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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 16, 2016 - 07:26pm PT
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After practicing his 5.14 LB skills up there, should jump on magic line before leaving. It needs a 2nd FA too I believe.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 07:37pm PT
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Matty, I was just thinking about 2-nd of Magic Line. Ron would be happy if someone climb it after 20 years since FA
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 16, 2016 - 08:09pm PT
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Yeah Alexey it's surprising it hasn't gotten more attention, especially in the more recent years with all the hard trad climbing that has been going on.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Nov 16, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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This is all insane AWESOME of course!!!
Curious though....has anyone to date actually freed The Nose? As in truly redpointing it...every pitch from start to finish consecutively with no falls?
I don't think so but correct me if I'm wrong. If I'm right that sure seems like quite the prize that nobody talks about...
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 16, 2016 - 09:19pm PT
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The full length film about TC's and KJ's ascent of the Dawn Wall is a huge undertaking featuring multi-level difficulties and plagued by self-doubt. This daunting undertaking might take as long as 7 years to complete.
I guess it will be vintage like "El Capitan". Seven years seems like an absurd amount of time.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Nov 16, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
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matty wrote: "Yes Ondra is doing it pretty fast so far, but he is also the only one climbing and I'm sure it would be taking longer if he had a partner who was switching leads and trying to free everything as well. Tommy would have been done much sooner if he had been the only free climber."
that's an interesting take and no doubt true regarding tommy waiting a bit for kevin at the end...
but i have actually had exactly the opposite reaction regarding the climbing as a whole.
tommy and kevin swung leads on much of the climb and only settled in to both redpoint pitches 13-17. the rest of the time, according to this, they would swing leads, and when one of them redpointed the pitch, the other climber would free it as a second and would therefore be toproped. for example, on the second half of the route, when kevin was trying to catch up to tommy he top roped pitches 19-21 [3 X 5.13] because tommy had already freed them a few days earlier...
ie. i have trouble agreeing that ondra's leading every pitch is somehow making this easier and faster than it would be for him if he had a partner with equal skills who could set up a top rope for him on almost half of the route...
[this should in no way, shape or form be read as disrespect for what tommy and kevin achieved. their story is and was one of a team of two obsessively throwing themselves into the void hoping to find a free climbable path of crystals through a 3000' often blank wall and it was, especially for tommy, one of the greatest stories, that i can recall seeing with regards to rock climbing, of an archetypal hero slaying emotional and psychological dragons over the course of near to a decade. because of all that comparing what ondra is doing to what tommy and kevin did is to compare good ole apples to oranges. with that said, i can't see ondra being slowed down if he had a partner who could set topropes for him on half of the sub 5.14 pitches...]
in short, i find this all the more, not less, remarkable precisely because ondra is doing this effectively solo.
it's not like this climb is a clip up, and what ondra is achieving psychologically by doing it, with regards to the climbing itself, effectively solo, makes the physical achievement of actually doing all the pitches free, even that much more astounding and dramatic.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 17, 2016 - 10:08am PT
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plus Tommy has one less finger so....=)
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Nov 17, 2016 - 10:09am PT
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plus Tommy has one less finger so....=)
Less weight. Possibly an unfair advantage :-)
Curt
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 17, 2016 - 10:57am PT
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Has anyone mentioned the similarities here to Lauria and Robbins repeating the Harding / Caldwell climb? It's not exactly the same.....it's interesting though. Similarity maybe that Ondra expected to blow through it? I'm not putting that on him but Robbins said he was impressed with the difficulty and didn't expect it.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 17, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
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According to Pavel Blazek Instagram Adam climbing today p14, and 15
pavelblazekIt's pretty exciting morning! There is pitch #14 and #15 waiting for Adam today and at least for me there are the last pitches in Adams way to succeed on this route. Seeing him climbing through the top part of the route the other day makes me feel pretty confident he can sent the rest of the pitches ok. Sure the pitch #16 and probahly #21 won't be easy and there can be some unexpected surprises but the spirits are high!
