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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oooh. Prod got the coveted 296 post. only 800 to go!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Yes, 1096 is a good number.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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Prod, I'll get back with you in private. Obscure, but like it, Jaybro. Is this some kind of codified message that 1096 would be good practice for Lucille? Luckily, I've watched some of those crummy Dan Brown movies and also am following a post that explicitly pointed out your codified message. Hmmmm...I did on-site that one back in the day. Who can forget the iconic picture of Phil Gleason on this climb? But, of course, that's 10.96 and not 12.96.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Just seemed obscurely offwidth related...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Of course, a big part of the going out above your pro strategy relies on your having lots of confidence in your ability to hang in there. While your ball sack hangs way out there and your O-ring tightens enough to cut washers off of.
Two things Grugster.
Joe Frasier used to soak his head in hydrogen peroxide to toughen his facial skin against the pounding Ali was going to give it. Also, human skin has an incredible coefficient of friction as witnessed by the amazing barefoot ascents by real tough guys.
So my suggestion is you fill Prod's hot tub with H2O2 and soak your beer fattened kiester for a couple of good long sessions. Then go get Lucille in the nude. After that no one will bother you no matter how much brew you swill.
Come on man you are a Stout Silver Back! Get er Dun!
Seriously good luck. You can do it if you believe you can. Cheers!
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Prod
Trad climber
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All I can say,,, is Philo knows how to party!
Prod.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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I agree. We're rootin' for ya over here, too, Eeyonkee.
That can't hurt. Lucille is goin' DOWN!!!2!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
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Hey all. Sheesh, I'm not the best at planning things...but here's the plan. I'm going to leave Boulder at around 1:00 pm on Friday and will try to secure the campsite area at the end of Rd 700E, identified as "PartyLand" in the Vedauwoo Guide by Robert Kelman. It might be called PartyLand, but, make no mistake, it's a serious camp site. Go past the pay campground about a mile or so, look for a right turn (700E) and follow it to its end. There will be an Aspen forest in front of a Crag. Ask for Eeeyonkeee.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I'm driving down Thursday, but will probablly be in the pay campground away from tweaker country... may move over though, if there are enough people and someone there all the time...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:00am PT
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I was thinking that there might be more people than could be accommodated at the pay campground. Maybe if we can secure like 3 campsites at the pay campground, we can settle there. Ill keep you all posted.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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I'm leaving way early Saturday and hope to arrive in time for the "event," if not for the afterglow. Stay psyched Greg, you've got this. Or as Russ would say, "it's your side in."
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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I’m crushed no love!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You're gonna be there right Dawg?!
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Reflection style bump.
I've been thinking about this a bit lately. It was a long time ago. No Jay didn't flash it. But you have to have some perspective. Nothing this hard had been done at Vedauwoo. It was sort of our version of the 4-minute mile. I don't think there was ever any doubt in Jay's mind that he could do it, but there probably was some uncertainty about when.
Jay had to provide most of the energy. He had a partner who didn't have the same vision. I believed that Jay could do it, but at least initially I didn't think I belonged there. If you've ever been in this situation, you understand. Jay always had more confidence in me that I did.
We didn't have modern gear. We had tube chocks and two wobbly Yates cams. In fact, I was so determined to follow clean that I couldn't retrieve one of the cams. These cams had the unfortunate property that the trigger bar didn't collapse the cams all the way. When we went back the next day to get it, it was gone. I wish whoever took it would return it so we could put it in the offwidth hall of fame.
We were thwarted by various obstacles: thunderstorms, homework, beer, Norwegian girls. Ultimately we were a lot more successful with Lucille than the Norwegian girls. There is some dealage just getting up there.
So you have to admire Jay's vision, tenacity, determination, and ultimately success. I hope this weekend will be a celebration of that whether Greg does it in one try or not (I think he can - he's got mad skills). Here's to ya Jaybro. Awesome!
Here's some other details that I remember. The belay is in a refrigerator. Really. Take a down coat. It's freezing in there. The "anchor" at the time was a piece of rope wrapped around a horn or boulder or something. I always lead the approach pitch. The rack is a #4 friend. We always approached via free solo of Ed's crack with a big obnoxious tune box strapped to my pack.
See you all Saturday I hope. Good luck Greg.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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It's going down!!! Send!!!!
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
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Mike thank you for the lovely comments about your experience with Jay on Lucille. Your respect and support for his vision inspired a new chapter in the history of hard offwidths. That route is ALL about the passion to climb, about partnership and unstoppable determination and you can feel it as you walk out that ledge. Thank you two for creating a master-piece.
Good luck to you Greg!!! I wish I could be there with you sitting in that cold cave of doom and cheering for you, but I will be cheering for you from The Bering Sea!
PS Send my regards to that little lady -- she's a soul crushing beauty to be sure!
BETA: Upside-down and right-side in ;)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
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Nice post Mike. Thanks for the clarification on how it all went down. This is a beautiful climb with a great story. I'd wondered whether you had actually been able to follow it. Not surprised at all.
Thanks for the support Shanti (and everyone else) - maybe not so much for the beta. I'm going with the head up approach.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Hey Grug, my best suggestion, other than the H2O2 hot tub, is that if you hear thunder, even distant thunder, get out of there FAST!!!!!! Go back after it clears. Walt's Wall is where I got lit up. Here's to blue skies, good gear and limited blood letting, Best of luck man!
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flyingkiwi1
Trad climber
Seattle WA
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What an awesome thread. May a good time be had by all!
Ian
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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GO FOR IT!
Sending all available send vibes your way. Hope some make it across the Atlantic.
Lasti
p.s. Being in a country where offwidths are practically nonexistent, this thread has been a great link to wild, wild world of wide I miss so much. All the positive energy and support thrown out to Greg on his quest have shown that when it really matters, i.e. in climbing, the Taco crew are a great bunch of people.
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