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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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this thread should be bumped every once and awhile,
in particular, shouldn't the traditional histories of Valley climbing include the contributions of everyone?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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If anyone still cares about "Women Climbers," then I can tell you about Annie Rizzi. We last climbed together at Suicide in 1972. My then-wife, Dolores, and I were living in Oxnard (Okie Flats on 101, more properly Nyland Acres). We picked up AR in Northridge. My van, the white whale Econoline known as DORF, took us there in fine style, as usual. Dolores just read a book or something while Annie showed me her fanny on a climb next to the Pirate. I mean, she had some cut-offs cut way off and I am sounding sexist, aren't I? But gee, she ought to have included her damn undies, I'm sorry. Maybe she just wanted me to really watch her as I provided her belay, but what guy can guess a lady's motives? Annie was a lady, no matter her outspoken liberated mindset.
She was a Valley Girl who became a Valley Climber, and I hate all this gargle about "Women Climbers" who are,simply, "Climbers." Why use that sexist modifier, Dear People? I think we can all agree it simply don't mean anything in our modern world. Who's the free-nose firstie? A climber who happened to be a girl. I rest the case.
Back to Annie and our history.
We climbed the Gunsight the day before I was scheduled to begin a new job in The Mountain Shop. They had hired me, Bobby Ashworth, and Andy Cox. I needed to get to the U-shaped Bowl on MCR to retrieve a haulsack left there several days prior. Annie volunteered to go and we planned to climb the NW Buttress, which is a route hardly ever done since Al MacDonald, I think it was, did it. He was a rarity who, like me, apparently enjoyed routes which were literally "off the walls" and in gullies, chimneys, etc., per Mr. Riper in Camp 4, which I just read again last night, so I think my history is good. Doesn't matter, we got to our objective, eventually.
So we got in the vicinity, I climbed up a straight-in jam for many feet, found an old soft piton and we just figured this had to be it. I don't know how long this took to go from there to the summit, but I remember a lot of open rock then brush then more rock then a pine and more brush and it was a challenge to find a route, but nobody complained and we shared leads. She could break brush with anyone except a bear, who is the undisputed king of the brush. Annie way, she took to it and I was glad to have her company. Guys I know would've bitched and moaned the whole day, but she reserved comment. A lady, like I have indicated. This was not an "easy day for the ladies," either. Pretty hot out there in the brush. And looking for snakes, of course, we saw none. (It's only when you are unprepared. I don't hate snakes, even though I'm the Mouse. I just don't like to be a-scared when I ain't expectin' to be, as the Okie Flatters might could put it. I love Oxnard like I love the brush.)
When we arrived at the Bowl, she stayed up top while I rapped down, tossed off the pig, and then she belayed me back to the anchor. As it happened, the gear Millis and I had in the bag got spread out in the forest and talus down below. I did yell out a warning, of course. Chuck Pratt was wandering around down there, of all people, at the base of the Chouinard-Pratt route, which was what Dillis and I had climbed. He was able to watch as the bag unloaded in its descent and piled our loose gear by the naughty pig. What a prince! We'd never have tracked it all down when we got to the base as it was like 3 a.m., our batteries were fried by then, and we were very tired after butt-walking down the Cathedral Chimney and the talus. Night ranging, it's called.
It happens that CP performed the same kindness in 1974 when my partner dropped a guide pack off the 3-D from above Mammoth Terraces. Life is no stranger than it can be when you are in the Magic Kingdom. God just has a little thing for coincidence there, I guess.
Annie and I got down waaay after dark. She and my lady, Dolores, were good with the late night as they had a mutual trust. And I made it to work on time. Thank you for the experiences, Ms. Rizzi. I am lucky to have climbed with you. I wish I could do so again.
Oh where oh where has Anne-Marie gone, oh where oh where can she be?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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Anne-Marie has participated here in the past and will likely join in if she hears about your postings.
Do a forum search for Anne-Marie Rizzi and you can get in touch with her directly.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Hi, Grocer. Thanks. I'm all new here the last couple weeks. I appreciate it.
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Mouse from Merced. I last heard from Rizzi two years ago, and she was living in the South west. i lost her addy when my old computer died... try emailing her through SuperTopo.
