Welcome to Kevin Worrall

Sep 14, 2006 - 11:46am PT
Yay, Kevin. . . I always wondered if you ever got your Martin! Good for you! That must mean you're still playin'!
YAY!
Here's Katrianna. . . Blanchard #1. . . built for me as a mind boggling, life changing surprize Christmas present many, many years
ago! She's what started this whole thing!
She's a far cry from that old "cheap plywood topped Japanese nylon stringed guitar" (that's what Blanchard always called it!) I had
back in the dirt. You can acutally TUNE Katrianna!
:-)
MAN. . . I would love for you to play some of Mark's stuff! Come to Montana!
Keep the MAGIC alive!
Kath

Jeeze, Kath, with all this talk about guitars what will come next: politics, conspiracy theories, pets, climbing ethics...?
Buzz
And what's wrong with plywood, other than it sounds dead? I had to keep my concert guitar at my parents home the whole time I
climbed. It didn't like the great outdoors.

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
YoBuzz! (that's killin' me, by the way!)
Didn't know you had a concert geetar! Dang! And. . . the only way my old classical made it in the great outdoors was that "Cheap
Plywood Top!"
Thud!
eKatNoPoliticinOrEthicsJiveForMe

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
I had a beater that I played in Camp 4. But I totaled a car I owned, collected the insurance, and purchased a fine, spruce topped
guitar made by Mario Martello in about 1967, from the guitar shop in Berkeley. I think Mr. Martello lived in the Bay Area at the
time.
You can hear that guitar all the way to the last row with a nice open sound I like for modern classical, with its precise overtone
structures. You had to play carefully though, any sound you made--intentional or otherwise--was projected to the back of the hall.
I still have the guitar. It suffered a non-threatening crack in the rosewood back somewhere along the way. However, the string
length is very long--close to 670mm and it is a bear to play--the fingers on my left hand are still a 1/4 inch longer than on my
right. I have considered getting a 650mm with a mellower more forgiving sound.
Hard to climb hard and maintain guitar fingers.
Buzz

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
Buzz. . . you are CORRECT about climbing hard and playing the guitar well. . . they really don't go hand in hand, as it were. Good,
especially classical, technique calls for loose and kind of floppy hands, while climbing calls for crimped, strong, stiff hands.
But . . . anybody can rip at both if they're willing to let the fine details get lost in the shuffle!
:-)
Keep THAT magic alive!
Twang!

Sep 15, 2006 - 12:23am PT
Kathy I remember playing that guitar in your van! I still have the early 60's yamaha classical I learned to play on and had in the
Valley. A childhood friend of mine became a guitar builder and I watched over his shoulder as he built a steel string for me, I cut
and sanded the abalone for the fret markers myself. It's a great guitar- redwood top, birdseye maple sides and back, cutaway, and
we worked together on the neck and fretboard to make it fit my hand just right. Really broad tonal range, solid bass, mellow highs
and good volume. Makes my Martin look bad. Reading your post prompted me to pick it up for the first time in a while. Thanks!
Roger I got your Email and those photos were great to see! The photo of us on Freewheelin' - I didn't even recognize myself, my
wife had to convince me it was my nose and then I came around. That's what they're for I guess (wives) - to help you see
yourself.... sounds like your guitar playing has gotten serious - I remember you as an intellectual among heathens! I'll contact you
soon! (Keep those daughters away from climber types!).

Sep 15, 2006 - 12:27am PT
Remember jamming in the old wooden Camp4 bathrooms, Kevin.
The acoustics were awesome .......

Sep 15, 2006 - 01:02am PT
Werner- the acoustics were awesome, they were squeaky clean in the wintertime, and they had those big heaters in there.Ahhh the
good life! How about when Bridwell got Dale to tunnel through that little culvert with an electrical cord, buried it all the way to the
bathroom, hid it in the siding and poached electricity for the season! Big old reel to reel tapedeck, 3 way tablelamp, who knows
what else. Classic!

Sep 15, 2006 - 01:08am PT
What electrical cord, do you remember any electrical cord going to the site? Nah!
Hahahahaha .............

