That is worthy of tears, not this 38 year quest for some hollow glory that is just not yours
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Jul 21, 2018 - 08:41pm PT
“Progress not perfection.”
Messages 281 - 294 of total 294 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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