Look Out! Danger!... Or... "Look Out! Weak Sauce."

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un de tants

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
aqui ya quedaron claras tus intenciones de lo que ivas hacer,aun no havias ni empezado la ruta y ya estavas taladrando,almenos podias haver atado la cuerda a un arbol e intentar subir sin taladrar,y luego dios dira,pero no,tu nunca as creido en la ruta i as ido directamente a destruirla,porque tu eres el salvador de las torres,ahora entiendo los agujeros de intifada,seguro que los hiciste tu,,ves que facil es acusar sin tener pruevas??pues espera que aun tengo mas fotos..
un de tants

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
uy,perdon por no poder escribir en ingles pero es lo que tiene la incultura,pero a vosotros tampoco os sirve de nada hablar ingles porque veo que no me entendeis,no digo cojoneeess,,que sea inculto no quiere decir que sea mal educado,respetoo sobre todo respeto,tienes que entender que a mi tambien me a gustado esto de poner fotitos,esta chulo..perdon e coleguita si te e molestado,que no se altere nadie que aun no e terminado,despues ya os dejare enpaz para que os podais masturbar y haceros pajas mentales entre vosotros tranquis que ya casi termino..
un de tants

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
un de tants

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Sep 24, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 24, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
i concur with the chief
your balls are underinflated.
rocket scientist

Trad climber
Logan, UT
Sep 24, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
Esta no es la escalada, esto es una vergüenza de mierda!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 24, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
Your eyes are better than mine, I got to about 20 pieces and stopped counting. My initial impression was "I don't think I even own that many draws or biners"

EDIT: Holy smokes, I enlarged it and there are AT LEAST 28. That chick holding rope must be bored out of her mind.
un de tants

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
ey jeremy,no podia abandonar el foro sin antes decirte unas cuantas cosas.primero felicitarte por vuestra via realmente es muy bonita y disfrute mucho,todo mi respeto y admiracion hacia vosotros,pero creo que estas haciendo muy mal de juzgar a las personas sin conocerlas,por eso creo que tendrias que ir a repetir hot-parad ice y asi despues poder opinar con criterio propio y no por cosas que an visto otros ojos que no an sido los tuyos,es solo una opinion,me gustaria mucho que la repitieras y la graduaras y le pongas lo que tu creas conveniente,solo decirte que no se puede ser tan negativo,yo no tengo nada en contra de nadie,es mas no me gusta para nada la discusion ni el politiqueo,pero claro esta que richar se a pasado un poco tirando a mucho,contando muchas mentiras e inventandose su propia historia tu realmente despues de ver las fotos de los falques crees que llevavamos una sierra para cortarlas maderas??? porfavor,solo desde mi humilde posicion te puedo invitar a venir a escalar a nuestro pais,aqui no te faltara de nada,y asi podemos intercanviar cultura artificiera,asi que sin faltarte al respeto ni mucho menos cuidaros mucho y disfrutar la vida que esto de internet es para volverse locos,ahora entiendo muchas cosas,si necesitas qualquier cosa richi tiene mi mail,suerte
madboIter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
Keep posting, David! More and more pics! You are making my case for me.

Biggest botch job in climbing history. And YES, I drilled all over your route. I did indeed, just as I have explained. I took your HOLE ladder and made it HONEST. And in the process I did it with FAR fewer holes and standing on many, many small placements that you never even saw.

Oh, and ALL the trenched heads on the first pitch were yours. I simply left the heads in place because the rock cannot sustain the trench-place-remove-retrench cycle. If you understood desert rock at all, you would know this.

But keep posting, because every video clip and pic you post just further demonstrates what you really did. Keep it coming!

Edit: I see in your last post you actually have the temerity to call me a liar. What a joke. Your own pictures demonstrate that I've told the truth about what a travesty you put up! Do you STILL claim A6+? Do you STILL claim "hardest aid route in the world?"
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Sep 24, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
I'll bet the Internet Spanish-English translators are a-buzzin' today!

masturbar y haceros pajas mentales

Man, that's some funny shiz.
madboIter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
WBW... I actually tried a couple of tri-cams there. Pinkie was okay. I certainly would have stood on it. But the roller was better. It's tragic that nobody makes these anymore. I like 'em better than ball-nuts.

Chief, I stand corrected! :-)

David, wow... how long did it take you to find that one bottle? I thought we cleaned up pretty good, but you caught me! I am shamed. Of course, by definition you would not have known about the half-a-garbage-bag full of your dropped slings, bottles (found in that run-off area under the overhang), and dropped gear we "recovered" after your ascent. It's hard to find everything when you're cleaning up, that's for sure. But, you got me!
madboIter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
To me the overarching point is that none of us is "perfectly pure" in any sense. But CLIMBERS are trying to conform to what the rock presents, and the tactics employed must demonstrate that. There are HUGE "gray areas" within the tactical game, evidenced by the long "ethical" discussions we have on the Taco. Some here would even advocate that ALL aid climbing must be "clean or nothing" (I, of course, disagree).