Sep 15, 2006 - 01:16am PT
I might be mistaken, but how else to explain the constant buzz from bridwell's tent?

Sep 15, 2006 - 01:44am PT
Hey Kevin, while you and Mike are around, I've wondered about this for years. When I first led the crux pitch of Space Babble, the
belay at the top was a 1/4" bolt backed up by a No. 2 stopper with MG on it. Was Mike involved in putting that route together? My
recollection was that it was you and Ron.
Greetings,
Steve

Sep 15, 2006 - 02:22am PT
Hi Steve, it's been a while - Mike was not part of our effort, but maybe his gear was, assuming yours was an early ascent and no
one else left it. I hope doing the route didn't cause you to quit freeclimbing. hahaha!
Kevin

Sep 15, 2006 - 02:37am PT
Hey Kevin, I did the third ascent leading all the pitches without chalk. It's still my favorite Valley free climb. I have an Ansel Adams
photo of that part of Middle hanging where I see it everyday. Thanks for putting up such a masterpiece and encouraging me to get
out on that wild piece of rock.

Sep 15, 2006 - 10:11am PT
Kevin. . . I have such fond, clear memories of making crazy music with you and Chappy! Do you remember all the funny climbing
words we used to make up for songs of the day? Remember how BEAUTIFUL Bridwell's voice was when he'd sing "Please Come to
Boston" with me when he didn't think anybody was listening? He was so self concious about it. . . not like you. . MAN. . . I always
loved your style! You were always willing to let it all hang out. . . I'm there, RIGHT NOW! And. . . cruisin' around in my bus with
Sue Crawford the three of us singin' Joni Mitchell songs with Bridwell gazin' out the window in a trance!
THOSE WERE THE DAYS, DooHood!
One time Werner told me he had Joni Mitchell songs in his head when he was climbing. . . but they were in MY voice. . . ahhhhhh.
Just the thought makes me miss you all so much!
I wonder how many nights I sang Dale to sleep without even knowing he was up in his tent?
HellDamn. . . I better change the subject or else I'll fire up the way back machine so bad these kids won't know what hit 'em!
:-)
SO . . . how very cool that you had a hand in building a guitar with your friend. Who is he? Does he still build?
RIGHT ON!
AND. . . are you surfin'?
I've got a serious Jones to take a Cold Salt tour out of Sitka, Alaska. Perfect point break with Mt. Edgecumbe in the background.
Whoa. . . think I gotta go there!
Keep THAT magic alive!
Twang!
Kath

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
I have more pictures of you climbing, Kevin. I think that 1973 or so was the year that I scraped up enough cash to buy that little
Rollie 35. I recorded Jim Pettigrew doing the entire first ascent of "Catchy" in which you can just make out a white shirt in various
positions, moving up the rock. I was such a terrible photographer. (Still glad I have some of the those all shots, with our long hair,
EBs, swamis, and nuts only racks.)
I have pictures of you leading "Ugly Duckling" on Swan Slab with my hand covering half the view to keep the sun off the lens. The
sun would have been better. So would have a SLR camera.
That day that you and George were getting up the first pitch of "Ugly Duckling" I was walking by and just assumed that it was my
turn next. I remember two things: the giant flapper I cut into my finger on the razor sharp, sloping hold just a few moves up, and
the sense that it was your climb and you didn't want any help for anyone else, especially someone as 'old' as me--I was probably
24.
First time as a climber that I felt the passage of time and place.
Great times.
I will dig up more picture so you to show to your bride. You were the longest limbed, baby face in the Valley.
Best, Roger

Sep 15, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
Steve that’s funny. I did do Space Babble with Ron after he and Kevin did it. Great first pitch huh!

Sep 15, 2006 - 03:33pm PT
Indeed, indeed... To one of the Stonemasters who befriended me, Kevin you are a most welcome addition to the SuperTaco world,
a most welcome addition.
I hope all is well with you dude.
Thanks Roger for pointing it out as I never saw that thread.
I have all the time in the world for Kevin. All the time.

