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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 31, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
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How about some names to go with those faces?
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Aug 31, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
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That would be (l to r) Jimmy Newberry, Bob Dickerson, John Pearson (whose nose was split open by a rock while belaying John Rosholt leading up to the Roofs of Mordor on the FA of Journey Through Mirkwood), and the late Scotty Gilbert (brother of Michael Gilbert of Boulder).
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 31, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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Always loved that name (big Tolkien fan, and, of course, it fits), Thanks!
Also, love the picture -- a lot.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 24, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
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Got a minor one. So, yesterday, Henry Lester and I did the Porcelain Arete, a 12-pitch 5.9+ immediately upstream from the Painted Wall. To be perfectly honest, it's probably the least-recommended of the routes I've done in the Black. I'd tell you to bring a canister of and delivery system for Roundup, but then, half of the bushes appear dead already. Gardening tools might be better.
The satisfaction in doing a route like this is in summiting a significant feature that involves a full day of hiking and climbing (those are 12 long pitches), killer positions and views, and not getting your ass lost. I can barely walk down the 5 stairs from the upstairs to the main level today.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Apr 24, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
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Typical scene on the Porcelain Arete, 2005. NWR on the Black Canyon rating system in my opinion (Not Worth Repeating :-)
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Vic
climber
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Apr 25, 2017 - 07:38pm PT
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Porcelain Arete - such a beautiful feature and position in the Black Canyon. Full-on, moderate, alpine adventure. If only the quality of the climbing was a little bit better. Kor was onto something, for sure.
W.R.T.Y.L. (Worth Repeating Ten Years Later)... once you forget about those man-eating bushes and dirt in your eyes.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 25, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
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NICE views on that arete!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 26, 2017 - 04:50am PT
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Well said, Vic. On further reflection, I'm changing my least-recommended opinion. I've been thinking about the climb a lot. In many ways, this is a perfect adventure climb at very moderate grade, but don't expect a more moderate version of the Scenic Cruise. And don't expect Journey Home 5.9 pitches. The climbing is mostly easy with just a move or two of 5.9 here and there. It's fun to move fast. The overall adventure involves a big hiking component, and it wouldn't be that hard to get off-route. To tell you the truth, I'm actually not all that bothered by the bushes.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Apr 26, 2017 - 06:49am PT
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Bump for the Black, that place is Holy Ground.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 12, 2018 - 04:53pm PT
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A
Has it shed its skin yet?
Bump?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 12, 2018 - 04:56pm PT
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I’m alrady thinking of the upcoming spring season.
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AKTrad
Mountain climber
AK
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Nov 17, 2018 - 10:51pm PT
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Jim Donini and I climbed a fine route this fall in the Black. I don't remember the name because I rarely consult a guidebook...I just go climbing with Jim. About halfway up he remarked, "I'll bet we're the only 150 year old climbing rope in the country!" (two 75-year olds). I seldom have a camera, but I took one in 2015 when we did "Russian Arete". Here are a few photos:
Cheers, Ralph
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