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Mr. Southfork
Ice climber
Cody, WY
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Oct 27, 2006 - 11:47am PT
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Another of my early mentors/friends has died in a climbing accident. I was fortunate to have shared a rope with Todd Skinner at Devil's Tower, Shoshone Canyon (Cody, WY) and the Lander area. He had a tremendous influence on my passion for climbing for a very long time. The climbing community is at a great loss with his death. His wife and children will suffer the loss at a level that is not comprehendable to me... This is why I have not participated at the extreme level of this dangerous activity for many years. I last ran into him in Killer Cave (Lander area) several years ago. I will never forget his enthusiasm and smiling face.~ Todd Cozzens
"Ride the wild Bago..."
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Pemba
climber
WI
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Oct 27, 2006 - 12:13pm PT
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A number of people who are coming to the memorial from far away are staying in Lander at the Best Western Hotel. The Sun Room in the Summit Restaurant adjacent to the hotel has been reserved this evening, October 27th, from 7pm onward (to whenever) for those who would like to have a place to gather. Some starters are provided, and then we'll order from the bar, coffee bar, or restaurant. Bring old photos and slides, and share memories of Todd. Come one, come all...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Oct 27, 2006 - 12:44pm PT
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Pemba - what a great post! You are a great writer. I laughed my ass off, and before I knew it,
had tears in my eyes. I really wish I could have known Todd as many of you do.
More Todd stories and quotes, please!
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Nick N.
climber
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
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Todd was a great guy. He personally showed me and Joe Brooks around the Wild Iris many years ago. He will be missed. I will visit the Valley this weekend, and my thoughts will be with him and his family. My deepest regards go to Todd's family. He was a great man.
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keep looking up
Trad climber
San Francisco South Bay, CA
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:24pm PT
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A flower quickly fading,
here today and gone tomorrow...
goes to show how one life can touch so many and bring good...
we all have that purpose
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Sven Hagen
Social climber
California
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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Peter,
This news comes as a shock. You always hate losing someone that approaches life the way he did. I know you guys were good friends and shared great memories and bonding (a rare event in life). I am very sad for his family and young kids mainly because they will miss the opportunity to be nurtured by such a great person. But I am sure that the people around Todd share his spirit and it will carry through in the future.
This is a little odd, but I remember one thing that I think I told you about Todd. We were in the gym in Wyoming working out with a bunch of muscle pumpers and Todd walks in with his home made "crack vise". He set it up on the pull-up rack, sets about a two inch crack, jams his hand into it, and started doing one arm pull-ups. Well I know I got the hell out of his way and watched the show. It was amazing and in his early days. Anyway, my best to you and I hope all is welldown south. Keep the spirit and let's cheat the earth out of another day.
Your friend for life
Sven
My thoughts, sadness, and memories go out to the family. I was lucky to meet Todd, Holly and Orion during my years as a cowboy.
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The Doctor
Trad climber
Flagstaff AZ
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
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I forget who said "The worlds best climber is the one having the most fun" , I think we agree that it was definitely Todd. No matter who you are we all remember that smile. I met Todd and Amy the summer of '87 underneath Penis Dimension at Veedauwoo, it feels like yesterday. He proceeded to sell me 3 of those red Soviet Sport tank tops. I have a lot of early climbing memories associated with that shirt, and those memories are flooding back reading these posts. Amy, I haven't seen you in almost 15 years, but I wanted you to know that you're in my thoughts, and please let your kids know everday how amazing their dad is, and how many lives Todd touched in such a positive way. The Dr.
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h2oman
climber
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:54pm PT
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Great pics, folks. If I wasn't such a tech loser I'd scan some slides from back in the day and post.
I've been flooded with memories for the last three days, trying to capture the full essence of Todd. One that might have been a portent of things to come for Todd was the following phone call:
"Hey, It's Todd Skinner!" (Hold receiver a bit farther from ear. The "receiver" was this big sort of banana shaped black thing attached to a box by a curly wire. Sorry to bother some of you eith this detail.)
"What have you been up to, Todd?"
"I've just finished a new route at Hueco. It's one of the three hardest climbs in the country!"
"Wait a minute now, are you sure about that?"
"Well, um ..." (That kind of funny breathing he did when you got his goat. I could see him grinning at the other end, even through the phone line.)
"Have you done every other route in the country to be sure? You know there could be some backwater place where everything is grossly underrated."
"You're right! By God, I guess I better get on the road and go find out!"