Sep 15, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
Roger - belated apologies for nudging you into adulthood at the base of Swan Slab.... I guess that what kids are for!
Steve - you're really diggin deep into the memory files, judging by your other threads and your ascent of SB with no chalk, you get
the purist of the decade award 3 times in a row. Even if the rest of us falter occasionally, it's inspiring to be reminded of what's
possible. Space Babble is the only route I've done that I would consider adding bolts to or condone adding bolts to simply because,
as you mentioned, the climbing is epic and so central, but rarely enjoyed by anyone as far as I know. I know you would argue that
the sparse protection only makes the route better, and I hear you, but it is kind of a shame so few people taste that part of Middle.
How 'bout adding bolts, but enforcing a special no chalk rule?
Kathy - speaking of singing, the name I post under was given to me by Mark Klemens, a guitarist with the blues down deep in his
soul. He would never sing and used to make fun of me every time I did!
Patrick- help me out, I can't place you. I've read your posts and we see eye to eye often, but I'm not getting a face along with it.

Sep 15, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
Don't feel bad, Kevin, Klemens made fun of EVERYBODY!
:-)
Kath

I did find a copy of Ray's thread with all of Kevin's posts intact!

For all you ruffians, paste this whole string into your browser, rather than attempting a click through:

Sep 15, 2006 - 09:05pm PT
Hey there Kevin! What brings you to this neighborhood?
Just thought I would say hi. Sorry I missed you and everyone at Georges party a couple of weeks ago. I am currently building a
climbing gym in Phoenix, and wasn't able to make it.
I hope you are enjoying being a daddy.
Best Regards
Tommy T

Sep 15, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
Kevin,
That route is so good that I wouldn't worry about doing too much more that making sure the original number of protection points
still remain. Those fixed pins on the first pitch would be my main concern because I don't think any other gear would be as solid or
at least seem as solid. Whether to switch to bolts or somehow cement in beefy pins to preserve the original flavor is the dilemma.
Space Babble is the crown jewel of Middle Rock and a true masterpiece. Little is visible from below in all of the rippling smoothness
and just enough shows up to keep you from stalling. You just have to narrow your focus, forget about the fall, and flow upwards.
Even when it showed up, I stopped putting in pro after a while because it broke the spell of pure movement. No other line on
Middle requires the same kind of groove.
I remember doing Black Primo with you be fore getting up on SB and feeding on your enthusiasm. I also remember the chirp of
disbelief that came out of Ron Kauk who was doing the traverse below when you yelled down that I wasn't carrying a chalk bag. It
made my day since his recollection of the route, being not so tall, was surely one of desperation. Reach is a real help on those
routes.
I also remember failing on the crux of Jigsaw in part because of the foil-thin Clevenger hanger (with nothing else anywhere nearby)
got into my head.
I talked to Scott Burke about rebolting on Middle. It sounded like the routes were slowly getting equipped with stainless bolts by
him and a few other hardcore face freaks. Don't sacrifice wildness for access or popularity, these lines are unique and should be
preserved as the gems that they are. Plenty of bolts elsewhere.
Fond memories all, Steve

Sep 15, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
Sorry for off-topic, but hey Blinny, didn't you and and I go through the PSIA exam together in Tahoe backin 87-88? Peter Mayfield
was our examiner. We met at Millpond in 97 or 98 and you said Norman Blake came by and tried out one of Marks guitars. Tony
rice was there also. Are you she???????
Walleye
Walter Flint
Yosemite, CA

Hi, Kevin. Long time!
Here’s a shot of you ice climbing. Even when the ice was good, winter in Camp 4 was a grim existence, despite the luxurious
heated bathrooms.

