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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 14, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
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It is inconsistent to give the OK for bolts placed top down on El Cap and then throw a fit about it on HD.
Base104, I'm still waiting to hear which routes on El Cap were drilled Top Down?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2014 - 02:25pm PT
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Luke,
So you guys freed the tension traverse at the end of the arch? Looks like P13 on the pitch above. Nice work!!
I'm pretty sure she meant p13 was the one which was "just about free".
p14 already went free at 5.10c.
P.S. Thanks for the report, Katie.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jan 14, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
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Just wondering if it would be fun/worthwhile to give the route a go at 5.12a A0
Yes you could, and it would be highly worthwhile to do so. In fact, you could do it at like 5.9 AO if you really wanted to.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 21, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Base104, I'm still waiting to hear which routes on El Cap were drilled Top Down?
I assume that the free variation to the last pitch of the Nose was drilled top down. There certainly isn't an aid pitch there. There are no stances, either.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 21, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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OMGHAHAHAHHHHHAHAHAHAHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAA THAT CAYLOR VIDEO IS WORTH THE PRICE OF ADMISSION X10 LOLOLOLOL!!!!!
THANKS FOR THAT VITALY! WHOMEVER PUT THAT TOGETHER, YOU RULE!!!! OH MY LORD!!!
HAHAHAHAHA
Please don't ever let my children watch that. They'll get "ideas"....haha!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 21, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
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In fact, you could do it at like 5.9 AO if you really wanted to.
I saw that - I'm game. Is there a sign at the top of the rap route?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 21, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
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The other crack on the same arch was successfully linked with a face climb above, and to the summit (Southern Belle).
That crack was FAed separately by someone else, then came the FA of the whole route, and finaly the FFA.
It was bad judgement on the part of the GU team to think that lightning would strike twice - and the westerly crack would just magically transition to face moves, and summit glory.
The simple fact that DR stepped back from his association with the route, his footage and or writing(?) of it speaks volumes.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Jan 22, 2014 - 12:27am PT
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The Hank Caylor video on the previous page is the absolute best thing in this thread!
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!