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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Nov 24, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Bravo Marty, bravissimo!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
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Photo of Nicholas Karabin in front of the Cam Devices Display
at the AZ Hiking Shack. Seeing the whole display in one view is pretty cool!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I really enjoyed the little exibit @ devils tower. I feel that random gear is not that big a deal. Specific gear with a story behind it is a big deal. Warren Hardings hammer, bat tent and empty wine jugs combined with photos and the backstory. that sells! a bunch of old random gear. not so much.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
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tradmanclimbs - your supertopo name reflects your love for crack climbing, but yet your comment of seeing over 200 different cams in one place at one time does not interest you? I have a story for each piece of gear shown but no room to display the "backstory."
In todays world the internet is doing an awesome job of piecing together old historical data, photos and facts of everything. The backstory is actually easy to obtain these days, where collecting climbing gear has skyrocketed and there are not as many vintage pieces surfacing.
Your interest seems to be with Warren Harding. I got the opportunity to meet Warren and shake his hand a year before he died. For him he looked at me like "whatever," to me I looked at him like "wow."
I was able to obtain a few Harding items like the BAT Hammock.
BAT one piece Harness circa 1971. Warren gave this harness to John Middendorf as a gift, then John donated it to the Karabin Museum. Warren claimed that he created the first one piece harness. To me personally it looks like a butt bag where butt bags were first used earlier in the 1960s.
A few vintage hangers. The left is the original King Swing hanger used from the top of Boot Flake on the Nose Route placed by Warren. The middle hanger is a DOLDT hanger used on the FA of the Nose. The right hanger is from the top of the Lost Arrow Spire placed by John Salathe in the late 1940s.
I have a few more BAT items, BAT tshirt, etc
they are in the display at the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe.
Rock on! Marty
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
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Summit Magazine November 1959
Happy Holidays!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Congrats on finding a place to display your cams, and on filling it so nicely.
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RolonRolon
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 11:18am PT
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awesome collection Marty! Hopefully I'll make it out to see them in person but till then, thanks for putting up the pictures.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Dec 30, 2011 - 09:58am PT
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Marty, That is so much work! Thanks for sharing. It is obvious how much you love it. You are a great resource. Can't wait to see it in person. I can't tell you how happy I am that you helping to preserve our history. So much of that stuff is irreplaceable. Thanks for keeping it safe and preserving it for us to see.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 30, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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Best wishes and success Marty!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 15, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Bump.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 15, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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Bump for Marty & his incredible, but organized, collecton!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 15, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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Marty, why did you stop? Two years?
Hey, do you have any cool gear or hardware from Australia to show? Like some funky carrot bolts or other anchors, portable hangers, etc?
Anyway-bump
Arne
Edit-By the way, I hope things are going well for you and have a Merry Christmas.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 08:49am PT
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Answering the question: So why so many years in between?
For the last ten years life has totally kicked my ass. No matter how many times I got back up, and firmly on my feet, I was once again smacked to the ground. Divorce, bankruptcy, broken leg, climbing store closed, tax problems, bill collectors, lawyers, all while working full time and raising two kids. So while all of these challenging things were trying to crush my world, I was somehow being directed to a different world which kept my curiosity.
Once I moved out of the parents house at age 18, that was it for religion and church and spirituality for me. I still respected church to the fullest, visiting on Easter and Christmas, but now Nature was my church and Nature was my religion and Nature is my comfortable escape from the pressures of life.
Eventually I got married, was then home husband raising two baby boys, and then divorce came along. This is where my story starts getting interesting. As the divorce started, my family doctor prescribed to me a drug to help me sleep. Instead of sleeping the drug was periodically stopping my heart and restarting it 20 seconds later. Even though the doctors told me to keep taking the drug, I stopped taking the drug after two weeks and it almost was not soon enough. I passed out at home and was out for over two hours. I first saw lightning bolt type lights on the ceiling of the room, and then I found myself at heavens gate where a human figure slid over to me, exclaimed laughingly that I was not supposed to be there, and gave me a message to remember. He said "The energy is within, you just need to bring it out." It was the classic dark hallway with doorway at the end with intense light coming through the doorway scene. The next day I went to the doctors office, passed out there and woke up with monitors attached to me in the hospital. The drug is named Remeron and this was in July 2001. I thought about the heavens gate vision for a while. It was like the realest dream I have ever had and I couldn't stop thinking about it. Eventually I concluded that it was totally silly and wrote the heavens gate thing off as a dream.
