Valley Giants

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rrowsam

Trad climber

Grand Junction

Sep 3, 2017 - 08:58pm PT

Got my Merlin a couple days ago! S/N 32

Got to say, pretty impressive. I've used a VG9 on maybe a dozen routes in the desert (not mine) and have generally been super psyched on it, but I'm super stoked to have the Merlin for all the reasons you'd think. Almost always using this size cam for aid anyway, and it's not made from wood so I trust it enough to take a fall on (though I hope I never do).

I have a couple questions for Erick. What would you recommend the best storage method; locked or open? Will the springs weaken if I were to keep it locked primarily?
Also, what are your thoughts on anodizing the cam assembled? Is there risk of weakening the brazing or other joints?

Thanks

edavidso

Trad climber

Oakland, CA

Sep 4, 2017 - 10:45pm PT

That's a fancy napkin holder!

Thanks for another great photo, Nutstory.

Rrowsam, good questions. I store them open and then close them to transport or take up a climb but in theory it shouldn't matter. Everything in the retraction mechanism is made of metal so should not creep (weaken or stretch over time) at normal temperatures. It is preferable to have the cam in the open position when placing it on the ground at the base of a climb just to help keep dirt out of the mechanism.

I would not try to anodize the cam assembled. Anodizing will only work on the aluminum components, which are the lobes, control horns, and trigger. I do not know what it would do to the other components. The lobes and control horns could be removed for anodizing but anodizing typically adds about 0.001" of thickness so reassembly of the lobes onto the control horns would be difficult without filing.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Sep 5, 2017 - 02:06am PT

Anodizing is for marketing in my view.
So people look at their cams, see a fair number of scratches, and think they might want to buy new ones.
Yet the old ones are still strong....

nutstory

climber

Ajaccio, Corsica, France

Sep 5, 2017 - 02:47am PT

On anodizing:
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/anodising-vid/

anita514

Gym climber

Great White North

Oct 17, 2017 - 04:59am PT

hey Tom, what is the normal delay to get one of your cams after sending payment?

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Oct 17, 2017 - 08:33am PT

Tom - please supply my friend Ryan Gruber the Valley Giant cam he prepaid you for nearly a year ago!

And please fix mine.

Thanks, eh?

Late Starter

Social climber

Oct 17, 2017 - 10:57am PT

To be fair, I paid him on July 1st. However, Tom told me he'd get it to me in a few days (that was nearly 30 days ago). Since then....no response via email, and I've sent multiple.

C'mon Tom, you make a great hand-made product!! Next time however, I'd probably wait until you had them made, before I send you cash.

Thanks (hopefully) Tom!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Oct 17, 2017 - 12:16pm PT

Anyone got a phone number for Tom?

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Oct 17, 2017 - 01:03pm PT

No, No number,

Old video, so no, none on the rack but Those Merlins are art
[Click to View YouTube Video]All these big cams are, as a matter of fact

anita514

Gym climber

Great White North

Oct 17, 2017 - 01:19pm PT

??????????????????????????????

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 01:49pm PT

I don't think I see a Merlin in Shanti's video in the gear pile at 1:16.
Definitely see Valley Giants placed on her lead and 3 in the gear pile. (This subject has already been covered earlier in the thread).

The vid is not that old - 2017-09-28 on youtube.
But you are right - she did the FA on April 26, 2017
and the first Merlins were shipped on May 4, 2017.

Dramatic crux of the vid was trying to reach the bolt she preplaced with a long stiff draw with special biner that would close once it contacted the hanger on the inside. (No doubt everyone has already seen this).

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber

Wilds of New Mexico

Oct 17, 2017 - 02:07pm PT

That roof move looks hard! I typically haven't shied away from OW but I can't say I'd actually search it out... Kong makes an extended draw / biner thing for those kinds of clips (The Panic).

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 04:54pm PT

Yes, the Kong Panic is a carabiner that will do this.

She used the Mad Rock Trigger Wire.
from
https://www.climbing.com/news/24-innovative-carabiners/

Late Starter

Social climber

Oct 18, 2017 - 01:03pm PT

Bump in the hope Tom will read this and send me my VG#9.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Oct 20, 2017 - 05:30am PT

On the. Edge... It is! I'm tall enough not to need the special biner ( besides, it fell off the rack on my lead and beaned Pam) I had to do 5.10+ move and clip in the middle of it! I got the invert but didn't, complete the pivot, now with my seperated shoulder, that one is on the back burner until the spring. Definitely taking Merlin And my VG when I go, though! Probably pro deal a superclip, too!

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Oct 20, 2017 - 10:53am PT

Damn, those Merlin cams are the height of the art in tool design.

Shanti video is very cool. Her switch out of a stack at 9:37 is pretty darned slick, almost sleight-of-hand, is that low percentage or just business as usual?

Not sure what playing chicken with the mental block is all about, except the route must be pretty alluring and there still must be a high degree of confidence in the shape and containment of the monster?