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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 29, 2018 - 03:58pm PT
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Snowy Mountain ,New York,5.8 all over it.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 29, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
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Likewise.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Aug 29, 2018 - 06:33pm PT
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North Ridge of Steeple, in the Winds is a fine five eighter.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 29, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
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Mike Church leads Baby, Shawangunks, 1980...one of our first climbs in the 'Gunks, chosen because "how hard can 5.8 be?"
...By the way, Baby is an interesting 5.8 to lead... usually we did it, BITD, with about 4 pieces to the belay.
This is my oldest image of 5.8, and I've shown most of my other images (at least the presentable ones)...
Bad news Ed. Back in 1980, Baby was 5.6. With the passage of time, it has made it up to 5.7. It may well finally get to 5.8, but no idea how long that will take.
As the difficulty rating have gone up, the seriousness has gone down, from ground-fall level protection when Fritz did it to an overhead pro from a large cam nowadays. Progress!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 29, 2018 - 07:50pm PT
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Ed mentioned the unknown chimney at Eagle Lake
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Aug 30, 2018 - 10:24am PT
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5.8 could be anything and that's great. but really the whole YDS could be broken down to 3 ratings 5.9+ 5.10+ and 5.11+. what else do you need ?
leave "sandbag" out of it. Your now a victim because the routes was to hard for you and your ego?
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hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
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Aug 30, 2018 - 01:23pm PT
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meat and potatoes of Coffin Nail, Tahquitz
PS. With respect to some of the ratings discussion above, it seems 5.0 to 5.3 are almost completely ignored these days. It's like scrambling continues through 5.3 (people say "oh it's easy fifth I just soloed it), and if you use a rope it's automatically 5.4 or higher.
Even the Mountain Project listings for Tahquitz are bogus. Both The Trough and White Maiden's are listed as 5.4. Thought they were 'the definition' of 5.0 and 5.1, respectively.......?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 31, 2018 - 09:14am PT
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of course, right there in my ancient copy of Williams "red" guide to the 'Gunks (bought in 1980), is the exact point that rgold makes, Baby is 5.6.
A good climb and a fine tribute to the first ascent party.
FA 1941: Fritz Wiessner, Mary Cecil, and Betty Woolsey.
Amazing symmetry, having done the climb 39 years after the FA, and discussing that ascent 38 years later.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Aug 31, 2018 - 01:21pm PT
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Anyone out there have a photo of Sparerib in Gallatin Canyon Montana?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 31, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
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Ah Steeple! Climbed it years ago. We didn't tunnel through and instead climbed an offwidth crack on the left side of the boulder that forms the roof of the tunnel. Why? I have no idea.
A major epic ensued when the weather came in while we were just starting the summit raps, a reminder that 5.8 can turn from mellow to hell-oh! in the mountains.
I wrote about it elsewhere on this site: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/893158/A-walk-with-McCarthy-in-the-Winds
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 31, 2018 - 04:55pm PT
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There is nothing like the Winds,IMO. Good Stuff.
Miss them,I am going to ski Gannett before ..... I have been close.
I will.It is a serious mixed climb, descent,a commitment.
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