January 2004 I was on top of Pinnacle Peak in charge of running 35 boy scouts and family members through a climbing adventure. Climb to top, tyroleon traverse between pinnacles, rappel to ground. Basic horse and pony show! During the afternoon I was approached by a couple named Glenn and Lisa, who hiked to the base of the climb and asked if they could join in with the fun. I told them to grab a harness and follow the line of kids to the top. Glenn and Lisa loved the climb and hired me for the next day for climbing, and to show them around the mountain. That day they had just moved into a house near the base of Pinnacle Peak.
The following day the three of us were excited to climb and got onto the mountain early. I had a full day planned of showing my tourists the best climbs the mountain had to offer, but after the first climb, Glenn and Lisa said they were done and just wanted to talk. I was like, "thats weird" since it was only 9:30 in the morning, but they hired me for the day so we found a nice spot to have an early lunch over by "Y"Crack Boulder. Lisa remained quiet as Glenn kept asking me "How do you feel?" over and over, "How do you feel?" At first I thought this guy is weird or something but at the same time he had my full attention. Glenn started explaining that he is a Spiritual Guide and he is excited to have found me. Very excited! At this point I was getting uncomfortable since this was going outside of my "nature church comfort zone." Glenn then stated "Marty, you have been contacted." I remained cautioned, quiet, but still murmured "what do you mean?" Glenn leaned over to me with a proud smile and said "Marty, you have been contacted." "You were told, The energy is within," "You just need to bring it out."
At this point I stared at him for 20 minutes without a word. How is this possible? Glenn continued talking and told me other things about my past, and knew things that were coming up in my future as well. He confirmed that I have a spirit guide that watches over me which I believe is my fathers dad, Michael (guardian angel). I am still blown away that Glenn repeated the Heavens Gate message. Only myself, friend Robert, and my Xwife knew the message. So now my brain gets confirmation that the Heavens Gate vision was real, sweet! Glenn gave me a copy of his new book "Is anybody Awake out there." which is a interactive workbook which creates balance in life. I continued to climb with Glenn and Lisa a few more times over the next two years and then we lost touch. Glenn's book went onto my bookshelf, and I never opened it. I felt more comfortable in my nature church setting over getting involved in what could be considered truth.
In 2006 I opened a climbing store named "AZ Cliff Hanger." Between the store, full time job, raising kids, girlfriend, etc, life was always busy and I didn't have time to think about spiritual stuff at all. By 2008 I was single again and life was its usual business. But I started feeling like a force was continually challenging me to find something. This feeling was driving me crazy so I moved my nature church basecamp to Blue Ridge Reservoir. I knew that nature had the answer for me and I was going to find it. Blue Ridge is an incredible canyon reservoir with 5 miles of water, limestone boulders, trout fishing, and lots of adventuring. Every weekend my canoe was packed with hammocks, fishing gear and crashpads and I was off to explore the wilderness.
But after 15 months of exploring, I felt like I was no closer to an answer. This unknown force still pestered me to push on. I found myself hiking into absolute exhaustion while I searched for, I think, the definition of happiness. I was seeing that my nature church was not resolving my thoughts and it was leaving me in a very alone place in life. My kids accompanied me on a few of the Blue Ridge outings and on one of the trips my son made it aware to me that I was going to hurt myself. For some reason I started showing off by climbing the boulders without ropes or pads. "How do we get home once you are hurt dad?" was the question from my son. I looked down at the death landing I was above and then realized what he was questioning.
It is a really strange feeling when you reach a point of numbness in life. You can have everything in life but at the same time you feel that you have nothing. At work I asked my friend Justin about this numbness feeling I had and his suggestion was to stop climbing solo. I knew personally something was about to happen. The following week was the Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah July 2009. On the last day of the show I broke my right leg Femur in seven places falling off the start of a boulder problem in Little Cottonwood canyon. Luckily for me I was on flat ground only 50' away from the road.
