southern yosemite

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Tork

climber
Yosemite
Mar 1, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
NoRush, are one of those shots 50 5.7s Dome?

Those two long 10+s are two of the best out there.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Mar 1, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
halacious rock quality!
LongAgo

Trad climber
Mar 1, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Clint,

I think you got it, especially comparing the "indenture" above my head in the old photo to that in the new. As I said, I think the second pitch of Sahib goes up and left from where I was pictured at the end of the first pitch, so that's somewhere in the vicinity of the climber you show. Again, of course, old bolts will tell the story. Thanks!

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Camahoo

Trad climber
Shaver Lake
Mar 1, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
In climbing (rock only) the ethics, style and peer respect has always rotated around the age old argument of gate in or out. As for me i'm a gate out lifer.

Thank you GRAHM DOE for letting me get the 2nd on "Limp-Wristed Dike Fistin 5.10a". I had loads of fun on it and look foward to climbing it again. I hope the next time I climb it, the crack does not have to appear as if has just been aided.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 2, 2009 - 12:05am PT
thx Camahoo. totally see it now.


I used to gate in. No exceptions.

Now, I do gate out on my harness for draws. Rack still is gate in.


poor bastard partners that don't know that I put the buckle on my gear sling on my backside... then they have all the gear going the wrong way. suckahs!

small gear front. big gear back, until a certain size.


what's the local ethic for SoSierra?
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
O a k t o w n
Mar 2, 2009 - 01:56am PT
NoRushNoMore , sick photes .
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 2, 2009 - 03:14am PT
G,

looks steep. nice pics

mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Mar 2, 2009 - 05:44pm PT
"You all sound like a bunch of gate-inners."

We'd rather be know as gate-inners than say......gate puller outers! HA! Poor Tim.

What's up Cam? Would you please quit work and show up from time to time. Damn you man! Would love to see you in July at the LE gig. Come check out the fun stuff. BTW, Roger and I finally tried out 'Howdy Douty Time' (sp?). You guys are royal sandbaggers!! Exfoliation hell I say! For some reason, the Peter Gabriel song, "Digging In The Dirt" comes to mind. ;)



mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Mar 2, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
For your salivating pleasure...... (sorry Nate)

FAing 'Burrito Bandito' on Cinco De Mayo day

Enjoying the casual end on 'Three Feathers'

Tiki-Ger showin' off his pride and joy 'Power To The People'

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 2, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
WHOA! How hard is that one Tiki?

Protected?

beeyootimus

it looks familiar to me. have I seen that before?
mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Mar 2, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
I think you have Rob. Ger has it posted on SP as one of his profile shots. The root Ger is on is 5.9R. First bolt is 20' up then runs out on little nubbins for 35' before reaching the next bolt. 4 bolts (with a few knobs near the top to sling) in 130'. Stuff that puts hair, instead of peach fuzz, on your bolsa!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Mar 2, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
One of the opening moves on Howdy Doody Time was pretty stout (perfect pro placement tho). The rest was pretty mellow though. Cool route though.
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
Mar 2, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
Camahoo - Great job on the 2nd of "Limp-Wristed Dike Fistin 5.10a". Thanks for helping to come up with such a great name! One of things I love about putting up new routes is sharing them with others. It was great to see you fighten for the send. Heres a pic I snapped of you on it.



Heres one of me on that high ball too...


Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
Mar 2, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
Great photos from everyone so far! I have been to all the areas shown. Except Mooch's shot of the Taffy Wall. Which I suspect is out in Exile. Don't worry I won't spill the beans on that spot. Nothing wrong with the guys who find a new crag keeping it to themselves for a while to pick their cherry lines.

In the spirit of having a little fun here's a few shots of walls seen only by a few Shuteye explorers. I know of heaps more but 2 out of the 3 walls pictured below still have NO routes yet. With out disclosing their exact location has anyone out there seen all 3 of these gems? Do you know which one has routes on it? If you wish to play you can be vagely general in the area of your answer. For example "High Eagle Area" Crazy Horse is the only one I can think of that may have seen all three. So hold out a little while Crazy to see if anyone else has earned their bush whacking metal of honor.

#1


#2


#3

mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Mar 3, 2009 - 02:14am PT
"The rest was pretty mellow though."

Mellow??? By bolt #4, Roger was peeling dirty micro flakes and blowing off the route three seperate times! Rog grew up sending 5.10 Tollhouse slab route, my friend. The opening move (protected by a bolt) was no harder than 5.8, at best. The upper section (which skirted to the left of 'Mineral Magic' about 30') got tougher, exfoliating and dirtier!!

Randy, are you thinking about 'Think Nothing Of It' (.10b)? Put up by Cam, Lenni and Barry in '03? The first 25' of that route are tough while the remaining pitches are fairly moderate.
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Mar 3, 2009 - 02:23am PT
Speaking of Tollhouse....we were out there Saturday morning early (on the first pitch at 4:30 am.......had to be back before family breakfast) and brought my new little HD camcorder. Have a peek all yall So Yo Punks. This is how we do 5.7 in style.

http://www.vimeo.com/3447948
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 3, 2009 - 02:39am PT
too nice Grahm. looks perfect for slinging knobs to drill from. :)
NoRushNoMore

climber
Mar 3, 2009 - 06:36am PT
Grahm, your pix cropped too small to be any useful for guessing ;)

I have not seen #1 but the other two (or at least one of them) could be parts of the dome that you find going west/downhill from the observation tower (passing by a fun short 30 feet or so overhanging on all sides tower/boulder).

It's a smaller dome may be 150 feet or so. There was just one bolt that I saw on it leading nowhere (may be a trad route)
perswig

climber
Mar 3, 2009 - 06:57am PT
Sweet edit on the vid, micronut. Thanks for putting that together. You earned your cholesterol that day.
Dale
dickcilley

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Mar 3, 2009 - 08:37am PT
Lets see some crack pics.Wheres the "Love Supreme"of s. Yos.?
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