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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Waves have been goooooooood lately.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Scored some amazing / warm surf down in the southern hemi (or actually on the equator i guess) last week. This is at San Cristobal in the Galapagos Islands.
7-10 foot SW swell rolled in for a couple days, and it was going off here. Had it to myself every morning. Except one day, when there was a little local surf competition. The groms were shredding, and amazed by my whiteness haha. Luckily I tanned out a bit by the end, but still being a foot taller than anyone on the island and the only one with blue eyes and blonde hair, definitely made me stick out where ever i went.
Every take off, it was best not to look down at the nearly exposed /sometimes out of the water reef.
The sea lions were very playful and not afraid of humans.
Pound some stubs into the tree and bam climbing route! I wanted to get a look at the anchor, but it was out of site....the rope was a little scary looking.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Ghoulwej says it all
Surfing and climbing..... What a life!!!!
I am all smiles!!!!!
right on
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Great trip report briham89! surfing over a beautiful coral reef in warm clear water with abundant sea life,and tree climbing too, very cool!
We have had a visiting Hawaiian Monk seal at our launch spot lately. Here's a link to a story that that I put together about it.
http://mauiwindsurfing.blogspot.com/2012/03/goldie-and-seal.html
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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haha cool o-man and thanks. Such playful animals!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Yep.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Pretty fûckin splitter right on accurate dude.
Siiiick list leavittator, full on.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Something awesome about surfing:
No partner...
Its a totally selfish endeavor done on your own terms
Something awesome about climbing:
The lifelong or at least memorable friends that are made when you have "the right partner".
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Maui has an abundance of substantial waves but there is one glitch and that is wind. So in order to fully take advantage of these dynamic waves you really need a wind sport in addition to traditional paddle in tactics.
In the link below I have tried to share a fairly typical winter day in my neck of the woods.
http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com/2011/08/another-great-day-at-beach.html
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Probably the best barrel session I ever had was on a Good Friday.
Beachbreaks are more often than not, very fickle. My local spot was no exception, with magical windows lasting sometimes only half an hour.
Even though I could walk to Trestles from my house, the allure of catching the beachie when it was ON kept me checking there first. I noted angles, periods, and tides. Made sure to check right before dark, and hope for the right windchimes to wake me up for the dawnie.
Trestles was always good, and most of the time, crowded. It was always a small victory to catch Lowers good midday, or when the surf cammers were fooled.
But catching Park meant so much more.
More challenge(wave, not crowd). More risk and more reward. This beachbreak is not a typical gradual sloping sand bottom with waves breaking way outside. It is a ledgy, steep beach with an occasional rock. Super tide dependant.
So when spring would roll around, with combo swells, cleaned up storm surf, windswell, and early offshores that quickly changed...my spidey senses would tingle.
That one Good Friday dawned with just the right combination of factors to make it go off. Added factor- no one else thought it would be good that morning. Not a creature was stirring...
I suited up at home watching that weather girl Jillian and coffeeing up. I didn't need to check it, i knew it was on.
I rode over and started down the trail. My first view down the canyon was a sweet one. A frames. Spit. No one out. Not big, not small- juuust right. Like porridge.
I ran down the trail, amping.
The paddle was cake, as the wave breaks close, and conditions were superclean, and soon enough a nice little bump came my way.
I was riding my 6'0 RNF- a kind of fish/shortboard hybrid, twinnie with a chip trailer.
Easy in, fade off the bottom, eye that obvious step, and schhhhhhhhhhhhwwwwiiiiiissssssssss. Barrelled.
Again.
Repeat.
That step was there every time, so easy to read, so easy to set up, so easy to make.
I must've gotten, I don't know, 20 barrels that morning before the tide and wind made me go to work.
I show up at the house I'm painting and am hanging up my wettie when the homeowner drives up. He's a surfer too.
I'm all stoked and he's all bummed.
He went to Trestles.
And it SUCKED!
Sorry for the spray but every Good Friday I remember that session.
Especially now that I'm in Tucson.
Edit
Waaaaay earlier in this there are pics of this spot and it's many moods .
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Sorry for the spray drljefe,That ain't spray that's a great story! I am stoked that you shared it,it being Good Friday and all. 20 Barrels before work, now that's a gooood friday and something to to remember my friend.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Right on o man!
I had kind of set a goal to get good at surfing the beachbreak. Aside from being fickle, it was often tricky and sometimes heavy.
All the points are so easy(and fun) that it makes you feel like Kelly Slater with hair. Try surfing a faster, or hollower, or trickier wave and feel like a kook.
So i surfed the beachbreak when it sucked, when it was wrong, blown, whatever.
I really tried to remember everything that made it work, and even then it would suck, or i would.
Slowly i figured out the nuances of the beach, the wave. I built my skills and reaction time.
The days when it all would come together were awesome.
Then i would go back to the points and just amp out on how long and forgiving the waves were. Paddling for hours. Tired legs.
And crowds.
Like Warbler said, you spend a lot of time surfing the crowd. Even with friends, or a spot in the lineup, it gets old.
What i can say is that it prepared me well for roadtrips to other spots when they were crowded. Whether putting on the cloaking device, or the hood and warpaint, I could usually get my share at Rincon or wherever.
Love those pointbreaks!!!!
But man, give me a dredger with no crowd and a short paddle and I'm a happy guy!
Damn i need a surf.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
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Smooth cruise or slash & burn?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Gerry Lopez in my friend Lyle's (L. John Hitchcock) 1972 film Island Magic:
with Santana Guajira. He looks Goofy to me.
//Que lo que quiere guajira
Si tu quieres bailar
Yo te agarro la mano
Y vamos a bailar//
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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"Without rock we would all be surfers." David Lovejoy
Little doubt as to where Sheridan stood in all this...
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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"Without rock we would all be surfers." David Lovejoy I got some great waves today and that makes me very happy.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Apr 10, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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SUP AT WEDGE?!?!?! now i have seen everything
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