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LAP
Boulder climber
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What? What did I miss? And when did I become finance minister, while you're at it?
DMT
Steve Schneider
Kurt Smith
Bill Russell
I posted these names. Then received an email from an "in the know" source who said I had 2 right and that Kurt Smith was not involved. Followed by Pete posting that there were 2 shitters, and one who "stewed" on the ropes.
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FreeClimberDude
Trad climber
CA
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Isnt this how schneider got his nick name? From his girlriend mimi? Shipoopi
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Is there a link for the article online?
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Not even close. Steve was given that nickname for spraying so hard about his new route(s) on Medlicott. Attracted a whole bunch of bosch-weilding goons, and apparently, the noise of several hammerdrills and yelling,etc forced the NPS to finally act by banning powerdrills whereas previously they'd been turning a blind eye.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Maybe there is a free route on the Great Slab.
So where is the video? Probably be crap looking at the pics. Interviews in videos blow.
So the shitters and sh#t heads have been outted.
Schneider
Cosgrove
Smith
Braun
SG
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Coz- Who cares? Steve won't even release a topo for Turning Point or answer a simple question. He's never even climbed the route.
No one else seems interested in aiding it so.... FREE THAT SUCKER!
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I give M Tucker a big wet sloppy base jumper kiss.
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LAP
Boulder climber
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Funny how many members are willing to out the shitters by way of private emails.
Steve Schneider
Pete Chesco
Bill Russell
Stewer? I'd guess S, Schneider.
Sorry K Smith, it appears that you were not a part of this.
Coz quote.
LAP,
You dumb ass!
Anyone else find this funny?
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Takes on to know one. That is why it is funny.
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LAP
Boulder climber
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Takes on to know one. That is why it is funny.
Wow, a brain trust.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Oct 10, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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coz wrote:
Ammon and Kate,
Report A3+, meaning certain death and way freaking scary.
obviously A3+ is never certain death, so was this line meant to have been ironic? just curious.
so i grazed the R&I article today but only had a few minutes, so i looked for the meat and may have missed a little bit. i caught that ammon talked about the technical hooking and frequent fall potential, but also the general lack of real danger, so on that level i am kinda unsure where the ratings come from, and i suppose i also think ammon was a little unsure of the ratings himself, but was not wanting to down rate the rig so much as to add to the controversy in doing so.
thoughts?
i wonder if the pirate himself will be willing to discuss the actual decision(s) about giving a specific rating to various parts? (maybe later, after the movie? or maybe sooner? we'll see.
also-
ammon wrote in his article about some drilled bathook holes, 30 or so, which he said the FA party had claimed were not theirs, but he said that he was unable to ascend without using them...
obviously, with all the earlier discussion of hole counts, and the FA team claiming to be above board on the hole count, it might be useful if anyone can add some clarity to that part of the article?
in which sections did ammon find the drilled bathook holes that he could not ascend without?
and will richard and mark state clearly if they did or did not drill those?
where else might they have come from?
and if they were not fro the FA, how did those guys climb what ammon couldn't?
EDIT-
one the one hand, the whole issue of the climb and it's history can perhaps now kinda go away with no real end point, and i suppose that's my prediction...
but on the other hand-
for those who have more or less followed along for awhile-
the question of what are apparently unclaimed bathook ladders is a pretty big question!
are we to believe that the FA party somehow hooked their way up a section (or sections) that ammon mcneely could not climb? and that in the interim, another party that also simply could not climb the section(s), added a series of new drilled holes to ascend, only to then decide they were uncommitted to the 2nd ascent and bail, and decided to keep their desecration of WoS in it's original form to themselves?
maybe i have understood this question all wrong, but isn't it basically a case of either A or B, A being the above scenario, and B being that the FA team were otherwise meticulous about recording and reporting their (non-crystal-scraping) hole count and then omitted these, and intentionally so?
even where other people have drilled bathook ladders on other routes and reported it as such, they have generally reported it, so in this case it would in fact be the unreported bathook ladders that have long been speculated about and denied, and in spans where ammon could not ascend without them- isn't that more or less exactly what certain people have accused them of?
if anyone can clarify for me what i am missing, i'll be in your debt.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 10, 2011 - 12:08am PT
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thoughts? ^^^
He rated it A3+ and that's what it was for him.
To someone else it might be easier or harder or the same.
Who knows?
Only you will know when you enter the - that "zone" .....
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Oct 10, 2011 - 12:20am PT
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fair enough, it's just that the rating system as i understand it does not really go on what the stress level of the climber is, but what the danger from falling would be, so that's what makes rating a hooks on slab pitch unusual, as if it really does not fit the system well- or that was my take on the article, anyway.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 10, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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if it really does not fit the system well
Which may artfully describe WoS. It seems sui generis - one of a kind.
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icaro
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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I agree with Werner here... ratings are somewhat subjective due to various factors, and are definitely not that important to the actually experience of climbing. climbing speaks for itself... go out there and do it!
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Oct 10, 2011 - 02:02am PT
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This thread suddenly got boring.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Oct 10, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
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Thanks for the break down Coz. That being said aid ratings are more or less about the "Hurt Factor" and not about skill? So a 100 footer on a bolt on Zodiac would be A2 if the fall was into clean air?
Is there a consensus of what is the hardest ElCap aid line? That gets done?
Prod.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Oct 10, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
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Does the article answer any questions or just fan the flames?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!