Rappelling El Capitan

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Chad Taylor

Gym climber

Phoenix

Aug 21, 2012 - 08:05pm PT

I am not asking this as a criticism, but because I really don't know. My question is: Is it a bad idea to tie the ends of your rope together? That way you can't rap off the ends and additionally you can't accidentally pull your rope with the knot still tied.

Hawkeye

climber

State of Mine

Aug 21, 2012 - 08:23pm PT

maybe is just me, but from the perspective of danger/fear/probability of f*#king up.......i would way rather Climb than rappel.

cragman was spot on in his first post and prophetic. sorry chris but this a f*#k up of the first degree.

Srbphoto

climber

Kennewick wa

Aug 21, 2012 - 09:06pm PT

not sure this will help but starting Aug 24th REI is having Petzl Ascension Ascenders on sale for $57.99

this just in

climber

north fork

Aug 21, 2012 - 09:50pm PT

Amazing day for the supertopo, Russ that was groundbreaking. I hope to see more rants on other threads.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Aug 21, 2012 - 09:55pm PT

Mussy! Rant on dude....

Hawkeye

climber

State of Mine

Aug 21, 2012 - 10:08pm PT

i loved the fish rant....only it was way to f*#king productive to be a true rant!

Jon Beck

Trad climber

Oceanside

Aug 21, 2012 - 10:09pm PT

ST needs to add an "Audio Rant" button!

Prod

Trad climber

Aug 21, 2012 - 10:15pm PT

Cragman,

How is this considered encouragement?

Any competent well round climber can do it, rappel the Nose.

Piss easy.

Grossman used to do it for booty hunting.

Yer all wankers for trying to blow this guy off .....

If that is than this could be as well.

Don't do it.

You come to ST and the very first thing you post is about rappelling arguably the best free climb in the world?

Go back to the gym, and practice your rappelling there....YOSAR has enough to do.

Egging him on by calling him a gym climber, stay off the good stuff till you can climb it, don't burden us pros. How about a fresca little fella?

All I see you doing in this thread is claiming that you are a great guy and a Mentor, then apologizing for being a jack ass instead of a mentor, because its been a "rough time", we all have rough times, get over it. Seems to me that you care much more about your cred here than actually helping Noobs.

And what is with the hard on for WB?

My $.02

Prod.

this just in

climber

north fork

Aug 21, 2012 - 10:17pm PT

Prod that would have been so much better under the russrant format.

Roger Brown

climber

Oceano, California

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:20pm PT

Dean,
If you are an example of a Christian, I hope I never have to be one.

BurntToast

climber

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:34pm PT

"I never placed the blame on my partner"

Really?

1. "While I was setting up the quick links my friend started to pull the ropes." (Translate: Richard f-ed up when I wasn't watching).

2. "my friend didn’t have a helmet with him. I guess not everyone uses them but he left his at the car saying it didn’t fit (it was a unisize) and didn’t tell me until we were in the middle of the descent." (translate: Richard bought a helmet that did not fit, then left it in the car.)

3. "Now he had pulled a rope with a knot in the end. It surprised me." (see #1 above)

4. Nothing eventful happened until Richard got stuck (emphasis: RICHARD got stuck)

5. "he thought the bottom set of anchors was the correct set. I understood his logic and really didn’t give it much thought knowing we had a 50/50 chance and that if we messed up we could just come up and use the other anchor (Translate: Richard got the anchors wrong, and he should have been able to ascend after making this critical mistake)

6. "Richard had forgotten the ascenders up with me." (Translate: Richard f-ed up again by forgetting the ascenders)

7. "It was really obvious at this point that he had already given up and I honestly feel he had given up within a minute or two of deciding he was stuck." (Translate: Richard gave up right away. He was just a puss)

8. The rescuer talked to Richard for a while and it was obvious that he was hoping for YOSAR to come grab him. (see #7 above).

9. "I knew Richard knew how to use prussiks but suddenly it was like a new skill to him." (see #s 7 and 8 above)

10. "At first he claimed they were slipping which didn’t make any sense but after some prodding by the rescuer he started to go up." (Translate: Richard was making excuses for why he needed a rescue)

11. "At this point Richard got on the radio and asked very simply “Can you guys just have a helicopter come get me?” I think he had seen the YOSAR article in Maxim
magazine about a chopper rescue on El Cap." (Translate: Richard, in his ignorance, thought a helicopter rescue was relatively trivial and opted for that rather than toughing it out.)

12. "As they got to the top of camp five Chris asked me how I and Richard were doing. I told them Richard was glad they were there and that I was alright." (Translate: Richard needed the rescue, not me, I was fine)

13. "I asked Paul what code 4 meant and he said that meant Richard was fine." (Translate: Richard was fine, he really did not need a rescue.)

14. We got in his car and as he turned the key we heard, “click click click click click click click.” Somehow his battery had died. (Emphasis on HIS car and HIS battery).

Prod

Trad climber

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:39pm PT

OOPs Climb2ski deleted the following post prior to my response.

I have never seen a more spot on accurate post than Deans first reply to the OP.

Dean was absolutely correct.

Bullsh#t. He assumed the OP was a troll, and smugly said stay away. Maybe if he or any of the rest of us were Mentors he or any of the rest of us would have given him some good input, and or asked some relivent questions.

Spot on due to lack of "Mentoring"

Prod.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:42pm PT

Yeah I did delete because I kinda find these comments unproductive even if tempting.. but now that I'm well in it I might as well support it.

The OP said something that pegged my oh sh#t meter right off the bat too. I didn't say anything at the time cause I kinda thought this was a troll to start off with myself.

The climbing partner I am going with isn't ready to attempt climbing The Nose

Dean picked up on that and while his phrasing wasn't the best he pegged the perfect advice.

I did have a running argument with Dean on this when it came to what the legal penalty should be for this and how it should be judged.

I can totally sympathize with Chris 's situation and could easily have seen myself in it.

I don't mind a fine on this but not jail time and not something financially crippling long term.. Such as the full cost of the rescue for example.

But the fact remains that Dean was correct in his initial advice. Amazingly correct actually.

this just in

climber

north fork

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:44pm PT

Perfect advice? F*#k off this is my forum go back to the gym.

Chad Taylor

Gym climber

Phoenix

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:49pm PT

Bump. Inquiring minds want to know.

Alexey

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:58pm PT

I ry to avoid to tie both ends together because there is more chance that rope be stuck in the cracks when you toss it down. It is easier to manage the rope and toss it down when you have two separate ends

crasic

climber

Aug 21, 2012 - 11:59pm PT

Bump. Inquiring minds want to know.

Its very easy to get it stuck and much harder to free.

But someone more experienced should be able to give a better answer

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Aug 22, 2012 - 12:01am PT

This thread is awesome. It's got it all...

High adventure from the OP.
"Compassionate" Christians.
Audio rants™
Wernerisms.
Shack's tongue up the Chief's ass.
Armchair Monday Morning SARterbacking.

But no spambots selling Hottest NIKE VERSACE GUESS jean for u good best price, though. Give it time I suppose.