However, debating within the "gray areas" does NOT signify that there are NO clear-cut cases. Debating within the "gray areas" still constitutes debating about CLIMBING tactics.

What the FA team did on this route, however, was not even CLIMBING, and there was nothing "gray" about their tactics. Just because there is SOME "gray" in climbing ethics does not mean that this FA was "gray!"
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 24, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
This could only be the work of Juan de Fuca. We've been owned.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Sep 24, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
what in the hell is going on here?


can somebody do a summary version.


There was an ascent of a new route? It was purported to be extremely difficult. More difficult than Intifada?

Richard did a subsequent ascent of this new route. His ascent was going to be a repeat, but instead there were so many bashies in drilled holes and non-reusable wooden dowels in drilled holes that 1) the route didn't seem to be that difficult, and 2) he elected to find the most minimal path up over the line showing, by example and photos what was happening up there. Not doing what he did would have probably subjected him to accusations of 'retreat' in the face of difficulty.

un de tant seems to be the FA author of this new route? But online translators do a terrible job getting the context right of his posts in Spanish.

Accordingly, I may have all this completely wrong. But am I getting close?



I'm assuming it's ok to comment on the laundry here since it's all hanging in the breeze.

As a bit of a choss-liker (not licker), this seems to have some import into what the style could be on desert or choss routes.

Pounding gear and drilling is done by most climbers, we're just settling on price, yes?

thanks in advance,
Munge




TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Sep 24, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
Sloppy seconds.

Don't forget the part about getting sloppy seconds. And the implications of actually doing the sloppy seconds.

It's just plain gross.
madboIter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
Pretty much nailed it, Munge. LOL... sloppy seconds ARE gross!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Sep 24, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Hey David.

This is what we get from the translators....

starting debut, I go with anchors, ...

Hey people, look at you too these pics, are cool ...

carai carai that the highest ethical good Richi, leave everything set and drill to put coopers, interesting .. so long now that the first repetition after ...

long after passing first richi, who drilled to put cooper heads and leave??

Mr. pordonde look for truth, El Salvador towers forget to take your trash ... there are sooo bad .. bad richi must preserve the planet

u look richi,, uuu care ghosts woods,, missing the cut saw,, walk to cool eee??

to, look where you, a meeting without plates, see that you have little richi view, You made several feet arrives with a chain and three bolts mu very long, of course I understand you did not like this meeting was a bit awkward and yuyu dava some sub

Your miar where another meeting as a very bad, to my great, aaa clear that no bolts, is this also true of you jumped ..

richi look .. this is called Falque to cool?

watching another outfit, this if you can not trust ee, does not need any bolt next ...

look look .. trenches wing handsome, not cool estava I thought that, and now they are trenches, barricades next richiii yujuuu that funny, brutal

Falque peazooo kid, long out of the Hilton, you saw it or you also got yourself a bolt?

ups, sorry if I put two rups, but was afraid esque richi .. sorry, I hope your not to put two bolts ... one you bastava

this material sounds you richi? remember that I said that things had yours? whether if this is the material you use to upload your ... the longer the bolt floor via

first step of the way and now you're afraid richi?? there's age.

here because your intentions were clear what ive done, even havias not even started and already the route estavas drilling, at least you could haver rope tied to a tree and try to climb without drilling, and then God will say, but not, as you never i believed in the route as gone directly to destroy it, because you are the towers of El Salvador, now I understand intifada holes, you made sure your,, see how easy it is to accuse without evidence;?? because I have expected even more photos ....

I was afraid my ...

Oops, sorry for not being able to write in English but is it about ignorance, but you will not speak English is useless because I do not understand me, do not say cojoneeess, that is uneducated not mean it rude, respetoo ​​about respect, you have to understand that I too would have liked to put this pics, this cool buddy .. sorry and upset if you and that no one is disturbed and not yet finished, and after that I will leave enpaz podais will make you masturbate and mental straws among you tranquis that I'm almost done ..

You might not like this picture richi, but I decided to upload so, and you do not and you dared not even respetaste, and I if I see a linia here ...

well I'm almost done I'm already tired of such nonsense, just looking at this picture of the work of Richard I think words are unnecessary

Hey Jeremy, I could not leave the forum without a few cosas.primero say congratulations on your route is very nice and really enjoyed it, my respect and admiration for you, but I think we're doing very bad judge people without knowing them , so I think you would have to repeat parad hot-ice and so after a say in their own judgment and not seen other things that an eye was not an yours, is just an opinion, I would love that and repitieras the will graduate and you put what you think is suitable, just say that you can not be so negative, I have nothing against anyone, but I do not like it at all the discussion and politicking, but of course that is to richar a little on the last lot, telling many lies and making up your own story you really after seeing the photos of Falques llevavamos think a saw to cut wood??? please, just from my humble position I can invite you to come to our country to climb, here you will want for nothing, and so we can intercanviar artificiera culture, so no disrespect far much Take care and enjoy life in this Internet is to get crazy, now I understand many things, if you need anything Any mail richi has my luck


This pic says it all man.

