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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2017 - 03:41pm PT
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I stopped by REI today and picked up a eno hammock hanger for the museum! 20kn and polished chrome finish!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 24, 2017 - 11:36pm PT
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MERRY CHRISTMAS
Hey, Marty, I was wondering if you or any one else remembers the old thin gauge (Quarter in hole?) SMC hangers from around 1978(?) that may have had a bad batch or two?I think that by 1980 they were better?
Clint ?!
This?? ! No of course not
, this is always thought it to be -old home made- , un-finishedVery Sharpe edges
yes was just looking back for some mention.
in your travels did you ever climb in Saranac Lake NY, or know the origin of the 4 bolts on Baker Mt? For some reason I seem to think that Todd Eastman went to Paul Smiths?
Thnx for the link.
Marty covered all models of the SMC hangers in his post upthread on October 7, 2015:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2638012&msg=2698768#msg2698768
There are some bolts of that late 70s vintage, just 40 years later, it would be fun to ask Al Jolley, if he gnows who put them in . . . . . . ,the,climb,I,did?.
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unlocked gait
Gym climber
the range
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Dec 25, 2017 - 09:57am PT
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every run-on climb needs a comma
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2017 - 06:21pm PT
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Nice large ring bolt!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 27, 2017 - 10:52am PT
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Ice screw cemented in at Stoney Point
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 28, 2017 - 05:24am PT
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Got a question about some specific bolts that I have always wondered about.
The year was 1980-1981 and the bolts were belay anchors at the station at the end of the first traverse right off the Muir (top of P16?). This is a photo from that belay:
All of the hangers looked like they were L-shaped aluminum, and they were all broken where you clip in. We ended up slinging the pinnacle there for a belay, which was kinda scary because as I nailed up to the belay some my pins down below fell out.
Does anyone remember these hangers? What they hell were they? Who replaced them?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
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PETZL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 30, 2017 - 02:32pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat,
Got a question about some specific bolts that I have always wondered about.
The year was 1980-1981 and the bolts were belay anchors at the station at the end of the first traverse right off the Muir (top of P16?).
All of the hangers looked like they were L-shaped aluminum, and they were all broken where you clip in. We ended up slinging the pinnacle there for a belay, which was kinda scary because as I nailed up to the belay some my pins down below fell out.
Does anyone remember these hangers? What they hell were they? Who replaced them? Those were Yvon's homemade hangers. They were still on the traverse when I did it in 1998.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 30, 2017 - 06:08pm PT
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Clint, that photo of the YC hanger was not what I saw.
The ones that we saw were stupid L shaped hangers. When you loaded the hanger the force acted to lever the bolt out of the hole. Like pulling nails with a claw hammer.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2017 - 06:21pm PT
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Maybe a Gerry Pop-top hanger? Maybe the hanger is shown on previous post on this thread?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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May 31, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
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A few from a little accent piece in my shop:
Kris
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2018 - 10:39pm PT
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Scrubber - Great relics! This pound in bolt item you show, Is it possible you can pull it off of the display and get a picture of the overall item? I am curious how it locks into the rock. By chance do you know who made it?
Thanks for sharing your treasures!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2018 - 02:27pm PT
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I know that I have created some very large amazing climbing gear displays already, but for some reason I feel this little display board by itself sits up there with the greats! I felt goosebumps the whole time while putting this art piece together. There is soooo much HUGE history on this board!!!! I feel totally Blessed that God found a way to include me into the Yosemite story.
I recently added the Yosemite Relics to the Karabin Museum display at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2018 - 02:52pm PT
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These are pictures of the hammers that are at the bottom of the bolting display at the Phoenix Rock Gym. I added a few more hammers recently. Viewing from display right to left.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2018 - 06:49am PT
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Scrubber - I found one of your older pics that shows the bolt.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2018 - 03:40pm PT
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Two YC hangers from the Sentinel
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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my only bolt stories all are about happy meetings with 1/4" spinners, but I had a pal who was on Squamish and putting up Uncle Bens- named after the cheap brand of beer, and then flattening the cans and hammering the belay bolts through the cans
edit: Just saw your great museum photos--I remember clipping those Harding bolts on the WFLT--I was so happy they were there!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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The squared off end of the pound-in hanger is slightly larger than the 1/4" rod stock that the the thing id formed from. This allows a compression (interference) fit into the hole. It seems to be made from the same material as euro soft-iron pins. No idea on maker.
I had never seen one on a route until actually noticing that there are three of them right here in Squamish on a route called Tantalus Wall.
K
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