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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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Outdoor Retailers Show, summer 2014
I was able to attend the Outdoor Retailers show in Utah last week and it was totally awesome! I missed two years of the show so it was nice catching up with the manufacturers and superstar climbers, and to check out the new products for 2015. Also I was promoting the major Phoenix Rock Gym comp, the Thrash & Dangle Fest scheduled for April 18, 2015. I brought along my crew which as usual is Neo (Nick Oxentenko) and Robert (Olson Climbing Collection), and also Sofia Long our sweet 16 super climber from team Rock Phenoms, to show her the climbing paparazzi world. “Business Fun!” Also with us was Aldrin Gotianun and his magic ukuleles. The photos below are from Aldrin, Sofia, Marty, Neo and Robert.
My first shout out goes to Joe Garland and the ClimbX crew for being my base camp for the show. Sometimes, (always….cough), the manufacturers pile on the schwag for the museum and I have nowhere to store it until it is hauled to the hotel at the end of the day. Everybody at the show to me is one happy family so being sponsored with one company and storing your belongings with another is perfectly acceptable. There is not much storage area in these booths. Joe’s generosity for the museum has been huge through the years. The big attraction at the ClimbX booth was Aldrin’s BugsGear Ukuleles and I saw people carrying and strumming these things all over the show. Brilliant marketing tool using sound to create curiosity toward the manufacture label. Throughout this show at beer thirty many booths had live bands playing, it was really cool. Osprey as well had soldier dudes on stilts dancing around their booth with carnival music playing to create attention. I must say it was totally weird but really held my attention.
The show was definitely set up for business this year with all of the manufacturers being in their booths and no common play area. In the past, Rock & Ice Magazine and Climbing magazine traded off being the central information booth and director of the games. Walltopia used to have a wall within the climbing mfg booths where shoe demos, feats of strength comps, and other promo curiosities were performed. Carabiner toss comps, shoe toss, lip goo toss, Petzl rodeo clip comp, ice axe pull-up comp, speed traversing, running with ropes, fastest tie in, pull ups, pull up one arm hangs, ice climbing on the EP wall, screamer rip demos, slack line demos and comps, and so many other fun things that are now just a dream. Aaaaaaaa, these comps were so much fun! I still hold the fastest figure eight tie in at 7 seconds, and with a perfect 12 inch tail.
So for the first day it was just Sofia and I so we had full reign of the show until Neo and Robert showed up for day two. Sofia scored a sponsorship with Rock On, a sponsorship with Sam Krieg where she picked the fabric of her chalk bag and it was sewn for her at the show. Sam always has cool fabrics to choose from. And once again I scored another zebra chalk bag, Thanks Sam! I have 6 of them now since they are indestructible and never wear out, but I appreciate his generosity.
Over at the Mad Rock booth was Obe Carrion and he designed a new shoe for Mad Rock called Redline. Sofia applied for a sponsorship while I found a new bouldering climbing brush for the museum. Some of these boar hair brushes retail for 7.00 each.
Many new products were shown at the DMM booth, and one of them - Neo, Robert and I agree that this device was the most interesting item shown at this summer show. Belay device called the Grip. Super cool and I want one! It was good to see Lisa and Steve again. Stefan Glowacz was also in the DMM booth for Red Chili products, but I forgot to bring my Glowacz trading card from home to be signed. I still got his signature anyways and the following day Robert showed up proudly with his Glowacz card to be signed. But Stefan left on the plane that morning so both of us still have unsigned cards. The hunt continues!
In the hallway we ran into Dean Potter and his dog Whisper. Dean gave out signatures and dog paw prints at the Ruff Wear booth which I missed, so I still had to have that Whisper paw print signature…….and oh yeah Deans signature too. Dean says I missed the session so this was a no count, but I scored the paw print anyways. Thanks Dean for the fun!
The first day of the show was totally awesome! And to top that off we were invited to the Petzl party at their new Petzl corporate facility in Salt Lake City. This building is awesome! it has a sweet indoor 50’ tall Walltopia wall, and on the backside of the wall is training rigging and rap stations at all different heights. Timmy O’Neil hosted a soft catch competition and a friendly dyno competition on the wall for fun while the crowd enjoyed the awesome buffet food service. Upstairs we picked up a Petzl poster and 12 climbing pros were sitting at tables giving signatures. On the poster is 28 pro climbers which by the end of the trade show I got 23 signed. Later in the evening the owner of Petzl gave a speech honoring the new facility. Thanks Petzl for the incredible party and for showing us your world!
Neo arrives for day two as we wait for Roberts arrival later in the day. Neo first stocks up on Pancake mix, then goes after the big prizes.