One memory of your musical talents sticks out. One night I walked up to a campfire where you were strumming the guitar. You
greeted me with a jovial, “Rock-omazzo!”
I see a light bulb go on as inspiration strik es, and then you start singing, accompanying yourself on the guitar:
“Rock-a-ma-zoe in the bosom of Abraham…”
Thirty years later, whenever I hear the tune of that old spiritual, these are the lyrics that come to mind.
Rick

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:00am PT
Hi Kevin and welcome to Supertopo.
It has been quite some time.
Got any pics of your old brown mini truck with the home made color coordinated shell?
'Twas a very distinctive set up for the times.
All those Middle Apron routes are so creative and stimulating; the other side of your contribution which I've much appreciated are
the offbeat yet distinguished multi pitch crack line gems which you and Chapman pioneered for us, often my favorite tours, things
like Windfall, Beggar's Buttress, Joker/Thief and the like.
('Never sampled The Warbler (not your route but your namesake? I forget the story) or Ramblin' Rose).
I still see Teri Martin once in a blue moon and more so her daughter Lisa, who lives out her in Boulder with her husband John
Christie and kids.
Cheers,
Roy McClenahan

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:39am PT
Great ice climbing pic. . . . dang. . . reminds me of a time back in the day when Kevin was up doing something transient (like
Widow's Tears? Staircase Falls? . . . .help me out here, Kev!) and he came back to the dorms ten kinds of weirded out. . . with his
ice ax in 2 pieces - the adze/pick had separated from the shaft. . . just shortly AFTER doing one of those GNARLY, temporary frozen
dreams! (that WAS you, wasn't it? or was it Chappy?)
FREAKED ME OUT back then. . . . freaks me out, today!
HohMahn!
OldDadBrockman

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:44am PT
Kevin, I usually climbed with Claude Fiddler, Jim Keating, David Yerian, Hank Ward, Bob Jones (some) but also some with Ed Barry,
Dave Hitchcock, Lew Dawson, Rich Jack, couple of times with Charlie Porter.
Unfortunately I partied too much and didn’t get enough climbing in when I hung out in the Valley off and on from 1975 to 1977.
I never climbed a route with you (I don’t think) but use to boulder with you and partied some.
I’m 50, 5’6” and I use to be blonde, from the Bay Area and I had an old 1948 Ford pickup with a home-made wood camper and the
truck was ‘psychedelic’ color as when I was sanding the body down to repaint all the old paints came through (the truck must have
been painted five or six times in its life) so I just shellacked it over. Always got stopped crossing the Central Valley going from the
Valley to Walnut Creek/Lafayette. The truck was a magnet for CHP, deputy sheriffs and city police (Manteca, Oakdale, etc).
I only have a few pix of me climbing (never took a camera along climbing) so I’ll try and dig them up to see if you recognise who I
am. I have an box in the closet with some old photos as well as some undeveloped film that I hope to develop and see if they are
any good, perhaps there is one of the truck. I’d think though that after 20-30 years the film may not be any good.

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:44am PT
Hey Ricky - haven't seen you since that camp 4 / historic register thing I think. Where the hell is that ice shot taken - I've iced
climbed so few times, I'm suprised I can't place it. Actually, I know I never hangdogged on ice so I'm suspecting you're one of
them photoshop guys.
Tommy T - when are you gonna get your priorities right and go craggin here in SD with the boyz again?
Roy - thanks to you for all the photos, if I figure out this scanner we just got, I might bust out a picture of the chuck wagon. If you
think those routes are off beat, you should see the last 20 years worth!
Russ - those videos are hilarious! I was beginning to miss Josh til I I saw that flapper.
Patrick - say no more, I totally remember you and that truck! I still tell people about it, particularly if they're painting an old
vehicle. Nothing like a little non-conformity to attract the Man.

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:53am PT
Kevin,
Yeah, the decades are rolling by.
That's one of the smears below the trail to Half Dome. I think we were just top roping...pretty thin ice. I rememember Charlie
Porter was there that day, but I don't remember who else.
Rick

Sep 13, 2006 - 10:38pm PT
swami belt. small backpacker's stuff sack as a chalk bag. huge loop of slack in the rope. crisp, new e.b.'s. spring updraft lifting
breezes up the face.
when my wife and i finally sacked up to do quicksilver, i'd had this photo stuck in my head for seven years. one of the more classic
valley images ever, in my not-so-very-humble opinion.
welcome, indeed. if we see so far, it is because we stand on the shoulders of giants.

