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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 31, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Jay--I could pick up the Divine ms. em also, if necessary!!!!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 31, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
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eeyonkee, crush it bro! I wish I could be there.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jul 31, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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I'm going to be there. GO Eeyonkee!!!!!!! Let me know if the Divine Ms. Em has any issue finding a ride... so far it sounds like she is covered... I'll be heading up from Ft. Collins sometime Friday.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Grug
I sent you a pm, so if you didn't see it, check your junkmail. . .
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 10:30am PT
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Thanks for the encouragement, everybody. Looks like Em is being taken care of. I, too, could be a backup, there. So, less than a week to go. Here's my short term plan.
1. Remember to bring a REAL pillow, not settle for a makeshift hoodie around a number 6 Camalot or something. Getting a good night's sleep is going to be key.
2. Remember to fix my blowup mattress. Again, the whole sleeping thing.
3. Apply neosporin everyday to all of my scrapes from recent time spent at Vedauwoo. Hopefully, they will be largely healed before Saturday.
4. Try to forget about the "mixed" results I've had recently. Wide cracks are hard.
5. Try to at least give up beer for this final week. I feel guilty about this, especially for those of you with money on me. 4-5 beers a day is probably not in the best training regimens. I can do better...
...Gotta get back to work. These are the easy, obvious steps in the plan. I've got a few more, but they need the light of articulation (later).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Pillow, blow up doll, beer as reward not breakfast.
All sounds good, if lite...
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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I have something stronger than a comfy pillow for sleep, better living through chemistry yahknow.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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Lite, huh? The next step that I hadn't mentioned (or come up with) yet involves a bunch of hard work on my part.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Hoh yeah! But you're a hard worker!
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Grug,
Haven't decided on the drive yet but if I'm not there, I'll be sending energy your way. I think you can do it. Just be patient. There is a section where you have to be satisfied with an inch at a time. You'll get there. It's not super long, it just seems that way.
mike
Lowering out is almost as difficult as finishing, so you might as well finish!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Okay, everybody tell Mike he's gotta be there too!
Lower out is only 5.10/.11a max, and that's in a swami with no legloops....
the Send is prouder, though....
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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Thanks Mike. That means a lot (finally, some friggin' beta!). I actually do have a strategy of sorts. One of the things I have noticed is that leading offwidths these days is harder for me compared to the old days because of how "easy" it is to keep a piece above you. Of course, it's not easy at all. I would say screwing around trying to keep gear above you (and the peace of mind that comes with that) makes a lead 75% harder. The rope's always getting stuck against your knee or butt against the rock...and then you try to push the leading piece up and you can't! Aaaarggghhhh! The old days were simpler...you just had to go for it. That's the way I did Air Voyage (probably my hardest lead OW) The key is to wait for the rest to place pro.
So, I'm hoping I can place such that it isn't actually dangerous for a big whipper and then go out ahead of my pro. Then I can focus on the OW climbing and not on the pro.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I'm hoping I can place such that it isn't actually dangerous for a big whipper and then go out ahead of my pro
That's what I did!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Air Voyage? Yowsa!, maybe there's your answer, you just need more than a 1000 feet of exposure and warmup :-)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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My history with Air Voyage actually supports my case. I actually did Air Voyage three times. In 1990 and 1992 I did it the "old style" way with Clean Dan Grandusky and Tom Dickey, respectively, and led it relatively easily. In 2005, with George Lowe, trying to keep a piece above me, I got completely shut down and ended up aiding the thing.
Of course, a big part of the going out above your pro strategy relies on your having lots of confidence in your ability to hang in there. That's where the upcoming hypnosis session's going to work for me.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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hi all
yes, spontaneous teleportation is arranged with goatboy
(& thanks to others who offered ride)
Mike you sure BETTER be there... counting on seeing you!
Auntie Em
PS Greg: You're the man, you will flash, please.
Brutus's beta for OW was "a quarter-inch is GOOD progress...you just need to keep doing that quarter-inch over and over...and over...and over..."
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Hypnosis, well that should at least work with the sleep thing.
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Prod
Trad climber
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1. Remember to bring a REAL pillow, not settle for a makeshift hoodie around a number 6 Camalot or something. Getting a good night's sleep is going to be key.
2. Remember to fix my blowup mattress. Again, the whole sleeping thing.
3. Apply neosporin everyday to all of my scrapes from recent time spent at Vedauwoo. Hopefully, they will be largely healed before Saturday.
4. Try to forget about the "mixed" results I've had recently. Wide cracks are hard.
5. Try to at least give up beer for this final week. I feel guilty about this, especially for those of you with money on me. 4-5 beers a day is probably not in the best training regimens. I can do better...
To your #2, you can come over one evening and use my hot tub to find the leak.
To your #5, WTF? You're not a sport climber, your an OW climber. Drink beer be a man!
#2 and #5 combined, If you aint drinking beer then you can't come over and use the hot tub.
Prod.
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