And of course he pretty much did.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:59pm PT
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I'm sorry I never met him. Sounds like a part of him lives on though, in all the lives he's touched. Makes me get a little smile and a tear - and think, too, of the good people climbing has taken away from me. And the good people it's given to me.
Cheers,
Gabe
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WERNE1
Mountain climber
MIAMI,FLORIDA
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Oct 27, 2006 - 02:07pm PT
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I am so sorry.
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engelkind9
climber
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Oct 27, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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Thanks to all of you for the quotes and stories and pictures. I'm Amy's brother Garold, Todd's brother-in-law. Everything you have posted has helped me and the rest of the family more than any of you will ever know.
I have three heros in my life. One was my one of my closest friends for the last sixteen years, Cantor Stephen Dubov. He died unexpectedly two months ago at the age of 55. Todd is another, and tomorrow we will celebrate his birthday and life. My Dad is still here.
I have had wonderful discussions and great disagreements with all three of this men. All of them are completely different - Stephen is a Cantor in Judaism, Dad is a musician and counselor, and Todd is - well, I never quite figured that out all the way, but climbing was high up on the list, don't you think?:) What they have in common, and what made them my heros, is their unabashed love of life and their ability to make me want to grab and bite off and chew and enjoy thoroughly every single moment and event of living and make it mine, and then share it with everyone around me. It boils down to this: These three men were and are more completely alive than anyone I've ever encountered, and this was what makes them heros in my eyes.
I will miss Todd, and my heart breaks for my sister. But she's the second strongest woman I've ever known, the first being our mother Lucie. We are all here for each other, and each of you, whomever you are, give us strength.
Thank you, and we'll see you tomorrow at Sinks Canyon. If you see a rock or pine cone coming down fast - move your ass! Todd'll be having fun with us one way or the other:)
Garold Whisler
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Nathan Durbin
Mountain climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 27, 2006 - 03:19pm PT
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I encountered Todd Skinner in July of 2000. My father, brother, and I went to Alberta Canada to join a National Geographic heli-hiking tour. Todd was our special guest and speaker.
When I initially met Todd I knew, by the sparkle in his eye, he had seen something special and been where few had.
I, of course, was just a hiker and had only done climbs on rock walls and watched videos of the extreme stuff. On this trip I traversed a glacier and did a bit of mountaineering. Todd was free climbing and pushing the envelope.
I barely remember the stories he told, but I will always remember this advice. Never, never, leave yourself with spaghetti and peanut butter. He apparently ate peanut butter and spaghetti for almost a month while on a difficult climb.
I will always remember Todd even.though our paths crossed just once.
It's clear from all the posts and the heavy hearts that Todd was a remarkable person whose spirit we should all try to capture.
My heart goes out to his family and friends.
-nathan
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Spirit Eagle
climber
Northern California (Sierras)
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Oct 27, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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Todd was a super guy, married to my dear cousin Garold's daughter, Amy. I met him when he and Amy had begun to be together and always was impressed with his wonderful personality and genuineness. Because he became part of a family who is incredibly dear to me, he became just as dear and important. My heart hurts for his loss to Amy and the children, for Garold and Lucie who love him as another son, and for Todd's siblings and father. Walk in Beauty, Todd.
Gini
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MikeA
climber
Farmington, Utah
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Oct 27, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
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Like many people posting here, and certainly thousands other who remain anonymous, I was first acquainted with Todd through magazine articles, but he made an impression on me through his videos. He was truly a "larger-than-life" character, and he jumped through the TV screen right into my living room. I will never forget my twin brother Mark, returning from scout camp where he had just seen the first "Master's of Stone" movie in the early 90s. He told me wild tales of a crazy guy doing pullups with one finger!! We were barely even climbers ourselves, but that image stuck with me. Last winter I showed that movie to some young climbers in a climbing club I'm involved and I still thinks it's the best climbing film ever made. It's timeless. Anyway....
Through the years, I've developed as a climber, and even had the good fortune to repeat some of Todd's routes (though certainly not his hardest!) Nevertheless, that never reduced my awe at Todd's accomplishments as a climber. I was never one to have "heroes" growing up, but if I did, Todd was certainly it.
This past summer I had the immense honor of being invited to Lander to present a slideshow for the International Climbing Festival. I thought the slideshow was pretty much a disaster with technical problems, and me being pretty nervous. Had I known Todd was in attendance, I probably would have been too nervous to even speak. The next day I got to meet Todd before the "film festival" and he had only supportive things to say. I was giddy as a school-girl to meet my hero. I was floored by his enthusiasm after 30+ years in this sport. He gushed about future possibilities and his latest climbing project and went on-and-on describing the details of every pitch of JBMHR. We went into the movie theater after that and when we came out, Todd had a map drawn to his cabin outside of Yosemite. I had only met the guy for five minutes, and he was already giving me directions to his place! His generosity was amazing. I called my brother immediately to tell him about it.