^^^ Some wag might say ol' Kevie looks like a girl. heh

The photo of us on Freewheelin' - I didn't even recognize myself, my
wife had to convince me it was my nose and then I came around.

Sep 16, 2006 - 12:42pm PT
Here Patrick,
A few very recent photos of your old buddys and a few others to boot.
Kevin, I'm sure you remember all of these folks well.

Sep 16, 2006 - 12:54pm PT
Dang, TarBaby, you've done it again!
Look at that darling LittleHerringBone!
And the Bircheffs look the same. . . MY GOD! And Carter and Hitchcock. . . UNREAL!
Watch out, kids. . . somebody's revvin' up TheWayBackMachine!
eKat

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
Wow Tarbuster, thanks for the pix, when were they taken?
Haven't seen Jimbo since...?

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:19pm PT
WHOA. . . good ones!
Everybody looks so cute. . . dang, Cashner's still got all that BIG HAIR!
Oakeshott is SO DARLING!
One day, no less than 10 years ago, I was skating up to Lake Mary (at Tamarack Lodge) and workin' like a slave to make it up
without stopping and hackin' my lungs out (took me THIRTY DAYS to be able to ski/skate that road without a break!) and I was
strokin' to make it happen this one day and I could hear somebody behind me yelling:
"Dennis!"
"DENNIS!""*DENNIS*"
And, since my name isn't Dennis, I just kept strokin' . . . until I got to the Lake Mary overlook and some guy skied up and as he
approached, said "DENNIS, damn it!"
This dad thought I was Dennis Oakeshott!
IT TOTALLY CRACKED ME UP!
I had my hair in the EXACT Oakeshott ponytail. . .
So. . . everytime I see Oakeshott now, I quietly bellow:
"DENNIS!"
He cracked up when he heard the story!
:-)
eKat

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:30pm PT
Speakin' of BIG HAIR. . . Those Clevenger dads have the tresses! And Bab (that would be theFinnMaster) is the BEST! Good to see
some pix of Ellie, too!
eKat_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
And. . . I should say. . . that littleChickieMan sure looks darling in that shot with Cashner. . . and Carter. . . well. . . it's good to see
he's still air climbin'! Dang.. . recently somebody mentioned climbers not being much into dancing . . . well. . . I can remember
going down to Cedar Lodge (back when it was downhome and mellow) and we would watch the MonkeyBoys air climb and hangin'
from anything they could reach - but not one of them would DANCE with us. It wasn't til that LittleBachStar moved to Mammoth
that he'd cut a rug. . . and he always wore FANCY shoes when he did. I mean. . . we were all at a "Pretty In Pink" party at
Schneider's on time and that LittleBachStar actually asked me to dance. . . IT CRACKED ME UP. . . he went from a total WallFlower
(pun intended, I guess) to havin' the hot footwork of a classically trained Broadway dancer!
We tripped the light fantastic!
I was hopin' it would nudge Blanchard (that would be the REAL Blinny) into stompin' a bit, but. . . to no avail. . . the man refuses
to dance standin' up!
:-)
eKat

Sep 16, 2006 - 07:08pm PT
Ok,
To straighten out the collateral way back to the future snapshot tread drift,
Here's a photo of The Warbler (Kevin) I ripped from, er, borrowed from Falkenstein and I think Tom Carter may have taken it:
Who are them other longhairs?
This is before my time I think...

Sep 16, 2006 - 07:16pm PT
HolyFrickinMcGuillicutty! Remember when we all had those blue Adidas marathon trainers?
HILARIOUS!
Now. . . I know those other dads. . . but I can't, FOR THE LIFE OF ME, remember their names! (a rare occurance, mind you!)
And. . . what's with the Lefty classical?
Whoa?
OldDadBrockWoman
P.S. DANG. . . this is a perfect example of the "Tip of the tongue syndrome!". . . who are those dads?
AND. . . Kevin. . . you are SO darling! (I shoulda told you that back in the day, back in the dirt. . . but I was too embarassed!
Notice I didn't say shy?)

