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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Dec 30, 2009 - 05:16pm PT
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C'mon, Off, it's only 2 months and 3 weeks now.
I keep a rocket in my pocket, I try to bump it daily...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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I guess that didn't work or what, lol? Word has it that you can embed video's from youtube (other than just creating a link) so I tried the "embed" code from youtube and it didn't work. Maybe someone else knows?
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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"Just curious, but are you trying to keep this on the front page for the next three months?"
One_Million_Posts_On_the_Taco_Forum
I would put my $$$$$ on this thread, it would be a sure thing,
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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BUMP
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:50am PT
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Although I was a late arrival today I met up with the Rubidoux crew, Henny, Johnny, Melissa and Tim coming down the mountain who had just come off of Airstream. The afternoon was exceptional, complete with a clear view of the Point Loma peninsula, the Coronado Islands, a spectacular and huge harvest moonrise emerging up from behind the eastern horizon and a painted sunset out west!
The wind chilled us all as we ticked Eppi's B-Day and got spanked on the arete to its left. To my surprise, my toe seemed to be unaffected until I stepped up on Baby Robbins Crack and whimpered like a baby. This was not a good thing. Johnny's classic rock seem to put me "back in the day" again and that WAS a good thing!
Although a short day for me it was nice to have been there with some new faces and talented people.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 06:55am PT
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Bump for the new year!
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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help keep it bumped W/ some SD county BITD
climbing story spray...got tons of that :-)
pre and post sticky rubber exploits...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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Thank God for another beautiful day in San Diego!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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Here's some b.i.t.d. spray for ya Ray..."Do you know Ray Olson? I remember watching him do Driving South and it seemed his feet never touched the rock!" or how about this one..."At the '86 awards ceremony, when the announcer was about to give out an award, he asked, " Is Ray Olson out there? Stand up Ray so we can see you" You frustratingly replied, "I am standing up!"
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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Bump
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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hilarious!
so, check it out -
once I took Piggot way the hell out to
one of the most remote crags around
(at that time) a thing I named "The Hotel
Dell" on Mothergrundy peak.
there's this near exact - and I mean exact
carbon-copy of The Test Tube up there but,
it is way the phuk overhanging. Not roof-like
just WAY freakin steep.
So happens, I fit in the flare perfect, heel/knee
action with the lower, elbow/palm action with
the upper, fishing for tip jams with the inside hand,
and so "ratcheted" up the thing smoothly - just a
quirk; I fit the climb to a T.
Piggot did the thing no falls too, but it took some
effort, he trembled a fair bit, almost off a couple
times eeeeeee - but got it - pretty amazing.
Funny!
Rick was great to climb with.
We were all so freakin lucky to have a
life like that. What a gift climbing is!
:-)
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
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Okay, back to Mother Grundy Truck Trail...
We were TRing "Full Moon Boogy." I was sitting there tying my shoes, getting ready. I tied in and started up the thing when a friend of mine stated, "Gary, look at your shoes!" I look down while in a finger lock and notice that I have one red shoe and one green shoe! "Huh?!" I ask myself. "You've got one of my shoes on!" he laughs. I continue anyway.
Okay...it's not over....I top out on the same, meet eyes with my belayer, Joe, and take tension for the lower off. Joe has taken refuge on top of a boulder about twenty feet back from the climb, thinking that since it was just a TR everything SHOULD be okay. I begin to lower when suddenly....I BEGIN TO FALL! As my stomach makes it's way up into my throat, everything goes black! When I come to a bungy-like halt and reopen my eyes, my feet are about six feet from the ground and Joe is floundering in the dirt cloud underneath me trying to regain his composure! "WTF!" I exclaim. "There, that's for the time you rolled that car tire over my foot and ripped the toenail off when we were kids!" he retorted.
This still puzzles me to this day!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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The List:
1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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Ray, you have to come to this even if you don't climb! Come on dude everyone talks about you. Brad aka BeeHay still can't put your F.R.O.G. pack down. I was just up at Woodson yesterday and the crew from Rubidoux were the ones telling me those fun stories about you and your climbing. You really would be an asset for this one. Also, pass the word on to any contacts that you may have that haven't heard about this and have them join in as well.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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can't man - love to.
dealing w/ "severe lubar arthritis" right now,
and have some disk/bone spur crap going
on that I cannot mess with - sorry, so kind
of you and sorry to get "gory". Ok. :-)
chin up/man up - another SD cragger tale:
Pre-sticky rubber.
was out at "The Burn" with Epi, Jeff and Adrian
Almodovar. Right by the road (truck trail) are
some classic Woodson size boulders with some
nifty thin cracks! Really neat ones. These are TR
climbs BECAUSE - you need mass huevos of solid
Chromemoly steel to highball and your mental health
would be in even more question if you tried to lead.
High enough to phuk you up bad if you decked, maybe
not die and hard enough (SD county 5.11+*) to count.
* meaning this sh*t would be easily in the .12 range in
a normal YDS scenario.
There's this crack, "Double-Digit Inflation"; very pretty
straight in fingers, perfect rock, nice subtle variations
in the crack - not some brutal square cut hideous sh*t.
Primo quality.