So ambulance ride to the hospital, surgery the next morning, and then things got interesting. When I was being awakened by the recovery room nurse, I woke up not being in the hospital but being in the center of a huge sphere of eyeball looking objects. I was in a laying position and a spirit made of orange dots/atoms was happily standing watching over me to my left. The recovery room nurse tried many times to wake me but I kept telling him to stop interrupting me while I was with my guardian angel. The orange spirit was talking to me and instructed me to move some of the eye-looking objects to different positions. He said "This is the place where you can change anything about yourself." I reached up and moved three objects to different locations and then gasped and exclaimed that it was too powerful to continue. I suddenly felt all of my energy leaving my body like a sink full of water draining as somebody just pulled the plug out. Instantly I found myself awake in the recovery room, with the recovery nurse, and with fill remembrance of this sphere vision.
I was moved to a two patient room where at the moment I was the only person in the room. At first I investigated my new leg bandages and assessed my situation, then laid back thinking about the eyeball sphere and how totally real it felt. It was so real that I kept hearing the orange spirits voice talking to me, which was coming in loud and clear like the television was on, but it was not. I started asking questions like, "Who am I talking to?" "Is this God?" "Who are you?" Later in the day the recovery room nurse came in to the room and asked me how I was doing. We quickly got onto the guardian angel subject. So I asked the nurse, "you being the person who wakes up patients after surgery for a living, you must experience this stuff all of the time?" The nurse replied, "This was a first for me, you were totally tripping man!"
A scientific look at this would conclude that I was at the time on a lot of drugs, due to femur reconstructive surgery. Maybe my body was shocked in some way. But this does not explain why I am still hearing the orange spirits voice. My main concern in the hospital was if I was going to walk again, so I kept asking the orange spirit, "Will I be able to walk again?" The orange spirit kept answering suggesting for me to purchase a camera and create a movie. At this time I didn't even own a camera and thought that this answer from the spirit world was totally bizarre. But the more I thought about it, the more it enlightened my curiosity. Enlightened it to the point that I started writing movie ideas while in the hospital two days after the accident stating to the hospital staff, "God wants me to make a movie."
After seven days in the Utah hospital, I finally was able to get back home to Arizona. Many friends and family was there to assist my recovery and I told them about the strange spiritual things I witnessed in the hospital. Especially being in "God's Eye" (the sphere), and of course they all looked back at me with a perplexed look on their faces. I slowly grew uneasy about the hospital visions and contacted Glenn. The sphere was showing itself again and again at my house, accompanied with many different peoples voices and it was really freaking me out. Glenn was at my house the next morning and before he even said hello to me he proudly stated aloud, "you have a new guide." My parents got to witness Glenn at work and his ability of "Knowing." Glenn somehow pushed the reset button in me and put me back in the correct direction of my journey. He also brought along another copy of his book and told me to start here to find the Awakening.
Once again I put his book on the shelf and another year went by. Life started falling back into its "same old same old ways," until I purchased a video camera. God said make a movie so
okay. Through the camera I suddenly saw that my kids were teenagers and I had yet to teach them of what I believe life was about. I truthfully did not have an answer myself so my plan was to research Religion and Spirituality, and then to create a guide for my kids which shows what I believe is the truth of life. I believe that the best gift an adult can give its children, is a truthful assessment of what they believe. Not dragging your kids to every religious institution because it is what the adults parents did and so on
Don't hesitate to teach your kids what you believe when you did the research to back your answers. If you are teaching without the background research, you are sending your kids out in the world being blind. In some cases it is interesting that kids that have been dragged to church, know more about the church fabric than the parents do. While creating the movies, I started reading Glenn's book.
So my movie subject was rock climbing and I centered on the youth climbing team at the Phoenix Rock Gym. The team was first named Team Thrashers which was later changed to the Rock Phenoms. I produced many movies but my main two movies were "Living the Dream", and "Phenom Style." These movies cover the lives of the climbing team kids and their journey leading to the USA Climbing Nationals. Due to using regular music from the radio and avoiding lawsuits, I didn't share movies on YouTube, etc. The movies were a gift to all who were involved with the climbing teams. At the end of the Living the Dream movie, I wrote "Thank you God for giving me the ability to produce this awesome movie!" I was really proud to accomplish this challenge presented to me from the spirit world.