Sep 16, 2006 - 08:58pm PT
'Cud that one dude on the right side be Klonica?(sp)
(One ah them ruff'n tumble too high boyz)

Sep 16, 2006 - 09:12pm PT
Craig Calonica? The speed skier?
Whoa. . .
I don't think so. . .
Kevie?
Werner?
HELP!
OldDadBrockWoman

Sep 16, 2006 - 09:19pm PT
Rick Reeder with the guitar and Dave Bircheff in foreground.

Sep 16, 2006 - 09:22pm PT
OF COURSE!
Rick Reider!
Bircheff?
Whoa - I'm slippin'!
K

Sep 16, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
Or maybe Phil Bircheff, one or the other for sure.

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:59pm PT
Hoh man, that's Dave and Rick lookin pretty irie on a misty Valley rest day. Hardly believe there's photos like that out there.
Almost cut ma hair, happened just the other day..... Rick was the best guitarist of the bunch, and a bad ass climber. What ever
happened to the other RR?

Sep 17, 2006 - 01:19am PT
Here's an 80's Kauk, Fish, Kevin, Mittendorf:

Sep 17, 2006 - 11:13am PT
Roy are you sure that is Fish? Looks more like Russsel to me.
Ken

Sep 17, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
Ken, thats Russ, sure as the day is long, note how the two handed pocket-pool set up he's running with the slightly bent wrist flair.
Kevin, is the Pannikan still on your morning rounds?

Sep 17, 2006 - 04:12pm PT
Interestingly, "Warbler" is NOT one of the many nicknames recorded in the thread from a few weeks ago on that subject -
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=240808&msg=242408#msg242408
Anders

Sep 17, 2006 - 07:33pm PT
Mike and Kevin,
Your stories about doing the Graham Traverse en route to a chopfest on the lower Salathe jogged my memory.
Back in 1983, I climbed through that area while putting up The Turning Point. The second pitch ends at the bela y where you guys
began that huge sweeping downward traverse to the left to reach the Salathe.
After rappelling at the end of the day, Yosemite caretaker John Bachar, approa ched to ask if I was aware that I had been on
hallowed ground. I said yes, and told him that I had added a bolt to protect the very last 5.11a sequence to reach the belay. I
watched as his jaw tightened and he pondered his response to the indiscretion. Only after I pre-empted his certain sneer by
informing him that fifty feet of runout 5.10 all the way up the down ramp had left The Graham Traverse, with its enormous
windshield wiper pendulum fall, essentially intact, did he smile. "Just checking," he said as we parted company, just a little closer
for having shared an obscure bit of history that few would know or appreciate.
We old guard carry around a lot of great tales. I thought you guys might appre ciate this one.
Cheers-Steve
The Warbler
climber
the

Sep 18, 2006 - 12:25am PT
Hey Pat - you know me well, I still network at Pannikin. Since I never answer my phone I gotta give people a chance to talk to me
somehow. Not today though - spent the day craggin in the backcountry with George and Beaver. Looks like climbing season to me!
You're right, that's the Fish. That guy on the left looks like Tom Cruise though!
Kevin

Sep 18, 2006 - 12:30am PT
Steve - Are Mike's bolts still there? Or did Royal chop 'em?
Karl Baba
Trad climber

Sep 18, 2006 - 02:41am PT
Kevin wrote:
"Space Babbl e is the only route I've done that I would consider adding bolts to or condone adding bolts to simply because, as you
mentioned, the climbing is epic and so central, but rarely enjoyed by anyone as far as I know. I know you would argue that the
sparse protection only makes the route better, and I hear you, but it is kind of a shame so few people taste that part of Middle.
How 'bout adding bolts, but enforcing a special no chalk rule? "
Quite a few years back, I top-roped Space Babble pitch by pitch while rapping from Kor-Beck. It hadn't had many ascents as
evidenced by the fact that I could rip the faded 1 inch tubular webbing apart with my bare hands. A couple anchors are truly shaky
too.
I couldn't believe the quality of the climbing. Really one of the best routes in the valley. It is a shame that it's never done. At least
replacing the anchors would let folks do it wimpy style like I did.
Peace
Karl

Sep 18, 2006 - 07:35am PT
I am curious, having been out of the Valley scene since the late 1970s, but what is up with doing Space Babble chalkless? I don't
know anything about the route except that is is 5.11a/b and on Middle.

