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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 23, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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but what's the deal with the ponies?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Oct 23, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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Hey Pete,
What is the story behind that? Why did he do it?
Prod.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 23, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
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I've done just about every kind of climbing imaginable. To me aid climbing is a means to an end and not an end in itself. I always wonder about the appeal of aid climbing to so many people.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Oct 23, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
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I always wonder about the appeal of aid climbing to so many people.
Hi Jim,
For me the appeal comes in 3 forms.
1. The mechanics and problem solving.
2. Big wall camping.
3. Getting to the top.
Prod.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 23, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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Nicely stated Prod, and Jim, I don't recall calling aid climbing wierd- is that what you think?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Oct 23, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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Jim Beyer is a vandal who while climbing Martyr's Brigade destroyed bolts and rivets on an existing route on El Capitan - WOEML. These chopped anchors have yet to be repaired, and the WOEML route is currently unclimbable.
Accordingly, Martyr's Brigade is a botch job, and I have no respect for Beyer nor his climbing accomplishments. He should go repair what he wrecked.
quite honestly i just think it's incredibly bizarre that you'd see fit to climb up on a high horse and start talking about not respecting another person, considering what lots of people have witnessed you say and do, and i think you know exactly what sort of stuff i am talking about.
who really cares about some holes in some rocks as compare to sh#t like that?
seriously.
edit
question:
if beyer decided to become a born again christian, would he then need to take some responsibility for these misdeeds he's supposedly enacted and go fix the stuff, or would he simply be all set (and worthy of your "respect"), having accepted the lord as his savior?
just curious.
(seriously)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 24, 2011 - 02:23am PT
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I reiterate...what's the deal with the ponies?111!!!666
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 24, 2011 - 03:05am PT
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I would hazard a guess that Da Dweeb is The Obfuscation that is a proxy to the first ascent dudes not being able to explain unexplained Bathooks.
Humans being earnest are better entertainment than any comedian could imagine.
At least my obfuscation is laughable.
In all seriousness Jim, I'm not advocating that anyone should believe one way or the other regarding the bathooks. It's pretty much a given that folk will form their own opinion on the matter based on what they already think about the climb and the climbers. However if you want to, you could PM Madbolter1 to get his take on it.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 24, 2011 - 03:08am PT
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wtf...I've been guilty of aid climbing...but...
ponies?
dweeb are you evading the question?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 24, 2011 - 03:14am PT
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What, regarding the ponies?
Well, what do you want to know?
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Oct 24, 2011 - 03:25am PT
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1363644/3rd-ascent-of-the-WOEML-who-did-it
Until 2002, WEML was a viable climb. It got climbed once a year or every other year.
In the late 80s/early 90s Steve Gerberding redrilled the original section that Robbins chopped. He told me he used 1/4" buttonheads, drilling right next to the chopped bolts(i've only done New Dawn so haven't seen em).
In 96ish Chris McNamara and Brian Paulson replaced most of the anchor bolts, as long as you link according to the Supertopo.
In 2002 Jim Beyer put up Martyr's Brigade, which crosses or touches WEML, ND, Mescalito,Space. Jim reported in Alpinist that he, "I drilled a lot of bolts, but chopped about an equal number on surrounding routes."
In 2004 Hans Florine and Brian McCray tried for the first one day ascent of WEML and were slowed considerably by several chopped bolts. Hans reported that they free-soloed the first pitch, drilled a couple rivets over the climb, and avoided other blank spots with penjiing onto nearby routes.
Later in 2004, Brian McCray and Ammon McNeely paired up for the first one day ascent. I don't believe they drilled any bolts but resorted to the same circuitous climbing tactics to avoid broken bolts.
I don't believe anyone has climbed the route since 2004. I don't believe the bolts on the first pitch have been replaced.
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BlackSpider
Ice climber
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Oct 24, 2011 - 08:59am PT
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Doesn't Martyr's Brigade also include some really contrived difficulty, like "hook" moves involving an ice tool attached to a cheat stick or something like that?
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Transmission
climber
Dallas, TX
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Oct 24, 2011 - 04:24pm PT
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I would hazard a guess that Da Dweeb is The Obfuscation that is a proxy to the first ascent dudes not being able to explain unexplained Bathooks.
It only matters because it is a point of faith that the unfaithful are supposed to believe.
Aid climbing is like being involved with Catechism into adulthood sometimes. There is some liberation but lots of loathing for just doing what it takes to get home.
Humans being earnest are better entertainment than any comedian could imagine.
You've unwittingly described yourself, which is both amusing and not really surprising.
Further, your overwhelming faith in certain things is amazing. I applaud your ultimately futile efforts.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 24, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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I'm just too lazy..er..pressed for time to read back through this dreck to excavate the reason you are posting cute little girl pony images...
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Oct 24, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
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Chop Martyr's Brigade, then more ponies!
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 24, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
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It's another form of communication, I suppose. Sometimes point/counterpoint argument is called for. Sometimes rational analysis. Sometimes reflective listening.
Sometimes ponies.
I like the butterfly, by the way.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Oct 24, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
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did PTPP sh#t on Matt's ropes?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 25, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
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Just for you, Oxymoron:
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Oct 25, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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HAH! Well played, Jim.
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