What I learned that night was that Todd was not just a great climber, but a great person.
I stayed at Todd's cabin this past summer, and I've been meaning to call to thank him for his hospitality...I really wish I hadn't procrastinated. I'm sure it wouldn't have mattered that much to Todd, but I was looking forward to another conversation with one of my heroes, which won't happen now. Having hardly known Todd, it's hard to explain rationally why I feel so touched by this tragedy, but I do. In reading all of these messages, I think that is what made Todd so special.
He was truly a visionary climber, and a pioneer in the truest sense. Where most of his peers from the 70s and 80s have slowed down a lot, Todd was still going strong, still exploring, still pushing. I can't imagine him doing anything else. More than anything I think Todd proved the power of positive thinking, perserverance and belief in yourself.
As I learned during a few short days in July, Lander is an amazing community. Todd's absence will be large and irreplacable, but the impression he has made is much larger.
Cheers to a life well-lived!
My sincerest condolences to Amy, Hannah, Jake and Sarah; to the entire Lander community and to all who have been touched by Todd.
Mike Anderson
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Krash
Mountain climber
Centennial, CO
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Oct 27, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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I'm so sorry to hear about Todd. I met him at Devil's tower in 1981. He was climbing with Robin (Royal) and were looking at Crocodile Rock. I didn't see him again for about 5 years until he came to Laramie on a slide show trip. I walked up to him and he said my name as I approached. Over and over I read about how kind he was to everyone, it cannot be said enough, he completely valued people.
he is deeply missed,
his influence continues
chad
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 27, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
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His memory will live on, that is for sure.
In reading through some of the posts here, I envy many of you who have had the opportunity to meet, talk to, that got to know the man. I only have memories from some of them old videos he was in, and your stories here on ST.
I want to thank the community for entering into the record, if only for a short while, the memories that made this man so special.
With that said, I'd like to offer up a challenge:
Attempt, in your everyday life, to be as great as you possibly can in all endeavors. Be as genuine as can be. While at the same time recognizing and acknowledging those traits in those around you.
If we all strive to this end... We too may be blessed with as recognized and noticed a life as that of Todd Skinner.
I mean... Wouldn't we all like to be remembered with such reverence as this?
Todd's memory lives on.
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Blanco
Sport climber
Calgary, AB
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Oct 27, 2006 - 05:12pm PT
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After meeting Todd at Smith Rocks in the mid'80s, I ended up climbing with him and Paul Piana, and the Lander crew, during the early '90s. Hey it was pretty close to Calgary and the limestone is stellar, and the locations are very similar to the Rockies. Todd's smile and animation were infectious as was his passion for life and climbing. He could talk your ear off, but it was always so darn enticing you were hooked.
Todd provided a way for many climbers in North America to become "professionals" He never accepted almost-good enough, he was a perfectionist with climbing. His routes flowed - they were THE lines at the crag - they were and are the routes you want to climb. He and his long-time climbing partner Paul Piana took the sport aspect to the big walls and freed them. They pushed the sport of climbing and showed climbers that boundaries are simply complacency - to push them is what climbing is about - freedom to dream, pursue and actuate – let them stand, you might as well sit in your armchair! Todd was very adept at dealing with the competitiveness in other climbers, it made him send and seek the next route, thought he was not a comp-climber. He was the sport climber to “knock-off” back in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. Then when life changed, he set the level for the free ascents of big walls.
Todd's motivational speaking is truly one of the biggest assets to the climbing community. He was able to speak to an audience whom would likely never experience or be in contact with climbing. He was able to show the general public that climbing is not just about heights, adrenaline junkies, lycra, large-scale expeditions, smoking weed, individual goals, or about who is better - but about drive, passion, commitment and a lifestyle that can keep you healthy and fit - basically it is for anyone, not just a select few.
It impressed me that Todd was able to keep climbing and pushing himself with his schedule - he truly had passion for climbing. He has my respect and not simply a climber, but a solid role model for life, with his love for Amy and his children and the whole extended Skinner family – they are a solid bunch of people and I’m sure will band together to get through this harsh time in their life. Amy and her children have a huge hurdle, but have a great family to help them through this and friends who have dealt with a lot in their life already who will be there for them.
Todd will be missed by the climbing community. Our love to the Skinner clan – they’ll need it.
