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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 25, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
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Yo Scott, post some pics of your and Coston's FA in wild granite. That selfish bastard won't share!
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Mar 26, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
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Good looking rock bob.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 26, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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Well, Bob, John and I had a little unfinished business to tidy up on Dreamliner. The result was a 500' route, the equal of any in this accessible yet remote range. Pitch one 160' 5.9. Pitch 2 190' 5.9. Pitch 3 150' 5.7 to the top. An intricate fourth class decent followed. Considering the long, steep approach, the length and continuity of climbing, and the difficult decent it makes for a hard grade three day, for geezers anyway.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 26, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
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Starting the decent from Dreamliner which is pictured and described in the previous post above. Another incredible day of climbing explorations in the Nevada wilds.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 06:18am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 27, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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Great Tad. Looking forward to your visit and tying in with you for a few moderate, well protected, classics at our amazing high desert discoveries.
As for this weekend; there is s glaring gap right up the center of the Sphinx, as depicted by Jonnyrig's excellent route course picture. Perhaps its time for an exploration to fill it?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 27, 2015 - 11:10am PT
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This area looks really great!! Wish I lived closer. Love putting up routes especially crack routes or which it looks like you have plenty. Mike
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 28, 2015 - 08:47am PT
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Glad you like it Mike. If you're ever out this way you should detour our way to sample this fine high desert granite and perhaps put up a crack line or two yourself.
Tomorrow Bob and I are off in his newly repaired 4x4 rockcrawler to try to get within relatively easy approach distance to what appears to have an abundance of larger formations (300 to 450 feet) at what I call the Temple of Luxor.
This area is shaping up to be a major climbing resource with dozens of walls, butresses, pinnacles, etc up to 6-7 pitches for the largest formations.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 28, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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Rick starting the 2nd pitch of Dreamliner.
A 5.9 move or two to get established in
the crack proper. Up higher more 5.9
awaits. Quality Granite with the odd dike
here and there. Three fixed pins (knife blades)
in the crack and 1 fixed pin at the belay.
Use a 70 meter rope.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 29, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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Bob's 4x4 handled the entire length of the Egyptian Ridge with ease and in fact there was only two twenty foot sections of the entire six mile length that required a short wheelbase high clearance 4x4. All long approaches are now eliminated. We saw vast acreage of high density boulders, clifflets, and single pitch crags as well as figuring out the departure points of various crags listed below. To those who aren't familiar with the area the following will mean little.
Mile 0 (the summit of the 2wheel drive pass road)
Mile .5 the Sphinx, Obelisk and various other clifflets and bouldering parking .
Mile .7 the first twenty foot section of boulder strewn road.
Mile .8 a good flowing spring ( bring your purifier)
Mile 1.1 a summit and departure point for the Crack wall and other pinnacles in its vicinity as well as three darker colored diorite laden butresses on the west face of the escarpment. Park here and walk uphill west, gaining a couple hundred feet to a saddle on the ridge. At this point the Crack wall is downhill to the north a quarter mile. If one continues northwest, sidehilling one reaches the two pitch northern buttress after a half mile. If one goes west down a ravine the middle butress is reached after a quarter mile. If one goes southwest and over another ridge the southern buttress is reached.
Mile 2.5 after going down a short steep hill a flowing spring and ranchers cattle gate is reached. Always close ranchers gates behind you. Turn left and continue after the gate.
Mile 3.0 closest approach to Twin Crags ( within 150 yards) which have several good one pitch crack climbs, many shorter cracks and faces as well as large boulders with overhanging cracks.
Mile 4.7 Turn west on a secondary road track and travel uphill .6 miles to a pass very near Luxors northern shoulder. Walk west a few hundred yards, gaining only a 100 feet or so in elevation, to Luxor's northern shoulder. Go over the shoulder northwest to a steep gully going down between the first two northernmost cliff formations. The bulk of the climbing is to the south from the gully's bottom on butresses and walls up to three pitches. The cliff front extends a half mile to the south and contains many quality single pitch crack climbs as well as the larger formations.
Mile 5.7 where the plethora of clifflets and boulders finally become sparse. The road continues down and west from here for another six miles to the highway 2500' below.
Consider this description a sort of first ascent self help guide. There are literally hundreds of routes to be done.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
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I'd ask about the mileages from which pavement to the "2wd summit road," but really, no one needs to have that sh#t published here.
Cheers again for getting after it!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 30, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
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My short approach compared toYOUR SHORT APPROACH??] man what a wall [Can you see the Quality in My find?? ] It is all in the eye of the beholderIf this is all you have*This is still iced under the leaves These are much better conditions, than when the bugz that are sure to come.take over, in late June.
EDIT : 4/2/15,
Today I was back and played End Games (a working name), No hint of passage but five neatly stacked rocks at the base,
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 31, 2015 - 06:19am PT
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I know right !!
I am the only one that can see these??
The last pic shows the 'short approach' potential! !(and the proximity of dense population)
The 1st pics of the cave and traverse need to be cleaned . . aggressively mmm
To within an inch of placing boltzz !
(Many would be needed to protect from ground fall). . Joke !! ..Ha HA chocking sounds,
After cleaning the dyno to the 'leaves' seems fun, static will be more fun, and all on top rope.
until some kid wants it ,
. The Slope is un-forgiving.Hard for a spotter to stand any where near the fall line of the climber .
A down Hill stance as much to provide first aid as to stop the tumble, before it turns into a cart-wheeling rag doll fall into the shifting tray sized talus ,
what ? NO Takers?
Fun routes some Wide and leaning some old aid to free and re aid as a good A3!!
Top rope is a weird slingshot carnival ride and hard on gear.
The slope is still way to frozen for my #1 belayer to join me.
This is Reason #2 not to rush a good season on snott slick hillsides. This is just one of five or six chossy piles that need work.
So I found chalk at one of my spots!!??? and the wife thinks it's mine from the location, The Gnome above the rt 84 Waterbury exchange, Ext 7/11 Stew's ViewCAR WASH CORNER, zone.
but I am holding out for a girl who can send v10!
I did not see any of my tell tale rock stacks .
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 06:20am PT
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Ron, make a little time and head out with us. Admittedly, our approaches have a little more sage than the Gnome's.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:47am PT
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Ron - it would be living history if you could get out there
with us - not to mention a blast!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Tad
Sorry to hear the sad news.
We were looking forward to your
visit.
The rocks & us are always here!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Another view of side buttress of Luxor
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Sorry to hear that Tad. I was looking forward to your visit and tying in with a fellow oldster, but family first makes for a balanced life. Perhaps next fall when it cools down again?
Bob, im starting to get a little bored with frequenting the same mountain range over and over again. Maybe its time to move a few ranges over and climb a few long anticipated projects. Are you, or any others viewing this thread, game for this coming weekend?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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This is elsewhere. Heading back in a few weeks for more.
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