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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Aug 22, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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PYRO!!! Come back to us!!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 22, 2016 - 10:33pm PT
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Bill- Wrist never felt like it popped or anything, just wasn't prepared to pull as hard as needed for that many moves in a row. I wanna take it easier on my way back and not jump in too deep too fast. Last thing I need is to re-injure myself. Thanks for the invite I had fun and will definitely see you all out there again-
Matt
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Aug 23, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Yo IanR - check out the trailer for the Stoney Point documentary: https://vimeo.com/27140457
Having spent 4 years making the film, I think I can safely say that not one single person I interviewed would be OK with the bolts you installed. Heck, a few of them already told you as much right here in this thread. Many of them have been climbing at Stoney for 30+ years and have represented Stoney Point across the globe. Who are you? How long have you been climbing at Stoney Point and who were the people that approved of your route?
I think the only reasonable course of action now is for you to apologize and remove your bolts. Believe me, that would go a long way. You could be drinking beers with the crew this Thursday!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 23, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Wait i gottapee..... . . . .Many of them have been climbing at Stoney for 30+ years and have represented Stoney Point across the globe. Who are you? How long have you been climbing at Stoney Point ayh. . . . .?(holysht,sic))@v@(
Cole
okay, what year is it again I get that all confused ... What! ....???...well then More like 40+ years!
IanR, I invite you to please come to Conneticut. Where you will find supportive attention
To your bolting of established climbs.
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curlie
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Aug 23, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
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Hey Cole - is the Stoney documentary still for sale online anywhere? I need to buy a copy or two. Either digital or DVD is fine by me.
Edit: Found it. Downloadable version for sale at iClimb.
It was so damned good to see you guys last Thursday. I miss that place so much! Happy I could still do one of my old problems, though I'm bummed that I'm completely out of tune on Bob's mantle. Guess I'll just have to visit more regularly. :)
I don't know that I can add much that hasn't already been said about the bolts. What kind they are, how long they'll last, or how fun it would be to lead the route are all completely missing the point, Ian. The point is that there are pre-established ethics at The Point, and you didn't bother to meet enough locals or do adequate research before busting out the drill. You might getting berated a bit in this thread, but Cole is right. If you can swallow your pride, admit that you acted hastily, and do your bit to make it right, you'll get much better responses.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 23, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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The offending bolts on Machine Gun /Pin Scars are now gone. I just got a text from the chopping committee. Fact.
Ian R, I sincerely hope you learn something from this and learn to ask around before adding bolts to a route you didn't do the first ascent of.
Show up by Turlock on Thursday and I'll have a beer for ya, for real, no joke.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 23, 2016 - 07:12pm PT
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I'd take Levy up on his offer. Most of the people speaking out against the bolts are some of the coolest climbers I've met. Class acts in my view, though class is subject to perspective, lol.
Hope the Stoney Crew is doing good.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 23, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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Hey Justin, check your email. I owe you something.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 23, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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Didn't get an email Levy. jross 1 8 38 @ gmail.com with no spaces is my primary one.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2016 - 08:25am PT
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Good god you can tow a truck outta the ditch with those things.. thanks guyman levy for cleaning this crap off the wall..
Do the bolt holes need patching?
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:38am PT
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Could someone please throw a fresh coat of paint on that bench. Bob would appreciate it.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:41am PT
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The bolts got CHOPPED yesterday! WOO HOO. Done deal. THANKS.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:47am PT
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Hi, Pyro.... Curle.... Justin ... et all.
I didn't need to lift a finger. By the time I got there after work at 5:45.... the mess was all cleaned up. Some grinding of the epoxy and blending in will be completed soon....
and to Ian and Getty.... come on out, nobody is going to hold anything against you. We have all done things that pissed off the old Establishment.
Thank you to all that helped.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 09:29am PT
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Put a bolt in IANs head. there is nothing inside it but marbles. What was he thinking, look at me I'm so cool, I RAP bolted a TR that was put up before he was born.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 24, 2016 - 09:42am PT
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All my film canesters are wacked! How old is that grey top with the tape?
..J Constine. . . . . What was he thinking look at me I'm so cool, I RAP bolted a TR that was put up before he was born.
My invitation to IanR is also For Real, come east, There is all kinds of rock .and crowds wanting to climb, if only it was all in place for them. Pick an area find quality rock you like.
The south east maintains as strict ethics but also has a vast off grid - around every corner of
rock is a line of bolts in some places.
There is a bit of a slow anchor seed program, that needs any skilled volunteer.
Get here and Guide, Gym/1pitch job and the gym can pay you for developing cliffs for them..
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:21am PT
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If you are thinking of doing this...placing bolts at Stoney Point. Please ask the community first. Sport routes will not be tolerated by the community. I have been climbing at SP since 1978. Pitons used to be banged in cracks...thankfully, this is not going on anymore. The community does not tolerate pins. Same goes for bolted climbs...ZERO tolerance.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2016 - 11:25am PT
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I heard a BBQ is on the horizon?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:32pm PT
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^^^^ after a saw how they make Hotdogs. I will never eat one again. Disgusting at the very least.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:35pm PT
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Lips and as#@&%es Jeff, no different than chorizo. Mmmmm mmmm good.
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
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I have some paint that will match really well, I'll get it. I grew up here and I love this place. I was not trying to f*#k it up.
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