So, we all do a lap or two on that - in E.B's...mine had some
sort of bullsh*t resole job with some kinda crappy rubber and
you just made believe it was "better than stock". We (I) was punked-
out: pink patent leather side-panels on the EB's and high end
Vaurnet sunglasses, dude.
Then, after that, I take the guys a few dozen yards north (these are
west-facing climbs) to this OTHER thing I found. I had looked at it
from the ground, stuck my mitts in it and wondered if I could really
climb the phukking thing - it is nearly a roof. And, it is "bad size";
1" to 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" and you look out, upside down and feel like
you're pulling out a roof - way cool! Killer climbing.
A TR was set. We all had a go. It was quite hard. No one was getting
it. Hmm. Took something like 3 tries, 3 falls, and the sequence finally
clicked. Its the type of climbing where you feel "barely in there" you know?.
Like a whisper and you're OFF. Great stuff.
Just before the buldge/lip you get hands, and then an abrupt fist right
at the lip, pull the lip - seems easy then, don't blow it - and its over.
the "Hillside Strangler" .11+ kick ass cool IMO. Epi, fairlly reserved told
me he honestly thought it was, at that time, the hardest thing he knew of
in SD. He didn't hand that sh*t out like candy, and I remember thinkng
to myself "dude, don't let it go to your head because you know all three
of those guys are - in fact - much better climbers than you". And that was/
is true. Climbs like that are sort of like a "trick" or something, and my size
may have helped. Way fun tho.
Not sure if Jeff did it or if they all got shut down.
BTW, Hudon is right, it IS footwork. Really is. You gotta "over emphasise"
and good phukking luck setting 1 1/8" jams in a near roof if you cannot
lock in with the feet strongly and basically kinda "cantalever" the upper
body inward - along with subtle, tiny, deadpoint moves.
Learned that from watching Watusi climb; really, kind of a master
in my book.
Cool day, good fun - the beautiful onshore breeze flowing, sun shining,
68 degree mid January - just another day in the hills with my buds.
We were so, so fortunate.
It was such a blast.
The power, energy, and insane single-mindedness of youth.
Nothing, absolutly nothing in this world like it.
anyway...
have fun
climb safe
Ray
:-)
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
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Great stuff Ray...If you didn't know, I did the Paramedic thing for nearly 17 years so what you shared was tame, yet, I understand now what you must be going through. Back problems can be the worst for it provides your central support for your body and it can be completely debilitating! Take it slow and take care of yourself.
On a different note, as well as sharing "spray", I thought I'd also start a "What Other Paths Did Life Take You" over the years since the good ol' days of climbing?
On that note here's a copy/paste from my blog:
"I, now forty seven years of age, was raised in the civilian world until the age of thirty six, two month's before my thirty seventh birthday, the cut-off age for the Reserves then, when I stepped into a Navy recruiter's office and offered my services as a civilian Paramedic.
Since the age of seventeen, when my high school football field was invaded by all the branches of the armed forces, each branch having set up their own recruitment tent in preparation to fill their quotas, my thought of becoming a Navy SEAL had surfaced. I never took the bait back then but the desire to "do my part" in the United States Armed Services followed me. I wanted to be able to say, "I know where you're coming from" when in conversation with a service member. I was in a bit of need for a job and support at that time in my life and word had it that the Service was incorporating civilian experience into the military.
One morning, while having breakfast with a Navy recruiter who was nearly half my age, I was offered a part-time enlisted position as a Navy Corpsman in the Ready Reserves which I accepted with a signature on the dotted line. The next day I was officially sworn in down at the 32nd Street Naval Air Station, San Diego, California. Yes, it was a crash course into the Navy but in the eight years that I served I learned a bit more about the services that protect my country."
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
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This inevitably landed me in Iraq at the end of August of '04. I spent the next seven month's over there with a Marine unit out of Texas as one of their Corpsman. Of course, I couldn't give up climbing, so other than having my Climbing Magazine subscription transfered over there I found a cement wall were I created a traverse wall with "glue up" holds that consisted of natural Euphrates River rock and plastic gym holds that I had given to me from another military member who had done the same thing but passed them on to me before he returned home from his deployment. I guess word traveled for I had never met the guy before nor was he part of our group. He showed up one day with a box of holds!
Here's a couple of pictures from rc.com:
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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thank you Illusiondweller -
neat pix from your blog and
everything.
looks like the Woodsonian thing
will hopefully become an annual
and maybe even regular deal.
Looks to be a killer turn-out.
say, one question - do you recall
where at Mt. Woodson the boulder
problem named "Pit Bull" is? And,
basically what kind of climb it is?
I think they pinned the FA on me,
and its flat-out pitiful I can't remember.
BUT, the main reason I ask is, maybe
that info will jog my mind to cough
up some more memories and stuff.
thanks again.
Ray
Oh, BTW - iin terms of injuries, I got a buddy
who was totaled big time, they put him back
together and - it took a while - but darned if
he isn't climbing and leading really well again
AT AGE 52.
so - am hopeful; more later.
:-)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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hey ray --
"pit bull" is on a boulder located on the crest of the hill above "hear my train" -- a steep, southwest-facing face climb on some pretty small holds. rick allenby did the f.a. think they called it 5.12.
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