Sep 18, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
Yo, KW--
Tell us the story about you and three others on Mother Earth, and how you battled up to the big ledge after many heroics only to
find that George had mistakenly bought dog food for dinner.
JL

Sep 18, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
Did Royal chop my bolts? I don’t think so but Steve you will be pleased to know, Royal did take my hammer from me.
Hey, had a great weekend with some old Slabmasters, Muir, Hensel, Bolton, Graham (my son Ian) a new route even got
established. Went to fill my chalk bag with this white stuff, turned out to be like Talcum power. Had to do the routes with a
handicap.
Cheers

Sep 18, 2006 - 02:38pm PT
Rik (I think he spelled it without the c) Reider, another very nice guy who had time for me. I remember when he got injured on (I
think) the PO Wall when Bridwell and some of you guys were putting it up. Something about a flake and an awful head injury. I
think Bachar was up there with him and had to lower him off, but my memory may not be serving me well.
Hell of a nice guy and damn good climber.

Sep 18, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
Patrick - only one person has done, and probably ever will do SB without chalk. Maybe you didn't read Steve Grossman's earlier
post.
Karl Baba - The fixed pins Ron and I left on the first pitch were later removed, and they were the only protection option for us at
the time. They and a stopper or two protected climbing to the first bolt some fifty feet off the deck. If modern passive pro can't
safely replace the pins, bolts may be in order if RK concurs. I would rather see stainless bolts on it than more pins that need
testing by hammer, but only in the same location as the pins were. I remember the pins(3?) being driven under roofs and in a
leaning corner, and that their failure would ruin your wilderness experience. Same goes for all the protection and belay pins we
used. I only remember 3 or 4 protection pins on the next 6 pitches. By the way, I like your photo and written perspectives.
Yo Largo - I remember it as if it were yesterday.

Sep 19, 2006 - 12:09am PT
No non-essential pro that I recall on SB. Hee Haa. Middle Rock fixed pins were always pretty psychological anyway. Don't pop,
psychology. It might help explain the lack of ascents if those short arrows are gone.
Mike, nice story about Royal taking your hammer! The Valley never saw such a stern farmer again. If you would like to elaborate
on that classic intergenerational moment, I'm all ears. LOL! I don't remember seeing more that two old rusty Leeper hangers out
left once I pieced your route together while leading on TP. Were you around when Fawcett and Livesey repeated SB and
presumably that photo in Yosemite Climber was taken?
Cheers-Steve