My orange spirit world friend I named "teacher" and over time I became aware that he is not God or a saint, but was a person who lived on Earth in the past. Teacher during the night was taking me through a door to a classroom where I was learning a subject called "Word School." After 6 months of that subject I was then put into "Deception Class" and was told this class will continue through the rest of my life. I thought it was really cool that I could go through this doorway myself without my teacher and visit other places. When I was young around 7 years old, I found a doorway that went to a land which was surrounded by a massive stone wall. On the right corner end of this wall (which I perceive is South/East) is a massive arched doorway with closed Oak doors on big hinges. As a kid I tried climbing the wall to see inside but the wall expanded upward as I climbed it. The further I climbed, the higher the wall grew. I never was able to see inside. Now as I go through the spiritual doorway, I returned to this Oak Door and it is not there. I even have inspected the sides of the arched entrance, and there are no signs that hinges were ever there. Inside is an expansive colorful meadow. It is visually incredible and limitless and it stimulates the senses giving one the feeling of swimming in Grace. In the far distance are streams and mountains. Other people have told me their experiences with this same meadow. I believe this meadow is named or is in Summerland located somewhere at the top of the Astral Plateau.
So all through 2010-2013 I was researching Spirituality like I was cramming for college finals. My want to know truth was reaching a point of insanity. In June 2012 my body became really sick from all of the study and the in-and-out of the spirit world visits. I lost a lot of weight, skin turning gray, kids looking at me strange, that kind of stuff. I was instructed to go to a person named Dawn for help where she became my new mentor. Dawn sent me to a Shaman named John who basically told me that I am a blonde dumb ass. Walking through doorways without protection letting every entity take a stab at me. John closed all of my doors, removed an entity, put protection onto me, and sent me back to Dawn. Wow, what an experience! I always knew Dawn as the mom of one of the kids on the climbing team, but by strange coincidence, she is a Lives-Between-Lives Hypnotherapist.
At this point in life I have a million questions and one to ask Dawn about the spirit world, so I chose just the one. What is the Gods Eye sphere? She didn't know but she knew where to start, which was in "the chair." She was so interested in my story that I was not charged for her time, and I am very grateful. My orange spirit came forward and told me his name is Harold, a famous silent film producer from the 1920s. This probably explains why with Harold's help, my movie creation was very easy. With Dawn as my GPS and Harold as my guide on the spirit world plateau, I was able to reach the sphere again within a few sessions, and this time I took measurements and brought back with me all of the info that I could.
By May 2013 I finally had the info I was looking for to create the guides for my kids on what I believe life is about. It is their choice to believe or not believe the information I wrote. Somehow I know that it will be useful in their future because the existence of the guides themselves, shows the kids that dad found it important in his life to look into the spirituality question. Once I had these guides completed my life suddenly became calm. Harold says I have reached a place called the "Blessing." To me I feel very satisfied with my surroundings, and life is great!
The reason I am sharing my story is that I am tired of carrying it around. Many of my friends already know it and have helped me by sharing their thoughts and experiences. By sharing my story I have nothing to gain with it except removing weight off of my back. I also see I have nothing to lose since it is truth.
Below is the drawing I made August 2009 just after the Utah hospital visit. Below that is a photo I found in May 2013 shown in the last 9 minutes on a Netflix Documentary named "DMT the spirit molecule." The Netflix documentary just proves to me that somebody else has also been in this sphere. I believe everybody has their own sphere. It is the library whole which creates the souls individual character, retains your present Earth settings/intentions, holds the entire history of the many yous that you have been.
To the many helpers I have and have met on this journey, MANY BLESSINGS, THANK YOU !!!
