Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
If I lived in Flag I could go to Elden every day when school lets out @ 3.
And I would!
I'd maybe even go there on my Bike.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
|
Just got an e-mail from Chris on John's Jugs - he sent. Said it was the most painful "5.12" he has ever done. Crap feet, painful locks & bad gear - good stuff!
:^}
|
|
DJMac
Big Wall climber
Bonedale, CO
|
|
Awesome thread ... great photos! Wish I had more of my time in AZ. I guess I didn't hang out with the photographer types (except Hatcher), and I'm not in any of the photos, lol.
Thanks for sharing all the photos ... brought back some really great memories and kept me from getting a lot of work done today.
AZ climbing rocks!
BTW ... who ever mentioned "secret canyon" ... YOUR FIRED. ;)
Remember the cover photo from Mountain Tools by B Hatcher, BW of a guy climbing a pointed flake? That's me, at Secret.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Gotta get on Megadeath! It's my favorite route and my favorite band! Not...
|
|
rick d
climber
tucson, az
|
|
So Russ, what did you think?
You have more wide gear than I have ever seen any leader with on that pitch.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Clearly Mutant Weight Training or voices from the depths!
FA went with a rusty buttonhead and a #10 Hex!
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
|
|
Just the standard quads to 16" ;) Had the doubles on #5 and #6, and singles in the #4's on down. The fixed head still looks nice for a 1938 placement..... bolt is fat and shiny now.
Climbing was fairly continuous and strenuous in my condition. No real crux, but all about the same. Probably 5.8+ in Josh or 5.14c in the Gym. Calling it 5.9 seems like a pretty good sandbag. Does that place ever see sun? Did the first pitch in a down jacket.... Susan was a Soozesickle™™™ at the belay. We were going to bail right there at the top of #1, but I decided to at least do the wide pitch since I humped all that gear up there. She reminded me that there were no anchors at the top of #2.... oops.... Set out knowing I would need to cut a few favorite children loose from the stopper rack to get back down. Good stuff! Free gear at the belay! b00ty!!!111
|
|
rick d
climber
tucson, az
|
|
...and remember all those who hate the hard wide. Dean Brault and Dave Des Champs did a 2 bolt (10+) face variation into the top of pitch 2 on Abra from Knead Me (so a little 5.7 chimney on first pitch).
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
What a great pic of DB on the classic grunt pitch.
I think I once led pitches one and two together on Abra w/ JJ.
He did not want to lead anything and I wanted to get it over with.
As I recall, I regretted it up there where the second starts to pinch down and kick you out right.
I'm wondering if you can really do them together or if it's just an old man's fading memory. (I did lead everything that day but maybe it's a fantasy of 1 and 2 as one.)
Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
Steve:
I'd been hearing that Twilight Zone was considered 5.10c or d but it shows up on Mountain Project still as 11- (with only one consensus.)
Sure is steep though and because of that and the rock type, somewhat painful. I'd be sure and be wearing my jammies these days
(gad's what an admission, but as I saw Baxter once justify it, 30 years of crack scar tissue prefers those cheater gloves.)
More theft from of Larry Coats images:
Baxter did the FA with aid.
Larry was w/ Ed Webster when they did the FFA.
Ed on the FFA
And Larry was there the day Steve did the 2nd FFA with me as belay slave (circa spring 77):
Check out that special nut on Steve's left side !
Actually, this thing absolutely sews up with trad nuts because the crack is so pocketed. I personally think passive pro is way better on a climb like this than cams. It won't walk, it won't get in the way of the jam, and you can hang a truck off a 9 hex buried in a pocket.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
|
|
Funny though that no one ever talks about that first pitch.
It's no give away in terms of pro.
Maybe new gear helps but isn't that thing just a seam with typical friction/balance 5.9 seam climbing ?
The first pitch of Abra, right?
Modern pro is real good. The seam takes small to med cams pretty good and then there is the 1854 rusted bolt. I thought the first pitch was harder than it looks (looks about 5.7) and kinda funky. I just did it like a salmon going upstream, using a flat left leg and an heel toe on the outside of the shallow flare, upper body stuffed in as deep as possible. The crux is pretty short at about a body length or so. Top of the pitch has some fat rap anchors. It sure looks like pitches one and two will go together, for sure with a 70m since both raps (from top of two, and top of one) can be done easily with one rope.
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
Thnx for the update Russ.
That's how I remember that first pitch.
Nothing like knowing OW climbing for getting up seamy grooves.
Man, if it's got nice rap anchors, why didn't they replace that POS bolt at the same time.
As I recall, it's a 1/4" in a freaking water groove.
It was rusted out back in the 70's.
And what AZ thread would be complete with out a picture of Tim Coats
(one of the most unheralded crack climbers most of you've never heard of):
Once again, another theft from Larry, Tim on 2nd ascent of Ultimate Finger Crack:
Pic by Dougald Bremner, RIP...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Ed Webster won the humor category in a Climbing photo contest (#62 Sept-Oct 1980) with this classic shot of Scott clowning around at his own personal basalt bouldering clifflet minutes from his old haunts at Forks.
Meanwhile back at the house...the goat is in the pit and its bottle walking and caber tossing out back!
Many a later Syndicato Granitica Banquet was hosted by Scott at Parks.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
|
|
I need a miracle
|
|
pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
Great Pic of Scotty. Same contest as the picture I posted earlier.
Steve, I have some good slides of us at Parks Wall years ago.
I'll have to dig them up and scan them one of these days...
Pretty fun place...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Especially for right out back!
Any Cwm photos?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
It's the 21st century, already, do people still climb in that obscure state?
Brutus told me today that he mugged some punk ( I may have the odd detail off,) for a brand new Sedona guide. It Bloomed on me, that that wasn't very likely. Is it?
How do I get mine? I don't think I can successfully mug Brutus....
|
|
supesclimber
Boulder climber
mesa
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
|
hey jaybro, can you do Zonerland ni March?
MC
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
|
Yeah J-brah... c'mon out here and do Zonerland!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!