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Dimes
Social climber
Living in the past.
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Here is Donny Bedford on Deport Jonny the day of the FA in Mar of 89.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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thanks bvb - that clarifies it since I didn't remember it
at all and was beginning...to wonder :-)
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Bob, Ray, Pit Bull (original), 5.10d/5.11, circa '85, is at the summit, behind the now fenced in, white brick, National Oceanograhic Weather Service, something like that, building, about 100 yds downhill on the south face. On the overhanging east side of the boulder, starting down low and left, is a detaching flake that diagonals up and right to a sloping mantle topout with two bolts and chain anchor. Getting to these anchors to set up the TR is the first crux! I was told you put this up Ray, whether you did or not is not for certain. Now, there is another Pit Bull down at Tower #1 which went up much later.
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Illusiondweller on "The Potato Chip" 1-1-2009
We just happened to meet him as we were hiking up the trail & he gave me and Ed H a tour of all the Woodson classics. As I recall, the tour ended by headlamp after dark!
I'm looking forward to being there Saturday.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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Gary...this is Gary...;-)
Well, some of the classics for there are much more. Seeing this was a surprise for I had forgotten about that picture! Hey, I wish we had had more time to climb together that day. I saw the video's that you ended up with after that trip and they were classic (http://www.vimeo.com/2756857);! Looks like we'll get a chance to do it again in March. Thanks for posting that.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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one of these days that puppy is gonna snap.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
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Don't be mislead by my relaxed posture for I believe I was saying, "Hurry up and take that picture guys!" Quite a change from what we use to think as kids! Steve Belford out of Poway use to heel hook that thing out to the end then mantle up and over! That drop off below has to be 30-40 feet to the ground, no?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Super Bump for that last photo!! Priceless really!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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bvb - Check your ST e-mail. A mutual friend of ours is looking to get in touch with you about a Flagstaff trip.
Cool picture of Donny on Deport Jonny. Another great problem. I just got an e-mail address for Donny. I plan to contact him and will mention the March get together. I sure do hope someone knows how to contact Rick Piggot, and has done so. Rick would seem to be one of the key figures to have present at any Woodson get together.
I spoke to Woodward who said he didn't believe he would be able to make it out in March. He happened to call me while we were up by the top of the mountain. Gave me a stack of sh#t about bouldering in the sun while he was shoveling snow. Isn't Woodson great?
It was a couple of enjoyable days at Woodson. Nice to see the place again after having not been there for so long. Good friends, good problems, great place.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Anybody remember the name of the top rope arete just left of Eppy's B-day? The problem was put up by Donny Bedford, and for the life of me I can't remember the name now. It's like Rubidoux's Pink Bug, only it's a much, much longer version of it on some serious steroids.
Donny found the problem in retaliation for having been taken to the Pink Bug during one of his Rubidoux visits. Something about problems like that being a dime a dozen at Woodson, only much bigger (both true), and that they were going home to find something just for us. A couple of weeks later there was a phone call that said they had found a "present" for us to try and open just left of Eppy's B-day. Forced to defend Rubidoux's honor a trip was made down to Woodson specifically for it. Luckily it was repeated on the first trip within relatively few tries, but it was a serious effort.
Going back to it was revealing, as over time the true difficulty of it had faded in memory. Getting spanked was an apt description for the return visit to it. Funny how much harder it was lacking the "proper" motivation.
Yet again another good Woodson problem, and relatively unknown I suspect. Which is too bad because it's quite good.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
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Check this one out of that flake Mike!...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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Gosh, I think that kid has his left arm behind his back, no?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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bump
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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The List:
1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 01:48am PT
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Anymore SoCal cragger tales out there? Let's here 'em!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 03:58am PT
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Here's one that sounds more like a roadrunner episode than anything! But I'm telling you, it actually happened!...
I was out alone at Santee, circa 1980 something, back by the Twenty Point Boulder when nature called on me to deliver a package. I had other options but I found myself walking uphill along the ridge on a faint trail. Out of sight from any humans that I could see I proceeded to drop my drawers and assume the position. Faintly, I started to detect the familiar sound of something running over the ground and it was quickly getting louder in front of me! I started to raise my eyes (don't forget to recall the position I was in) when a COYOTE appeared coming directly at me at full steam! When his eyes met with mine he put on his brakes, rearing back and coming to a sliding stop in the dirt about fifteen feet before me! He locked eyes with me for a quick second longer then darted to his right, down into the ravine below. I continued watching when out from a bush, a Jack rabbit emerged with the coyote now in close pursuit! Still shaken, I took a deep breath in relief and then realized that I was finished with my delivery!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
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Happy Birthday Ed Hartouni!
This photo must have been taken the same day mine was taken!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Woodson.....Pic I took in early 80's. Sorry for the quality. Any idea what climb ? lynnie
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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FYI, this looks like my older brother! Its not but that's the first thing I thought of when I looked at it. I don't recognize the surroundings. Is it in a California desert? Whoa wait, you changed the picture! Lol, and I still can't place the boulder?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Sorry Gary, my picture posting has not worked well, if at all, since I arrived in Europe. Got the two correct pics up now. Hope they stay in place. It is Woodson...we did a bushwack back in the day to get to this rock. lynne
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