The So-Ill booth is always a big attraction at the show. I feel proud to be one of the brothers, grandpa division. So-Ill was showing the new holds designed by Jason Kehl which were really cool. I scored the largest hold for my collection, and many other So-Ill fun trinkets. They have mini hang boards which are dog chew toys. They also have new 1st 2nd 3rd place prize trophies for competitions. I really want the blow-up hang board they have on their booth for my museum. Thanks So-Ill! Love you guys!
Rock Exotica always has cool climbing equipment and they brought along their “progressions” which show how they machine their products.
Fixe Hardware has reworked the Alien camming units and a newer lighter version is available. I mean really lighter! It was nice seeing Kevin Daniels again and catching up on his latest expeditions.
Black Diamond came through for me with the 2015 catalogs! Yeah! Unfortunately they only had BD decal stickers this year. Black Diamond over the years has created many fun silly climbing stickers. BD also creates amazing products so don’t get me wrong. You know they make great products so you can imagine how great the stickers are too. In the BD booth I ran into Cedar Wright.
Out in the pavilions I came across Hans Florine, the fastest man on stone! Luckily for me and Robert, I brought along two Hans Florine trading cards to be signed. I usually can’t contain Hans for long, he’s always on the move. But I still get a few signatures and a hug, and off he goes!
Omega Pacific over the years has let Robert and I show museum artifacts at the shows in their booth. We talked to Michael Lane and we are set for display space for the summer 2015 show. Super exciting! we just have to come up with a theme and put the display together. Thanks Omega Pacific!
The four year search has come to an end. I almost fell over when I saw that Sean McColl was at the show and I have his trading card I wanted to get signed. In the collectors world this is a major accomplishment. I almost have the full set of the Petzl trading cards signed. Sean also signed a poster for the rock gym. Yesss!
KIND bar rallied us in for this photo. We got the free tshirt and a handful of KIND bars. Last Thrash & Dangle comp KIND bar showed up with a booth and gave out hundreds of samples. KIND bar rocks!
I scored a slat-wall shoe holder from Boreal. Thanks Jesus! This may seem like a strange item for a museum, but I have a dozen or so different ones so far. A few years back Jesus hooked me up with both of the Boreal shoe keychains, right and left shoe. In the past my favorite shoe was the Boreal Ballet. I had a pair of Ballets that were resoled 13 times and still performed!
John Long was over at the Adidas booth so Robert and I slipped in for a signature. John as usual gives me a grumpy sigh, signs the photo, arrogantly jams it back into my hand and walks away. I do not understand why John gets offended when people ask for his signature. “What is Mind?” - the “knowing” that in some peoples eyes you are a hero, but in others you are not…..and it is the balance between these two that is of the spirit.
Evolv was launching their new climbing shoe the Luchador so they created their marketing around the Luchador. In their booth was Mexican wrestling masks and Luchador everything. Super cool! We got a few posters signed and pictures with the climbing pros and then I was loaded up with evolv schwag. They called it evolv heaven for being a team athlete. Thanks evolv!…..(tears). I was also given the news that Chris Sharma was now part owner of evolv. Wow! So now technically I could say that Chris sponsors me…..cool! I talked to Chris and got a few more of his photos signed! Team evolv rules!
Beer thirty! Super cool, another La Sportiva beer bottle! Items like this may seem like trash but in the collecting world, this is future gold! 99% of the bottles get recycled or are trashed so only a few survive. Robert was sure to get one for his collection as well.
I ran into Louie Anderson and chatted with him for a while. I actually had with me a picture for him to sign. Sweet! Louie has climbed a lot of hard routes in AZ.
Steven Jefferies is totally awesome. I love his hair. Straight out of the movie, “the Shining.” He holds a chalk bag for my museum which describes him perfectly. He was one of the course setters for the PsicoBloc competition which was that evening, and told me he could bring me in the comp at the base of the wall. I decided to enjoy the comp with my crew instead because I would be more mobile with a better vantage point. So I volunteered my services for PsicoBloc 2015.
At the show was Brittney Griffith and Lisa Hathaway. Brittney is super strong but shy and very talented at disappearing away from paparazzi crews. This year she was stuck at a table and I landed a Griffith signature! Yes! Lisa has no problem signing pictures for me, and always returns the love!
I have reconnected with my old sponsor Patagonia, and they upped the sponsorship from just lip goo, to lip goo - pen - and card holder! See how it works. You stick with the dream, and it comes true!
Now this is a great signature! Perfectly centered with smooth lines. Kurt of course denies wearing tights but I love to see him smile. Thanks for the fun Kurt!
Bobbi Bensman is my AZ hometown girl. Every time I am at the show I track her down for a hug and signature. This year she surprised me with the hug and a big kiss on the cheek! I told her that I just turned 50 years old, and I am still sending 5.12s. She replied back saying that she too turned 50, but a few days ago she on-sited a 5.13. So there! You are awesome Bobbi!