Not my picture, but one of my favorites..................I have many fond memories hanging with Rizzi....
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Apr 16, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Mouse, great stories!
Per your comment: "I hate all this gargle about "Women Climbers" who are,simply, "Climbers." Why use that sexist modifier, Dear People? I think we can all agree it simply don't mean anything in our modern world. Who's the free-nose firstie? A climber who happened to be a girl. I rest the case."
I would say that firstie is what proved the case. Before Lynn Hill it was not so clear.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jan 25, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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Bumping this thread for the climbing content and to remind that boobs aren't women's only assets - or controversies.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 24, 2013 - 01:29am PT
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hey there say, all... nice that mouse, and then jan, had recently bumped this...
here we go... nice bump...
:)
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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Jun 24, 2013 - 02:36am PT
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Thanks for the bump Neebee. I'd missed that early vintage Mouse post. Good stuff!\
Eric
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 24, 2013 - 10:09am PT
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I'm gonna bump this thread again by including a photo of our own Jan!
This was taken at the summit (per Clint Cummins!) of Monday Morning Slab, June 1965 by Roger Dalke.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 24, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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For those who've been following this thread over the past 3 years, an update on Anne Carrier (Raubach) seems in order. Her Huntington's Disease continues progressing rapidly and she no longer able to walk. An unscrupulous lawyer rammed a divorce through on "her behalf," based on some Paranoid delusions and Schizophrenia. Her life expectancy ins now less than a year. My thoughts and prayers are always with her.
I last visited her at the nursing home in Minnesota 2 1/2 months ago, and she still has memories of her rock climbing days. This was one of her favorite photos:
P.S. added in edit: Date was Spring, 1985.
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Jun 24, 2013 - 10:32am PT
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Great thread. (Good to balance out all of the testosterone around here, anyway.)
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jun 24, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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So sad, Rodger.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jun 24, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
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Wow, sad news.
Love this chick thread, glad my name-doppelganger started it!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 24, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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Cool. This looks like the top of Monday Morning Slab, rather than the base.
You can edit the captions of your photos, although there is a limit on the length of text.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jun 24, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Not sure why I don't look as happy as Rodger in this shot. Hangover perhaps?
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SpokaneBob
Ice climber
Spokane, Washington
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Jun 24, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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Dear All,
I thought I could add a few names of impactful female climbers from the 1960s and 1970s from the Pacific Northwest. I never climbed with these persons, but I did meet and have conversation with several. My general recollection is they were every bit the committed climber as the men of the time, and led difficult pitches. One is Carla Firey (FA on Snow Creek Wall, Levenworth, WA). Another is the wife (sorry I cannot remember her first name) of Al Givler, who died, I think, in 1976 climbing in Alaska (I think--someone should fact check me). Another who did a fair amount of FAs in the Stuart Range near Leavenworth, WA, who partnered with Mark Weigelt, was Julie Brugger (sp?). Nearer to my home, Spokane, WA., there was a very athletic woman (sorry name escapes me--but it will come to me) who broke the stereotype of the time, which was women only seconded, never climbed anything harder that 5.8, and never ice climbed. She came along and within a short while was climbing easy 5.10 and ice climbed in the winter--this would have been 1971/72. I recall that the role of women climbers in Spokane was never the same after she showed up. She now lives in Alaska, but I do not know if she still climbs. Generally it seemed that by the late 1970s (at least in the local climbing scene) competent, athletic female climbers were no longer a novelty. Within the larger culture many things had changed for women (ex., 1960s womens' liberation movement, Title 9 in athletics, etc.). So in retrospect it is no surprise that as the 1970s wore on and enter the 1980s that women in greater numbers with greater commitment, skill, and fitness were entering climbing. Sorry I am not more help, but my recollection of those people from 40 years ago is a bit weak.
Cheers,
Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 25, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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To answer Jan's self-question: we were both pretty hot and thirsty, but I was still smiling about being outta' the Army after 3 years.
This is somewhat more typical!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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SpokaneBob,
Carla Firey, Linda Givler, and Julie Brugger are mentioned several times earlier in this thread. It will take some time to read through, but maybe it will also jog your memory on the person's name you can't recall at present.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 25, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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One of my favorite threads bump
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!