JD and Jean LeBlanc
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kirk billings
climber
lander, wy
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Oct 27, 2006 - 05:33pm PT
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I think I can add a little to the peanut butter and pasta story that Nathan Durbin alluded to in his post.
For a couple of seasons I was the cook for Todd and Amy at their place down at Hueco Tanks. Each night there would be between 8 and 25 folks there for dinner, so each season they’d hire someone to cook dinner for the friends and family that would show up to hang out, get strong on crimpers and walk around in the desert with mattresses on their backs.
The selection process for cooks was pretty severe, as you had to bribe Amy with a bit of chocolate and then give a pretty thorough accounting of your skills as a cook. I claimed that I hadn’t starved to death on my own cooking while in college and was hired on the spot. They soon found out just how near to death I came in college.
The Hueco season before the big trip to Pakistan I came across a cookbook (it may have been Claudia Pearson’s NOLS cookbook) with a recipe in it for “Peanut Butter Pasta”. I was intrigued, but scared to test it on 20 virtual strangers so I made it for my lunch. I liked it, made it for dinner, and everyone else seemed to like it, too.
They liked it so much that it made it onto the expedition menu that summer when Todd, Steve and Jeff Bechtel, Mike Lilygren, Bobby Model, Bill Hatcher and Donna Raupp headed for the Himalaya. I wasn’t on that trip, but as near as I can tell, Todd managed to do what he always did with things… “distill it down to it’s essence”, which is never a good thing with a recipe. As near as I can tell, it sounded like eventually Todd was just putting pasta and peanut butter together and calling it dinner. Well, Bobby Model got sick, had Peanut Butter Pasta for dinner and REALLY got sick. So sick that he still hasn’t forgiven me for “inventing” the recipe. Only Todd could convince someone they were sick because of a recipe and not the 20+ days above 18,000 feet.
Or maybe he’s angry because of what we did the next season that I was cooking at Hueco tanks. On the first night we had Peanut Butter Pasta we took a few cups of dinner, sealed them in Ziploc bags and Fed-Exed them off to Bobby Model…the slowest way possible.
Todd thought that was funny as hell, even though we charged it to his Fed-Ex account.
Over the seasons that I cooked for folks down at Hueco I learned to cook extra EVERY NIGHT. That’s how often he brought stray climbers home from the crags.
I eventually settled down in Lander, got married and got a “real” job. None of it would have turned out the way it did if not for Todd and Amy. When Kate and I got married, they let us use their place out on South Pass. We dug the place up, got Todd ordained on the internet so he could marry us, built a huge fire after the ceremony and had folks sleeping off the evening’s excesses in their teepee and in their cabin. And THEY thanked US for the good energy. Man…
Peanut Butter Pasta Recipe (as near as I can remember)
Finely diced onion and garlic
Equal parts peanut butter, brown sugar, apple cider vinegar, water and soy sauce
Sauté onion in a little olive oil, add the rest of the ingredients, turn the heat down to low and stir until mixed. Serve over pasta. A few vegetables wouldn’t hurt the mix. Don’t skimp on the sauce, coward.
I can’t wait to get flamed for posting a recipe on a memorial forum. Todd would have loved that.
Kirk Billings
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slabbo
Trad climber
MA
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Oct 27, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
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I remember this guy in a white cowboy hat ranting in josh about 25 years ago, he was telling me that the future of american climing was in Texas ! Though not very convinced, I DID listen and course he was correct.Shortly after this (@ Devil's Tower I think) the next place was South Africa ! At the time these were the wildest suggestions I had heard about climbing.
A great person and an inspiration,
PEACE TODD
john
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Michael Clifford
Social climber
Vegas, NV
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Oct 27, 2006 - 08:01pm PT
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Todd belayed me on my first 5.12 lead. It was back in the mid 80s at Shelf Road. I was 10 years older than him and he was patient and fun at all times. While I rested he soled 'Take the Skinheads Bowling".
My favorite Skinner moment was his talk after his Korean climbing trip in the ? late 80s. His partner spoke little English and after every pitch he asked Todd "How Hard? This went on as the pithches grew in difficulty. He refused to surrender the lead. Finally he asked Todd "HOW Hard?. Todd said "5.12" after a series of lesser numeric replies. The Korean climber finally smiled and handed Todd the sharp end ."Now you may lead".
Mimicing Todd's Korean version of "How Hard?" is still an ammusment to me years later. Todd and Paul were a great team, climbers, entertainers and good folks. Sorry to loose you Todd.
Mike Clifford
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