At every show I say hi to Randy Leavitt. To me Randy is the “Chris Sharma” before Chris was climbing. Randy has donated many cool items to the Karabin museum and Olson Collection. Thanks Randy for your ongoing inspiration and support!
Metolius was giving out bolt hanger stickers in six different colors at their booth. The colors are super vibrant and sweet! Metolius has been making these stickers since the late 1990s. I noticed that the Metolius Curve Hexes are not swedged anymore. The wires attach to a soldered rivet, thing. Jim Karn is one of the Metolius reps and used to be (and still is) a bad ass climber!
I saw many other people at the show including Goose at Misty Mountain Threadworks, Scott Newell at Blue Water…you are awesome, the Nicros crew, the Asana crew, Vibram’s brunch, thanks Five Ten for your raffles, Petzl raffle, Gear for Good, Kingdom holds, etc. The show is huge so I didn’t have time to get to every booth but my most desired item I want is the DMM Grip. My second coolest item at the show I saw is from Camp. Camp is celebrating their 125th anniversary and created a keychain set of five of climbing gear, and one is a skier. I asked if I could get the set for my museum and they said that they only give one per person. Okay so I played it their way. So every time a different Camp rep was at the desk, I got another keychain, and so on and so on until I had all five. This is what they meant by one per person, correct? For beer cups I vote the blue Granite Gear cup the best, but Robert is the beer glass master so we will see what he says.
My third coolest item which I got at the show is the AustriAlpin 50/50 locking carabiner. The gate opens at both ends of the carabiner body. Besides its usefulness, I have noticed that it is hard to set it down because it is fun to play with as a coffee table toy. One handed operation to open both sides of the gate, and works very smooth. I give a huge THANKS to AustriAlpin for donating half of their booth to the Karabin Museum. I specialize in bolt hangers and equipment and this totally fulfills my wish list! And as I walked away they called me back to take home their 16’ banner. Wow, and Awesome!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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PsicoBloc August 8, 2014
Deep-water soloing (DWS), also know as Psicobloc, is where water at the base of a climb protects the climber from injury in case of a fall. This comp was amazing! Totally awesome show! The climbing wall is in the Utah Olympic Park and is built over the landing pool for the down hill skiers practicing their flips. Food vendors, Climbing manufacturers showing their goods, climbing stars signing posters, raffles, drinks and more. Fun stuff! 2014 PsicoBloc schwag:
The routes look easy with big holds, but the wall is quite steep and the climber is risking a 50’ fall, yipe! Two climbers race to the top and the fastest climber continues to the next heat. I heard that if you down climb the back of the wall instead of jumping in the water you are disqualified. Many climbers that lost the race but still made it to the top down climbed the back of the wall. Some down climbed the route partially then let go falling in the water.
The routes were changed for the male climbers and during that time the skiers came in and amazed the crowd with their tricks, then landed in the pool. It was totally awesome! In the photo below the spot to the right of the wall is a skier coming in for a landing. The male climbers are up next as they prepare in the hot tub.
In the center of the roof the men had to dyno to a hold then continue. Most of the guys made it to the top and then jumped in the water. Looking at the routes up close they looked like fun 5.12 routes with gravity continuously working against you. For the guys they changed a few holds to bring it more into mid 5.13 range.
When the comp was over we finagled a few Gold passes and joined the party with the climbing stars. I got a few more signatures on the Petzl poster and many hugs. My hat is off to the organizers of this comp. Great show! Can’t wait till PsicoBloc 2015
Thats it for the show! On day four we gathered what items we reserved at each booth and creatively packed the heavy items into Sofia and her dads vehicle. Still on the plane, Neo Robert and I had 6 loaded bags, two brief cases and two crash pads to get back to AZ. I call this the “struggle of the reward.” Who cares how much you have and how tired you are, your bringing that schwag home!
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Marty
You have everything.
What's missing?
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The Climber Neo
Boulder climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Aug 18, 2014 - 07:02am PT
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Such a wonderful review of the show Marty!!
It was SO AWESOME and can't wait till next show,
always my favorite time of year, seeing the
familiar faces and exciting new gear!!
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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Chouinard catalogs prior to 1962 consisted of a single mimeographed sheet of paper listing pitons and prices. I probably still have one (1960) in my files if it hasn't faded to being unreadable.
He'd bring a steamer trunk full of hand-made pitons to the Tetons and stash it under Peter Lev's bunk in the Jenny Lake guides bunkhouse.
The story was that he would hammer them out on a rock in his mother's back yard from 4130 ChromeMoly aircraft steel.
To make a purchase, you first had to find Yvon, then go together to find Peter, and then go to the bunkhouse and slide the trunk out from under the bunk and select your purchase.
I still have one of those original hand-made Lost Arrows that didn't get left on a climb somewhere.