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jun 14, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Interesting story about the visions and what not
You should know there is a lot of weird stuff that can happen to you when you're in pain or on drugs for pain or perhaps close to punching your ticket out of here
Some believe it's spiritual, others biochemistry of a brain trying to protect the body
This distinction is kind of the core of the debate on whether there is more than what's visible here and now
There's a lot of interesting reading to be done about NDE and DMT
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overwatch
climber
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Jun 14, 2014 - 10:24am PT
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Maybe it is spiritual and biochemical...wonderfully fascinating story
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jun 14, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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Wow Marty, you've come a million miles since the last time we corresponded. I'm glad things are clearer for you now. I'm also sure this is not the end of your journey. Hang on for future happenings!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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In the last five years I have witnessed so many bizarre spiritual things that now I just live within it. Since I was allowed back into the Meadow, I spent four years pacing and philosophizing under the Tree of Knowledge, asking for life's meaning. The answer is - go beyond the Believing stage, and place your Passion within the Knowing stage. Soon after the Passion/Knowing creates Vision. The lesser your ego, the greater the Vision.
Jan, Thanks for the energy! My mentor Dawn has taught me how to reconnect with Mother Nature and happily get my hands and clothes dirty. Harold also suggested to purchase a drum and now I am a drummer for a Grandfather sweat lodge in Mesa. What better blessings than being involved! Next weekend will be my 7th Lodge I have attended.
Somewhere I have read, "The miracle is not learning to levitate or to walk on the water, but to live happily on this Earth.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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I have been working on a new display for the Karabin Museum at the AZ Hiking Shack, to replace the present display of camming devices. So if you have not seen the cam display it will be changing in the next few months so don't miss out! The new display is a historical look at Chouinard products. I started another Supertopo thread named "Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions" which is loaded with cool Chouinard stuff. The lineup of Chouinard catalogs below is listed on the Chouinard Gear thread as well so I didn't want to be necessarily redundant, but I thought it would be a great lead-in to the following post, which is most of the Black Diamond catalogs. Enjoy!
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Chouinard catalogs
March 1960 Dolt catalog shows Chouinard carabiners, pitons, and RURP.
Chouinard goes into the Army winter 1962 - July 1964. I wonder if somebody was still selling his pitons while he was in the Army? This is probably why there is no Chouinard catalogs previous to 1964. The January 31, 1977 New Yorker Profile story on Chouinard states that in 1964 Chouinard went back into creating climbing gear immediately and created a one page price list flyer for the climbing stores. At the bottom it was written "Don't expect a speedy delivery in the months of May, June, July, August and September." Because those were the climbing months.
Identifying the 1960s Chouinard catalogs has been quite a challenge. I know that there are a few more Chouinard catalogs that need to surface which will straighten out the year date confusion.
The 1972 catalog remained the same through the year 1974. Only the price list in the back of the catalogs changed. I believe that there are four different price lists per year, and three years of this catalog. So possibly 12 different price lists.
Inside the 1974 Winter newsletter was Hexcentric templates where a person who has Chouinard Hexcentrics can drill their own lightening holes. What is interesting is that Chouinard did not offer Hexcentrics with predrilled lightening holes until 1976, but offered the templates in 1974 to do the work yourself.
The 1975, 1976 and 1977 Chouinard catalog covers remained the same but some of the pages changed. To identify the 1975 catalog the Hexcentics in the catalog photo should have solid sides. The 1976 catalog shows the Hexcentrics with lightening holes. The 1977 catalog has 1977 Featherlight Carabiner in the "Firsts list" I believe also that the 1975, 1976, and 1977 catalogs had two different price lists each, spring and fall.
The 1978 catalog has two versions spring and fall. The spring shows wood piolets and the fall shows carbon glass piolets.
I am still looking for a better copy of 1979. Not sure if had spring and fall versions.
Chouinard becomes Black Diamond late 1989.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Black Diamond catalogs
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Jul 11, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Awesome story about your journey and the movies Marty - thank you so much! What a wonderful world we live in!
Loved the 'you're a dumbshit blond' part - we've all been there(even us brownies ;). I remember one time someone looking at me and saying 'I don't know how to tell you this Erik, but I think you're only halfway down the hill you're falling down.' Hahaha, that'll get your attention like a rattler!
Thanks for your stoke bro!
e
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