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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 27, 2014 - 08:07am PT
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Get the spam off the front page bump.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 27, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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Or rather..
What did you fall off today?
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 27, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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Thanks to Cal Fire and Mama Africa for chopping wood and carrying water to stop the King Fire. Fire quenching rain this weekend is okay with me.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 27, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 27, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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Haha Rollover! As long as you're flyin' you're tryin'!!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 27, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
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I outdid myself in the Stronghold climbing gym near downtown LA this morning, then had some fabulous tacos at a place around the corner.
A short but sweet session, I did the hardest crack 3 times clean, and got an 11d toprope clean. Decided to close it out with a lap up and down an easy hand crack. Not bad considering I've only climbed a handful of times since the beginning of summer. Now if I get my cardio and endurance act in order, I might not embarrass myself if I ask le_bruce to pull me up something in Yosemite this autumn.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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Climbed a new route on Elkhorn Peak today with a buddy that also grew up in the same town that I went to high school in. We are calling it The Corn Palace Connection. It was his first trad lead and about half of his placements were tipped out, but nobody died and he learned a lot about placing gear so it was all good. He did a 250ft pitch that I simuled on second that was about 5.5 and I did a full pitch of 5.6 after that to the shoulder. We then did a whole bunch of third class with several short sections of 5th class to top out on elkhorn and had quite an adventure getting off and getting back to our gear. Really great rock on the first two pitches with good gear so it was quite fun,It is the long chimney on the right of the formation.
We then did some bouldering at the maze and another route by Boxelder Creek.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Sep 27, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
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Grouse Mtn, elev 9,000' or so – this is that high dome south of the Peabodies. About 5 hrs, couch2couch from 6,000' and maybe a 5 mi desert xc approach hike “a journey of 10,000 miles is worth a thousand words”
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Sep 27, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
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We did 5 short pitches at the Black Cliffs & had a Grand time at it.
Sweet!
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 27, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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Somehow I ended up with two knots in the middle of my rope today.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Sep 28, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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Now that's better.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
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Sep 28, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
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nice photo cosmic!
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thebravecowboy
climber
hold on tight boys
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Sep 28, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
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just moved to Fort Collins, Leggs. I am kinda hoping to be in AZ next summer. I hear it is a great time to climb there. Har-har!
I climbed part of this guy's neighbor-rock yesterday: It is a special place. Joshua Tree on the other hand, man the things it does to people...
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Sep 29, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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Hah The Tippler!
Very nice climb Andy.
Was the thread in at the end of the traverse?
Did you do the other climbs in the vicinity? Unprintable is the same grade but seems to get done much less than the Tippler. Maybe wrist breaking jams to inglorious knee-liebacking is not considered "modern"?
Next step: Tippler Direct - not much harder if you can lock off long enough.
Lasti
Lasti the thread is no longer there but there is a good vertical cam placement at the same place. I tried the direct just afterwards. Thought I had the lock off nailed but that next hold is sooooo far away. :)
Went back the week after and did Left Unconquerable and Little Unconquerable. Two great routes. (Little Unconquerable is the wide crack in the top left of the pic below.)
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snarky
climber
Hoisington
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Sep 29, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
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So she goes to all that trouble to steal the car and the gear and then goes to Rockland?! Ouch. (Buy her a map for her 13th b-day.)
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Sep 30, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
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that looks a lot better,
thanks Andy!
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