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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Well said! Like lightening, the paparazzi strike again. While glasses, key chains, carabiners, holds, and shoes certainly make the show an epic for us, the memories hold the greatest allure for me. Marty defiantly standing in the way of security while I jumped on the starting grips of the PsicoComp is certainly among my most favorite.
As the "master of cups", I favor the aluminum Black Diamond pint. This show favored the aluminum pints over the more traditional glass. The Patagonia "glass" AL pint is also high on the awesome scale.
This year I joined the American Alpine Club. Each new registrant was entered in a raffle for a PETZL care package. In an amazing turn of luck, I won! six quickdraws, a helmet, a grigri 2, adjama harness (My Size!), and a locking biner.
Super amazing time. Many love and thanks to all in the industry! I am a Luchador!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Aug 18, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Wow Marty! Thanks for all the great posts and dedication.
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couchmaster
climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
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Thanks Marty! "Who's awake now?". We all are, good stuff.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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I obtained a few more BD catalogs from Black Diamond, Robert G, and the AZ Hiking Shack.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Awesome stuff, Marty!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2014 - 07:09pm PT
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Paul Dief, Phoenix Rock Gym owner was digging through the archive shelves at the gym, you know the forgotten shelves with the 1/2" layer of chalk dust, and he came across this gem. The gym moved around 2001 to a new building so I am not sure how this ended up at the new location.
This is a poster advertising a Warren Harding slideshow being held in Tempe Arizona August 23, and the postdate on the mailing tube shows 1989. Poster has a perfect Warren Harding signature in red ink. The poster tube is sent to Bill Sewrey (misspelled on tube) who was the owner of Desert Mtn Sports store, and a local old timer climbing legend known as the mud man. I am not sure if the writing on the tube is from Harding since other Harding documents show he mostly wrote in lower case lettering. Great find Dief!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 11:36am PT
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Hans Florine was in Phoenix two weeks ago and did a clinic at the Phoenix Rock Gym, and did a slideshow/video presentation at ASU (Arizona State University) for the ASU Outdoors Club. The show was called "The Race for the Nose." Great history documenting the speed ascents on the Nose Route. Hans did a great job with his presentation to a crowd of around 100 people. I am amazed that Hans has been on the Nose Route 97 times, Wow!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
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For complete details about this display and Chouinard gear go to Supertopo forum "Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions."
..........................................................................................
Chouinard Equipment History
My deadline to complete the Chouinard Equipment display at the Hiking Shack was by Thanksgiving 2014, and I beat it by one week. Five months of work and it was totally worth it! Seeing the Chouinard display all in one piece is quite inspirational! I am actually surprised that I had this many Chouinard pieces on hand to show. Another Karabin masterpiece completed! 17 panels, 2 shelf displays, and a top grid section for soft goods. Thank you to everybody for your historical input and comments toward the many Chouinard products shown. Thank you to everybody who have donated items to the Karabin Climbing Museum over the years. The AZ Hiking Shack has all of your hiking and climbing gear needs, and is located 3244 E.Thomas Road in Phoenix.
Five month project, 8 cans spray glue, 450 feet of wire, various color poster boards, foam core board, 150 feet of double stick tape, paint and wood 1/2” boards. The photos of the gear was shot in my back yard on the sidewalk between the house and garage. Sidewalk concrete was poured in 1945. My cat Sasha inspected every piece of gear as the photos were taken. Photos were taken by a iPhone 4S camera. Musical inspiration: Jimi Hendrix, Led Zeppelin, Grand Funk Railroad, Rush, Who, Jethro Tull, The Doors, Animals, Robin Trower, Santana, Motorhead, and more.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
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This is one of my climbing schwag displays located at the Phoenix Rock Gym. The two photos is one display case built in 2007, top and bottom photos. I believe there is over 2000 items in this case. I am presently building another display case to show/store the pile of schwag items I got over the last few years.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2015 - 07:27am PT
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Over the years I picked up a few Screamers for the museum. These days there are many manufactured for Construction use called Shock Absorbers.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 06:37am PT
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I obtained a few more climbing schwag items over the years which were piling up in my storage boxes, so I redid the old display case on the stairs at the Phoenix Rock Gym, Tempe AZ. The top photo is the overall display, the lower photos are closer up sections of the display.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jan 20, 2015 - 07:57am PT
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Marty, those displays are quite amazing. Congratulations on putting together such a great display and archive. Inspirational to say the least.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 20, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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FANTASTIC MARTY.....JAW DROPPING SO.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
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I obtained this fine gem from VooDoo climbing holds at the 2003 Phoenix Boulder Blast held in Superior AZ. I believe that Gina's mom created 10 of these VooDoo plush dolls.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Great collection.
I can't help observing that a pretty good percent of that ancient stuff is what is on my current rack.
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