I led my first aid pitch yesterday. Granted it was only a 5.7 crack i basically made a1, and solid granite but I placed 18 pieces over 30m or so. Basically one every 1.67m or 5.5feet.

That means that even if you are say 30 feet away from your belayer in this pic, and you have 28 pieces in, then there is one every 1.07feet!!! Which is even less than the 18 inches Richard said!!! How many of those are bashies dude!!!

(Google translated reply for Pelut)
Dirigí mi tono de primeros auxilios ayer. Pero reconozco que era sólo una grieta 5.7 i básicamente a1, y el granito sólido, pero yo puse 18 piezas más de 30 metros o menos. Básicamente uno cada 1,67 m o 5.5feet.

Esto significa que incluso si usted es decir 30 pies de distancia de su asegurador en esta foto, y tiene 28 piezas, entonces hay una cada 1.07feet! Lo que es aún inferior a los 18 centímetros, dijo Richard! ¿Cuántos de ellos son monedas de cobre?

Edit: is there a word for inches in spanish? ^^^^^^
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Sep 25, 2012 - 02:23am PT
Spanish:
La ética en la escalada en roca es bueno! Pero Pelut no es la escalada en roca!

English:
Ethics in rock climbing is good! But Pelut is not rock climbing!
Da_Dweeb

climber
Sep 25, 2012 - 04:10am PT
David-

Voy a tratar de resolver este problema a usted de una manera respetuosa.

La ética culturales locales con respecto a la escalada involucrar como pocas modificaciones a la roca como sea posible. Grandes cantidades de modificación, martillar, taladrar, atornillar, serrar, cualquier cosa que daña la roca se debe evitar siempre que sea posible. Los escaladores se modifique la roca, a veces, para enlazar las funciones escalables que de otro modo no podrían alcanzar. Las fotografías que usted y Richard acondicionados están demostrando una gran cantidad de modificaciones y daños a la roca que no parece justificado o propósito - que es la razón más grande por qué mirar hacia fuera! ¡Peligro! Se considera que se hace en forma deficiente por muchos escaladores en este hilo.

También con respecto a la ética de rock local escalada, rutas culturales se consideran estar en baja forma, si no son repetibles por los partidos de ascenso en el futuro. En otras palabras, la inserción y después retirando las espigas de madera y similares no se hacen para una ruta sostenible para las partes de ascenso futuras. (Esta es una gran parte de por qué Jim Beyer fue desacreditado por sus tácticas de Intifada.) Esta es la razón por qué el segundo mayor mirada hacia fuera! ¡Peligro! Se considera que se hace en forma deficiente por muchos escaladores en este hilo.

Por último, al rock local escalada ética cultural, no es una buena idea para tratar de vender una ruta como A6. A6 se considera una "mítica" de calificación. Usted definitivamente no quieren promocionar una ruta como A6 + a menos que sea una subida muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy, muy difícil . Las tácticas y técnicas de las fotografías de Look Out! ¡Peligro! mostrar No hablamos de una ruta que es casi lo suficientemente difícil de justificar incluso una calificación A5 por las normas culturales de Estados Unidos escalada.

¿Hay prejuicios contra los escaladores de España o catalán? Si, vamos por lo que he visto aquí, sí la hay. Desde algunos - pero no todos - de los escaladores en este hilo. Es lamentable y desafortunado que este prejuicio existe, sin embargo, esta no es la razón por la cual la mayoría de los escaladores en este tema desaprueba su ascenso. Una vez más, la razón principal es que viola la ética y las normas culturales de lo que constituye un buen primer ascenso a las Torres de Fisher.

Este hilo no es realmente una bomba de ego por parte de Richard Jensen - le informa de lo que encontró en su segundo ascenso. Él ha hecho un buen trabajo de documentar y fotografiar lo que encontró. Sus propias fotografías no son realmente demostrar nada diferente de lo que él informó.

Tal vez en este punto un buen enfoque sería la de expresar humildad y consultar con los escaladores en este foro acerca de cómo hacer una primera ascensión que no violan la ética y las normas culturales de las Torres de Fisher.

David, me gustaría conocer tu opinión sobre esta entrada si no te importa. Gracias.

Respetuosamente,
Jeff Schulze (AKA Coz)
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