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BM60QmOhQOA/?taken-by=pavelblazek
BTW, McHale's Navy, Ondra never "expected to blow through it" as far as know at least never say this publicly
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 17, 2016 - 12:48pm PT
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from Adam...
Waiting for the late afternoon shade to give pitch 14 (5.14d) a shot and if it works out, keep on going through the pitch 15 (5.14c or d) in the dark. Then it is all opened and depending on how I will feel.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BM7AmH-AcyE/?taken-by=adam.ondra
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Nov 17, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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^^^^^
This seems more right, but that is some thin laybacking!!!
...Climb Ondra climb on your Muirystery trip!
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Nov 17, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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^ ^ ^
Are those tick marks placed seemingly every several inches in the above picture?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 17, 2016 - 05:40pm PT
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BTW, McHale's Navy, Ondra never "expected to blow through it" as far as know at least never say this publicly
Thanks Alexey, I did say;
Similarity maybe that Ondra expected to blow through it? I'm not putting that on him....... Expecting to blow through it would not be a bad thing, and I did say I'm not putting that on him. I was mostly just pointing out what ever similarities there may be in the repeating of the climbs so many years apart. It's like history repeating itself. I have been around long enough to follow both, like many of us here.
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Loco de Pedra
Mountain climber
Around the World
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Nov 17, 2016 - 06:37pm PT
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Go Adam Ondra!
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Nov 17, 2016 - 09:23pm PT
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it couldn't be epic, if there weren't challenges... from ondra's instagram regarding today's attempts:
Damn! Climbed super poorly, so much pressure, so nervous! Needed 7 tries to make it through the first boulderproblem on pitch 14, a boulderproblem that i never really found very hard before, but somehow felt really hard today. I slipped on my first try, then on my second try, then just freaked out and felt so insecure with my feet trying to climb as carefully as possible but kept slipping nevertheless. Then, on my 7th try, I did the boulderproblem, and fell from the last move.
Hard to find some optimism, but I will try it again. Tomorrow and hopefully with better mindset.
Thanks everyone for encouragement! I am sorry for today, hopefully there is still the chance!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 18, 2016 - 06:25am PT
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^^^^ don't think he's doing it for the wrong reasons. He seems pretty sincere in his efforts and attitudes while in the valley. English is not his first language and I think he's just dissappinted with himself and sorry he couldn't do better in the general sense. I'm rooting for him to get it done this trip, but maybe el cap and the weather will say otherwise.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 18, 2016 - 06:43am PT
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Thanks everyone for encouragement! I am sorry for today, hopefully there is still the chance!
The guy is endearing himself to this climber. Passion and connected to the peeps, love it. Insane route, Tommy, Kevin, and Adam, dream away!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 18, 2016 - 06:57am PT
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I figure that owning to a kind and generous nature, Adam is supposing that many people are likewise rooting for him to make the send, and when things go hard, as they inevitably do during a push - as opposed to jugging up and cherry picking the hardest leads - he doesn't want to let down his followers or himself. But so it goes on a push. For Kevin, it was largely a problem of blown tips. Once Adam gets through the crux traverse pitches, I suspect his biggest challenge will be leading the 5.12 wide sections on gear, and several loom above him, including the nasty flare that almost defeated Kevin, just a few hundred feet from the top.
This is great drama in any event. Hard to imagine the guy being a better representative of modern rock climbing. Bold, modest and nails tough.
Send it, amigo!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 18, 2016 - 07:09am PT
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I'm with Largo. Regardless the outcome, Adam is making a lot of fans over on this side of the pond. His climbing speaks for itself as does his attitude which seems equal parts of tenacity and humbleness. What comes thru the most for me is his passion and joy. Remember this is new, tough ground for him snd he seems to be eating it up, even the gristle which he finds hard to digest.
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