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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I've never made it to Undertow, Illusion. Wanted to, though. Looks like the kind of thing Pamela would eat up!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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49th Street? I also want to hear about the "van Gough" get up the climber is wearing...?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
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Hey BVB, Still waiting for those stories brother!
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Hello all. I see this thread is still moving. And even an image of me on Death Vomit.
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Does anyone know who is responsible for shoring up the landing and cleaning up the foilage for Death Vomit? My regards, it's toatally cush now and should start receiving more traffic...
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Johannsolo, it didn't hit me when we ran into each other on the hill, but you should definitely seek out this thin face problem below Go With the Flow. The boulder is this 30ft tall 45degree slab (kinda pinkish in color) above CA Night and just south of the imax area. (To get to it I walked around the east side of Bad Boys and Laker Girls.) Anyways, there's a one bolt protected 5.9 lead (Coco's Cruise) to get to the top which is the best easy slab I've done on Woodson. The left arete of the boulder is super thin and immaculate rock. There's currently foliage guarding the start, but with some of your tree trimming skills that could be easily solved. For what it's worth, an old guide has it at 11c. Definitely a must do...that goes for you too Henny and anybody else wanting that style.
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gonamok
climber
sez me
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This was done recently pointbrk? We cleared the tunnel and trundled the choss away BITD, around '86 maybe. Before that, a skinny guy could barely squeeze thru. We also pushed a half ton slab of rock thru the tunnel and down the hill to make DV possible.
I never thought it had a bad landing, but better is better! Glad to hear that people are taking the time and effort to work on the infrastructure.
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gonamok
climber
sez me
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Hey pointbrk, did I meet you at J Tree a few months ago? I was taking a moonlight hike out to echo rock and came across a dude who was sitting on the trail, had just fkd up his toe pretty bad. Talked about maybe climbing some EZ's the next day, was that you?
Gary, thats me n allenby picking off yet another 1 star plum. The impossibly burly man on the rock would be me, fashionable as always. Fashionistas in the nut-hugging lycra pantaloons that were all the rage (in certain circles) at the time did not venture so far from the road.
Cant blame em either. Those tights kept your business all bunched up, front and center. One wayward branch could take you down faster than Mike Tyson on PCP.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2011 - 03:50am PT
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Thanks for the suggestion Doug. Immaculate rock could be the clincher, sounds like something to check out.
Immaculate/impeccable rock is good. Any thoughts on where more problems/boulders like that are? The fine grained, semi polished, bullet hard stuff. Crack/face/whatever. Rock quality like Hard as Nails or Slap You Silly for example.
That is some stylin'. I was once told when asking about a similar getup, "Hey..., this ain't no fashion show, babe." (Those who know "who" can probably hear it being said.) Seemed like a good reply.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I associate the lycra fad to the disco craze...kinda cool at the time but now embarassing when you look back at it, and it didn't last long (thank goodness). I recall being on Seminar Wall when one of you guys (can't remember which one of you) walked up and commented, "Well, will you look at there, he's wearing nice white bikinis under there." I think that was the last time I wore 'em.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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That Mighty Edge was a pretty impeccable highball last year...
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Haha for me the lycra fad lasted for a few trips to suicide rock. The end for me was taking a 30ft sliding fall on winter solstice. While I was resting after falling from the last bolt stance(before I could make the clip) my now exposed ass turned from white to red and started bleeding. My buddy Dan Haughelstine lowered me while laughing his butt off. That convinced me to quit wearing the thin stuff. From then on I wore Loose fitting Levis if it was to cold for shorts.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Off topic but, about a year after the 1986 Woodson contest, the stock market crashed, I lost around 14K and the spouse wanted to go home to Thailand before we lost everything, so we made preparations. After looking at a world map, realizing how close I was going to be to Nepal and that I probably wouldn't have too many chances to experience it again, I did my best to sell the idea of a solo trip to my wife...she obliged.
After spending two weeks of playing tourist in Bangkok, and an overnight train trip north to Chiang Mai, I caught a four hour flight into the Kathmamdu valley with a Hollywood film crew aboard (there to film at Everest base camp). A few glitches after landing, a taxi ride, and an overnight stay in a hotel room, I walked into the climbers hub of Thamel the next day. A young, local kid soon snatched me out of the crowd and became my guide for the next two weeks (with $125 to my name. I chose the poor person's" trek in Nepal); his name was "Sanu" (SAH' nu). Here are a handful of pictures from that trip:
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Okay, sorry about that, back to Woodson...
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gonamok
climber
sez me
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way cool gary
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I betcha this is basking in the sun in this beautiful weather we're having right now!...
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Has that aid crack to the left gone free yet?
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