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fosburg
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
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Well, let's hope for cold temps.
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 10:42pm PT
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I've got a pair of tools you can use Werner, it'll be great!
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rdh
climber
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Dec 29, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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Just curious as to what the immediately preceding posted photos by vitally m. have to do with Valley ice? They are clearly not in the valley. Shouldn't they be deleted from this thread?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 29, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
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Just curious as to what the immediately preceding posted photos by vitally m. have to do with Valley ice?
Pure spray, and yes, the photos should be deleted. Call the elves to take them down! Along with all the other posts that do not have anything to do with the valley ice...like your post. And non-climbing threads on the forum too.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 07:25am PT
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Thanks for the pics Walter. Got more? How about that video Dan, I would love to see that.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 30, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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Walleye wrote: "perhaps the thinnest, yet coldest most bonded conditions the Strand has ever been climbed on. Winter 2006-07."
Here's a link to more pics from the Scott Brown, Doug Nidever, and Dave Bangston climb of the Widows Tears on January 17, 2007:
http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/Widows.html
Walleye, do you know if the Silver Strand was also climbed that season?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 10:40am PT
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Warbler put up the Tears? Respect, braj.
Brah, it took them like 4 days with 3 bivouacs. That's some PellucidWombat shiet. Megalight. 2/10. Have you done it IAD since than Warbeezy?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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We did it with one set of tools, so we had to lower them to the follower after every lead. It was in Late February, so every afternoon crap would start falling off the rim after being in the sun all day, so we stopped climbing early, i don't even have to tell us what those tools looked like, AND the first pitch was my first lead, evah, on ice.
Did I mention no goretex or pile, wool knickers and sweaters, wet down bags, and no food on the last day?
Sounds like a typical party on Munginella in the present times...muhuhaha
Because I am not climbing, I will keep on hatin'. Keepin it Yosemite Ice oriented though...
Check out the orange rope in the photo below...god...I don't even want to do this silly waterfall any longer; everyone on it seem to do noob shiet. Gosh..
Would love to see some photos of people sending it today, or yesterday. Rub it innnn! :((
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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Where do you live now Kevin?
Burchy, hijack him on the way to Lee Vining (last weekend of January, right?). Imagine how much fun we would have if we all got to hang out together. Seriously!
AND it was only three days, no falls no hangs no bolts, btw.
Daum, would be sick if you bolted a pure ice climb.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
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looks like its ready!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
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these shots are from a few hours ago!
heres a closeup of the section thats always the slowest to form up on the tears
midsection
top is looking Phat!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
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Somebody needs to hop on that thing. The Rocky Mountain states are full of great ice climbers who would dispatch that thing in no time. Maybe someone needs to get on the phone.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 30, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
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lower half of strand
upper half
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
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Hope someone does it tomorrow and breaks the trail!
Silver Strand looks so much more FAT compared to when I did it. We placed no bolts and climbed with no hangs too!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I live in La Jolla Vittles, and it's been plenty cold for me right here.
Hope we go to some ST meet up or I go down there to check out woodson so that we all could hang out. Would be fun, I think. Probably a good thing you can't make it out to LV, all of our egos would melt all the ice and the chief would be super pissed.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 30, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
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Some of the story of the bold FA of the Widows Tears by Kevin Worral and Mark Chapman in 1975 (perhaps as recounted by Mark Chapman), as recorded in Jeff Lowe's 1979 book, The Ice Experience:
Cheers!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
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Wow that is a cool article you posted, Bill. Too bad Kevin's sexy face did not get as much exposure as Mark's. Impressive feat for the day. I think first versions of ice tools were made around 1972?
Pretty crazy they call 'The Nemesis (wi6)' as the hardest route in the Canadian Rockies at the time. In addition, it did not have a free ascent than. When my friend and I climbed it a month or so ago, it was after not doing any ice climbing in two years (aside from the Silver Strand). It was not picked out, was in thin conditions compared to the usual picked out semi-ladder, but it didn't even feel that bad. Not saying it was easy by any means, but it was more fun than "OMG IM GONNA DIE," even though I have thought that at least a few times. But I do that on well protected 5.10s too when my feet are 2 ft above a cam. :) Modern gear makes things so much more fun, damn I am happy about all the advances that were made. We are so lucky...
Is the Curtain Call considered to be harder than the Nemesis?
"Mark took a long fall on the tied off screw on the ninth pitch. He finally used a few screws for aid..."
Did you guys go back to redpoint? Weerbeezy be wolfin about no falls brah! >:)
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 30, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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Vitaliy - J Brent Peters lists Curtain Call as slightly more difficult that Nemesis in his 2013 guidebook, IceLines Select Waterfalls of the Canadian Rockies. However, "conditions may vary..." Haven't done Nemesis, yet, but was super lucky and got excellent ice (almost easy given modern gear) and the magical mystery tour finish on Curtain Call a while back. http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Some-late-season-Canadian-ice-various-little-climbs-along-with-Curtain-Call-and-the-Polar-Circus/t12716n.html
For me, modern tools, crampons, screws, light ropes, and clothing are so much better and so much more fun to climb with than the stuff available in and before 1979 when a lot of the "hard" routes listed in Jeff Lowe's book were FA-ed. Cheers!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Dec 30, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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Thursday and Friday the lows are looking good...
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