Sep 19, 2006 - 12:57am PT
George Meyers climbed with barely contained excitement - his fingers would flutter on each feature as he chose the exact position
to move from. His gapped tooth grin was ever present on Middle, and his enthusiasm for the mind game played on her burnished
flanks quickly worked it's way into some of us and grew to a passion ordinarily reserved for the fairest of maidens. John Long and I
became two of her most ardent suitors.
General Meyers had found a weakness on the slab laying just right of the massive triangular North Face Apron, and had recruited
one of my earliest climbing partners, Eric Schoen, to help explore the possibilities. As John will remember, we were together at the
base of the Dihardral on Slab Happy Pinnacle when Eric, after sending the crux, uttered the classic "Jams are good, protection's
good, I'm coming down!" All other versions credited to someone else are just that. Eric was the original. His mild manner,
juxtaposed with an uncanny mantling ability and a herculean build, earned him the nickname "Mellow Brutus".
Eric and George boldly pushed upward little by little following the route as it led them. George's vision was a free climb ascending
the entire slab, crossing the old North Face Traverse route, and continuing up the sweeping Northwest Buttress to the highest
topout on the most massive Cathedral. An ambitious project for the era.
I kept track of their progress as I climbed elsewhere, always pinning GM down for details after one of his skirmishes. Then one day
they reached an impass. I don't remember the details, but chances are Mellow Brutus was a little too mellow for the increasing
difficulty. General Meyers needed special forces.
George and Eric had pioneered six pitches of increasing difficulty and angle to a lonely belay seemingly within striking distance of a
deep corner system leading down 200 feet from the North Face Traverse. Steeper climbing had stopped them, but George believed
only a short section remained and that it was doable. I had been hoping for just such an opportunity, and John shared my interest.
My regular climbing partner, Mark Chapman also joined the team.
Our plan was to stock the huge ledge on the North Face Traverse with bivy gear to eliminate hauling on the route below, and to
have a base camp for the upper thousand feet of rock. That done, we spent the night at the base to get a jump on the first half.
We were immediately impressed by the beauty and boldness of the climbing. George's descriptions of the route deliberately hadn't
done it justice, and he reveled in our experience as section after section of perfect stone and variety greeted us. The last pitch they
had done was a continuous barrage of technical moves past bolts placed on stances that were difficult just to clip from. It follows a
magical line up an otherwise unclimbable section of the wall and as such was used by Jay Smith and Paul Crawford to advance their
own route nearly ten years later. It is surely George's best pitch on the rock, and it ends at a small ledge with lower angle rock
only 30 steeper and smoother feet higher. I think George had even placed the first bolt on the next lead but was unable to
continue.
Somehow the lead fell to me. I cinched my EBs, checked my swami, exited my butt bag, and went. Barely made the moves to the
bolt, clipped and started toward the next stance. Thin smeary moves up a small fold in the stone brought me to a meager stance
and I made the best of it. 15 minutes later, as I clipped the new splitshank, my toes were experiencing the kind of pressure that
turns coal to shining gems. I lowered and handed the sharp end to Largo.
John moved on past my bolt and with his characteristic power and finess surmounted the headwall. Having attained the level of the
beginning of the long corner system leading to our plush bivy, John placed a bolt and began the fifty foot traverse. As the three of
us craned our necks fom the belay, we watched him steadily move toward easy ground and the skyline. But Middle is full of
suprises, and John arrived at a sloper ledge surrounded by featureless rock, with the coveted crack system two feet out of reach.
Much hollering ensued and John informed us that it didn't look good, but that he would place a bolt and do what he could. I had
seen Largo blast bolt holes in half the normal time before and I always attributed it to his overall mass and thigh size forearms, but
this hole was placed with the speed of light.John's frame was a silhouette on the skyline, the afternoon sun piercing our eyes.
When he announced he was going for it, we all hopefully squinted into the sun. A cumulus cloud of chalk dust rose on the updrafts, and John pulled slack, but did not reach higher. His bulk disappeared from the skyline instead, and our moment of confusion was his moment of decision. He suddenly reappeared, arms outstretched, not unlike Superman, flying upward. Another chalk cloud appeared as he slapped the target and swung sideways tugging the rope abruptly. After much cheering, the pitch was ours, and the ledge followed.
Meyers botched it and brought a family size can of some kind of artificial meat for our dinner. The serving suggestion on the label
looked good, but it was false advertising. As John said, it might as well have been dog food. It was inexpensive though.
That night we built a big fire with oak branches cleared from our sleeping areas, and cast giant shadows of ourselves up the
massive untouched Northwest Buttress of Middle Rock.

Sep 19, 2006 - 01:11am PT
Kevin,
Instea d of big shiny modern bolt hangers I would happily send you some historical stainless SMC 3/8" hangers. There has never
been a failure on the stainless version. Perhaps the old pin positions could be reused and somehow pinned or reinforced? A drilled
1/2" angle epoxied in would work too since the runouts aren't too ridiculous. Perhaps that is going too far in the name of flavor but
I would be happy to help in the effort to refit SB if you are thinking about it. What am I going to do with all that ironmongery
anyway? Any excuse to visit Yosemite is a great one.
Cheers-Steve

Sep 19, 2006 - 10:27am PT
That's Kevin, Phil & Rik Reider