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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Oct 25, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Thank you, Da Dweeb. Deliciously fun and funny.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Oct 26, 2011 - 12:08am PT
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Doesn't Martyr's Brigade also include some really contrived difficulty, like "hook" moves involving an ice tool attached to a cheat stick or something like that?
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP01/climbing-note-beyer
Martyr's Brigade is probably the hardest and most dangerous big-wall route on El Capitan
The seventeen-foot stickhook move on pitch 24 bypasses a super-thin flake, but has real bloodbath potential. The "dry tool" move on pitch 11 is unique. By topstepping a big hook, I was able to reach past a twenty-foot blank wall and "dry tool" (my ice axe taped to my twenty-two-foot stickclip) an out-of-sight block. As I jugged my 5.5-mil spectra cord up to the axe I was afraid that it would come off and impale me. When I reached the block I realized it was detached and resting on a narrow down-sloping ledge. I should have been more gripped.
. I drilled a lot of bolts, but chopped about an equal number on surrounding routes. Creating hard pitches, destroying pathetic bolt ladders (Early Morning Light)—it seemed to balance out in the end.
Pretty funny to hear Jim Beyer cheating his way up with a big 22 foot cheat stick (not counting the attached ice tool) and an even bigger ego while calling bolt ladders pathetic.
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Transmission
climber
Dallas, TX
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Oct 26, 2011 - 02:27am PT
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If it wasn't okay for the WoS crew, it shouldn't be okay to do to anyone else, no matter how justified you may feel in doing so. I'm sure that the folks that have harassed the WoS FA team felt justified in their actions (and still do, obviously), but that doesn't make it any less of an incorrect course of action.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 26, 2011 - 05:04am PT
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A right sensible point, Transmission.
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Transmission
climber
Dallas, TX
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Oct 26, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
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Dear Stinkeye,
How about *you* stfu? You have done nothing to add to this thread, or any other around here, in any meaningful or relevant way; this most recent post simply shows the level of stupidity that you are capable of reaching, and your overall level of contribution.
Take your negativity and go find a Proton.
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Transmission
climber
Dallas, TX
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Oct 27, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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Pretty sharp, or pretty cavernous? Probably the latter given some of the things I've heard he's done.
And stinkeye, if that's all you have as a comeback, let me just invite you to participate in the medical improbability of self-impregnation.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 27, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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"my interest level is dropping..."
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 27, 2011 - 02:12am PT
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Well Stinkeye, I'm not sure what to say on that. In general I appreciate your contributions to the thread. It's a bummer to hear the feeling isn't mutual, but I can accept that.
In general I've done my best to contribute positively as I'm able to and on review I feel satisfied that I've reasonably met that goal and kept nonsense posts reserved as responses to nonsense as a general rule. I understand if you disagree.
Though you seem to indicate some ambivalence in your post. When you say you didn't think these threads could get any worse I take that to mean you generally do not like the way these threads have been going for a while now. Do I have that right?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Oct 27, 2011 - 03:03am PT
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in reality though, you are just a dude who advocates for them in their absence, and rather compulsively if i may say so, to the point of seeming somewhat, well, somewhat odd, or unlikely.
at the end of all of this it is pretty interesting to see mimi/grossman and richard/mark so completely absent, is it not?
at times they were all prone to ongoing compulsive attacking or defense, then ammon comes out and says yes it's technically hard but then again it's more of a mental challenge, and oh btw there are a slew of unaccounted for holes on the route past where we thought the other teams had bailed out...
and now-
<crickets>
for me, at the end of the day, the truth is it hardly matters.
will their ever be a third?
after all, the 2nd has come and gone, and ammon didn't seem to think it was so worthwhile of an adventure. that has to influence some people.
maybe WB and MTucker will bag the 3rd?
or stanley will be all set to free the rig on rivets and some magazine hero will bolt it up?
hahaha, as the valley turns...
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 27, 2011 - 03:06am PT
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It's quite a conundrum, isn't it Matt?
Part of me wonders if this maelstrom has finally spun itself out.
Incidentally, I've wondered all this time - you do know you only have to hit the enter key twice to start a new paragraph, right?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Oct 27, 2011 - 03:08am PT
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Part of we wonders if this maelstrom has finally spun itself out.
was that a freudian typo, gentlemen?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 27, 2011 - 03:10am PT
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Nice catch. DERP
Anyway, We and I haven't seen Steve or Mimi since Steve stated that Ammon's A3+ rating vindicated everything he ever said about the route and its climbers, for some reason. Meanwhile Mark's expressed to me that he feels the content of the article demonstrates the merit of the route and the climbing involved well enough for him to be satisfied with what's already been said. Further his priorities are elsewhere between school and family. Richard I haven't spoken with but if his quote at the end of the article is any indication he may simply not see any further merit in engaging here at the moment.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Oct 27, 2011 - 03:24am PT
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Was I called?
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Oct 27, 2011 - 03:25am PT
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I am waiting for the movie.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 27, 2011 - 03:31am PT
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Yup. Should be interesting.
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Mimi
climber
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Oct 27, 2011 - 11:11am PT
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Morning, Matt. Just read the tail end of the thread and saw your posts. For the record, I haven't had any interest in chiming in now that the truth has come out. All I (and others) ever claimed was that Richard was a liar about the hole count since day one. Now that another party has completed the upper pitches where the FA can't claim the drilled holes were due to someone else, the case is closed. The bottom line has always been that the FA was basically incompetent and unprepared and the poor quality of their route is a testimony to that.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 27, 2011 - 04:50pm PT
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All I (and others) ever claimed was that Richard was a liar about the hole count since day one.
That's not all you claim even in this single post.
Now that another party has completed the upper pitches where the FA can't claim the drilled holes were due to someone else, the case is closed.
You don't have any way of knowing where the drilled holes (I assume you refer to the bathook line) came from. The "can't claim they were due to someone else" statement comes from no other source than yourself, and the SA team has stated that minus the bathook line the hole count is accurate to what the FA team reported.
What you refer to as "case closed" they refer to as "one mystery about the route that may never be solved."
The bottom line has always been that the FA was basically incompetent and unprepared and the poor quality of their route is a testimony to that.
Refer to my first statement. You're also ignoring the content of the SA team's report that contradicts this statement in order to focus on what confirms your vitriol. There's much said about the difficulty of the hooking required (and that Ammon learned a good deal as a result) as well as the difficulty of the SA and the fear-effect that it had on the SA team. (Particularly poignant was Ammon's kudos to the FA team for doing it sober.)
Further, the SA team reports that they had a great journey on a route that wasn't easy, improved their range of skills as a result, and that they learned about themselves and each other as well.
It seems to me that's meritorious of a letter home to Princess Celestia in and of itself.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 27, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
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dweeb...ever heard of LEB?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 27, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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Ponyboy: You ever climb El Cap? Or are you strictly rack caddy/ball cupper material?
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